Memorial and buses aside, the Victory Monument area is best known for its many food stalls, all within walking distance from the BTS.

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1.) Toi Gway Tiew Reua

Ratchawithi Soi 18, behind Wat Makok, 081-619-1925, 087-045-0073. Open 8:30am-5:30pm
At the very end of Ratchawithi Soi 18, there is a temple and a canal, next to which you’ll find this large restaurant selling boat noodles. Toi Gway Tiew Reua has been in operation for some 50 years, dating back to when boat noodles were actually still sold on boats for 50 satang. The menu includes namtok and tom yam broths, but the owner recommends the namtok moo (pork boat noodles). All are just B15 per bowl or B30 if you want to take them away in a bag. The soup of the namtok is rich and tasty with no need for flavoring. The restaurant is bustling at noon on weekdays, with customers ranging from office workers to doctors and nurses from the nearby Rajavithi Hospital, so plan accordingly.

2.) Kao Moo Daeng Pathom Lert Rod

Opposite Top Charoen eyeglasses shop, end of Soi Rangnam, 02-246-5482, 089-115-1012. Open 8.30am-2.30pm
This little stall is famous on this soi for its khao moo daeng (rice topped with roasted pork, crispy pork, Chinese sausage, hard boiled egg and gravy). Just make sure you get here early though, as they almost always sell out well in advance of their scheduled closing time. The gravy here is not a plain sweet sauce like other stalls—it’s a bit more complex and tastes slightly spicy. The stall also offers krapaw pla (fish maw soup) as a side dish. Everything is B35.

3.) Kanom Wan Rangnam

Outside Top Charoen eyeglasses shop, end of Soi Rangnam, 086-668-6925. Open Tue-Sun 7am-4pm
On Soi Rangnam, this is the go to place for Thai desserts. It’s been in this spot for almost 30 years and many loyal customers are willing to travel across town to buy some desserts to take home. There are many choices, but the owner and customers recommend the khao nieow moon (sweet sticky rice), which can be topped with durian, egg custard or mango. Other desserts include ruam mitr, bua loy (sweet noodles and balls in coconut milk), tua paep (steamed crepe with beans), and kanom mor gaeng (steamed cake). Everything here is B15-B20.

4.) Khao Man Gai Jae Wa

465/7 Ratchathewi Rd., Phaya Thai, opposite Center One, 02-640-9891. Open 9am-9pm
The khao man gai (Hainanese chicken rice) at Jae Wa restaurant has been around for only 15 years (a relative newbie in these parts), but there are already numerous press clippings hung on the wall including a page from a Japanese magazine and a Perb-Pisadarn certificate from the famous critic Mae Choy Nang Ram. One full dish comes with khao man gai and offal such as blood jelly and liver. The chicken meat is soft, the steamed rice is not too oily or sticky, and the sweet chili sauce isn’t too spicy. A regular dish is B35, while the special one is B50.

5.) Gway Jaab Nam Sai

Soi Rangnam, beside Sri Ayuthaya School, 02-642-5531. Open Mon-Sat 7am-5pm
This gway-jaab nam sai (noodles in broth) restaurant has been around for over 10 years. The gway jaab soup has a peppery spiciness and a rich garlicky aroma. Not for the faint of heart, a full order of gway jaab here includes pork maw, entrails, liver, heart, tongue, crispy pork and pork pieces. Unlike other places, the taste of the pork is sweetened by some pre-marinating. Each bowl is B35.

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With the closure of Tanjong Pagar Railway Station and much of Singapore’s railway line imminent, Kurt Ganapathy tells you how to experience it all one last time.

When the Ekspres Senandung Sutera cuts through the Singapore night at 10pm on June 30, an era will draw to a close. Since 1932, Tanjung Pagar (as it’s spelled on Malaysian signage) has been the southern terminus of the Keretapi Tanah Melayu (KTM) system. The station and the strip of land leading to Johor belonged to Malaysia, a fact which has helped create a verdant, heritage-rich sliver in contrast to the world of concrete and steel that rose up around it. That may change now that the land is being handed over to Singapore. It is satisfying to know that the station will be conserved but this is your last chance to see it bustling as it did for eight decades—besides, the Green Corridor along the track may disappear altogether. If you care about Singapore’s history, enjoy good food or just love nature, here’s what you should be doing this week.

Take One Final Ride

While the railway used to be Singapore’s most important artery, it was forgotten for many years; recalled only with a laugh and a comment about outdated transport. That isn’t the case now and there is a mad rush among Singaporeans to get their hands on remaining train tickets. It isn’t too late for that last ride though; tickets to JB Sentral and other nearby stations like Kulai and Kluang can only be purchased at the Tanjong Pagar ticket counter 24 hours in advance. Your best chance is the daily 7:15am shuttle service, with sales opening at 6am. It’s possible to complete a return trip in around three hours. As you might imagine, longer rides to Kuala Lumpur and Butterworth are almost completely sold out, but you can try your luck in person at the station, on the KTM website (www.ktmb.com.my) or by calling KTM’s ticket booking hotline (+60 (3) 2267-1200).

Enjoy a Last Supper

Some of our fondest recollections about Tanjong Pagar Railway Station involve food and the loss of the stalls there will be keenly felt by late-night diners. If tickets are hard to come by, or you simply don’t have time to travel across the Causeway, a table is waiting for you at M. Hasan Railway Station Canteen and M. Hasan 2 Railway Food Station, local favorites since 1976. M. Hasan 2 is inside the main building and its stalls include Island Power Food, Haqqani King Prata, Noor Muslim Food, Oasis Rojak and Hikmah Ramly Burgers. M. Hasan is right by the arrival track and it’s home to Bambai Seafood, Belkis Chicken Rice and the simply-named Nasi Lemak Panas (Hot).

Walk the Green Corridor

More than 3,000 people have already thrown their weight behind “We support The Green Corridor in Singapore” (www.facebook.com/thegreencorridor). Set up by Eugene Tay, founder of environmental consultancy firm Green Future Solutions, the page is aligned with the Nature Society (Singapore) proposal to preserve the tract of Railway Land. He believes that the Corridor, with its historic landmarks and flourishing ecosystem, has immeasurable value to Singaporeans. “The Green Corridor will strengthen our shared memories by preserving our past while creating opportunities for education and discovery,” says Tay. “When we talk about our shared memories, it brings smiles, and brings us closer together, knowing we have experienced the same history.” Tay is organizing morning walks along the Corridor this weekend (Bukit Timah Railway Station to Holland Road on Jun 25 and Rail Mall to Choa Chu Kang on Jun 26; both start at 8am).

For more information, visit www.thegreencorridor.org and “like” the Green Corridor page on Facebook.

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Travel to the end of the line for these top stalls around Hua Lampong—even if you don’t have to catch a train.

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1. Laap Paak

1 Rong Muang Road, Gate 3 MRT Hua Lamphong, 02-613-9661. Open 10:30am–9pm.
If you’re going to cheat on your diet regime, then Laap Paak, with its cozy backyard-style atmosphere, situated just outside Exit 3 of MRT Hua Lamphong has just the dish to make it worthwhile: goong grabuang. A mince of chicken and shrimp deep-fried to a thick, crunchy pancake, the version at Laap Paak does an even more sinful mayo garnish, along with a bed of crispy-fried bai makrood (B95). They also do a hearty tom saep gradook moo (isaan-style pork rip spicy soup, B99), that is a great complement.

2.Sawang

336/3 Rama IV Rd., 02-236-1772. MRT Hua Lamphong. There are also branches in Emporium and Siam Paragon. Open Tue–Sun 5-11pm.
Ignore the Hong Kong Noodles sign outside MRT Hua Lamphong Exit 3, and walk across the street to the more unassuming, family-run and pretty famous noodle shop. You’ll know you’re at the right place because Sawang is always packed with people waiting for their freshly pulled noodles drenched in a delicious broth that’s not too sweet and not too sour (B100). If you’re feeling extra hungry, get them to throw in some fresh crab for an added B100. They also specialize in Cantonese delights like kanom jeeb. There are other branches now, but the Hua Lamphong location is where it all started.

3. Cheng Simey

Noi Market on Khao Lam Rd., 081-620-1788. Open 7pm–11pm.
Down Khao Lam Road, opposite Wat Tri Mitr Witthayaram, is a street vendor that serves 10 different kinds of ruam mitt nam gatthi—another family-run business that keeps Hua Lamphong foodies happy. The classic myriad beans, water chestnuts and gelatins in all shapes and colors go for B35 a bowl—cheap enough to try out a couple different flavors in one sitting.

4. Supakochana

Gate 3 MRT Hua Lamphong, 1 Rong Muang Rd. Open daily 24hrs.
If you’re just hungry for some simple Thai dishes you could find on your soi, like som tam and khao pad, check out this small tam sang place that serves all the essentials. Their kapow gai is a local favorite (spicy stir-fried chicken with basil, B39). The small restaurant is perfect for a quick fix if you’re stuck waiting for a train, but don’t go out of your way to eat here.

5. Pa Lek Pa Yai

Maitri Chit Rd., Wongwien 22, 303. 084-935-2935. Open daily 9am–8pm, during Feb-Jul.
Named after two aunties, this little shop has been in the mango biz for 72 years. Their kao niew mamuang (B70-B80 depending on the price of mangoes) is worth the trek if you’re feeling adventurous. Take a walk across the green bridge to the left of Exit 1 of MRT Hua Lamphong and walk down Maitri Chit until you hit a roundabout. The little shop is on the left, but unfortunately it’s only open during the mango season, from February until the beginning of July, so you better go today.

6. Simalogot

80-82 Soi Sukon 1. 081-567-9006. Open Daily 9am–8pm.
Another family-run business that serves one thing and one thing only: bountiful plates of juicy pork, smothered in a delicious pork sauce (B42). Cross the magical green bridge (see above), hang a left and look out for Soi Sukon 1. Walk down the soi for a little bit and try to resist the temptation of the other stalls on this street.

7.Chong Gee

Soi Sukon 1. Open daily 9am–8 pm.
If you’re feeling extra carnivorous, the store right beside Simalogot serves pork and liver satay. What’s the difference between these and the sticks you can get anywhere else? Their dipping sauce is a cultural hybrid, they say, a combination of Thai and Chinese flavors, with lots of peanuts (B60 for 10 sticks).

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Navigate the busy sois and narrow walkways by Siriraj Hospital for some of the best street food our city has to offer. By Aimmarin Siritantitam and Sasinipa Wasantapruek

Across the Chao Phraya River next to Siriraj Hospital, Wang Lang is well-known for its many little sois cramped with shops and stalls. It’s also famous for its sheer density of food stalls, extremely popular among locals and students from Thammasat’s Tha Prachan campus. Here we round up our favorites.

1. Namtok Sida

112/5-6 Soi Wang Lang, Arun Amarin Rd., 02-412-7180. Open 9am-7pm
In operation for some 40 years now, this little Isaan restaurant is a team effort between an older uncle, who waits tables, and an auntie who makes somtam at a station near the front. The specialties here are the tender and flavorful grilled chicken (B90 for half, B180 for whole) and the sueah rong hai (strips of grilled beef brisket, B50). Other Isaan classics are also very good here, such as the grilled pork neck and the somtam (both B50). Be warned that Namtok Sida packs in the customers, particularly around lunchtime and on the weekend.

2. Tee Yai

Behind Wiwatpesad Pharmacy, Soi Wang Lang, 02-411-0275, 081-344-5842. Open 8am-7pm
Walk past the Family Mart on your right and keep walking down this narrow alley until you see a couple of red signs signalling you’re at Tee Yai. This pad Thai and hoi thod place has been around since 1967. The hoi thod (fried oysters with egg, B45) has just the right texture—crispy-edged and not too gooey, not too oily. Tee Yai is also known for its pad Thai. The fresh shrimp pad Thai (B45) has a great flavor of tamarind and a nice, not-too-soft texture of noodles, even though it’s only topped with two fresh shrimps.

3. POh Pia Sod Jao Kao Siriraj

Soi Wang Lang, Prannok Rd. 087-084-5510. Open Mon-Sat 6am-4pm
Literally 10 steps from Tee Yai, further into the alleyway, to the left of KFC, is a stall with a green sign selling poh pia sod. The stall, comprised of three tables, is over 30 years old—hence the name “Poh Pia Sod Jao Kao Siriraj” which translates into “Old Fresh Spring Rolls of Siriraj.” The rolls (B30) are stuffed with Chinese sausage, tofu, bean sprouts, and cucumber. It is served with a sweet and sour brown sauce made of Japanese apricot and topped with crabmeat and egg. It tastes even better with the prik nam som (chili and vinegar) provided.

4. Moo Tod Chao Wang

Opposite Siriraj Hospital, in front of TMB bank. 085-351-4777, 087-594-2466. Open Mon-Sat 9am-6pm
What is most noticeable about the Moo-tod Chao Wang stall is not the big sign posted in front, it is the large, jovial owner’s voice persuading passersby to try out the moo tod. In a nice twist from the usual crispy skewered options, this comes with a savory, full-flavored sauce slathered onto the soft pieces of pork. The owner says the secret to the good taste is the fact that he changes the cooking oil daily. B35 per 100g.

5. Wang Lang Bakery

113 Soi Wang Lang Plaza, Arun Amarin Rd., 02-866-1649. Open 8am-7pm
Known for its many flavors of bread, Wang Lang Bakery has a loyal following of customers who buy in bulk to take home. Out front, below the huge sign bearing the shop’s name, there are rows of bread with different toppings and fillings stacked on top of each other. Beyond that is a mini factory where staff are busy baking away. The bestsellers are the moo yong (dried shredded pork) bread and the raisin bread. The bread itself is sweet and super soft. Each loaf is B40.

6. Kanom Tung-taek Patim

Opposite Siriraj Hospital, in front of Kasikorn Bank, 085-937-1193, 085-110-0467. Open Mon-Sun 9am-8pm
The queue of buyers gathered around the stall makes it hard to miss. They are not only buying because of the reasonable price (B7-10 per piece), but also for the fantastic taste of the old-school tung taek (crepe pancake with filling). The fillings available are coconut, corn, foi thong (sweet egg yolk threads), steamed custard, and raisin, with foi thong being the most popular.

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We love Haji Lane for their shishas, retail and restaurants. But we love their alternative offering even more. We pick the best few.

Entangled Affair
28 Haji Lane, 9028-7439.

Get yourself a brand new do with cornrows and dreadlocks at this two-month-old hair parlor.

Knockout Gear
64 Haji Lane, 6297-7422.

A great store for fight club fanatics, with its range of Muay Thai and MMA equipment and apparel.

Tokyobike
38 Haji Lane, 9856-3559.

Less than a week old, Tokyobike specializes in compact, stylish city bikes from Japan.

Visual Orgasm
2 Haji Lane, 6396-4947.

Up your badass factor with nipple piercings or newly-inked tatts.

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Not just a haven for SIA uniform knock-offs and "Singapore is a 'fine' city" tees, Singapore's Chinatown is fast-becoming a foodie favorite, with restaurants from all corners of the globe.

For Indian food: Zaffran Restaurant and Tea Room

Injected with an energetic yet casual vibe, Zaffran specializes in palatable Indian fusion cuisine prepared with the freshest of ingredients. Order the Javan chicken masala and squid curry.

For Italian food: Senso Ristorante & Bar

After 10 years, Senso still delivers a pleasant dining experience. They’ve got their own version of the Sunday brunch, and on weekends for dinner they’re still packed both inside and in the courtyard. The service is impeccable and the food is also a joy.

For French food: Restaurant Andre

Expect an intimate space in a three-storey shophouse that seats 30 in chef André Chiang’s highly-anticipated restaurant. With two prix fixe menus for both lunch and dinner, chef Chiang’s focus on fresh artisanal produce is showcased in exquisite dishes that reflect his roots in Southern French nouvelle cuisine.

For Korean food: Manbok Korean Seafood Restaurant

A great little Korean restaurant with friendly service (all too rare here). We fancy their seafood soup and their seafood pancake with leeks, prawns and octopus. This is one of the best and most interesting options for Korean food in the city.

For Spanish food: Sabio Tapas Bar & Restaurant

Open since April, this Spanish restaurant is fast becoming one of Duxton’s busiest. Striking décor aside, Sabio is an ideal spot for some sangrias and a mix of delicious tapas (be sure to have some jamón ibérico de bellota).

For American food: Luke's Oyster Bar & Chop House

Luke's Oyster Bar & Chop House is classy yet relaxed, with the ambiance channeling a chic brasserie, while the food is inspired by comforting American classics. Don't miss the clam chowder.

For Russian food: Buyan Russian Haute Cuisine & Caviar Bar

There aren’t many Russian establishments in town, and this is a stellar example. While the food isn’t for everyone, the bar is impressive and armed with over 50 different types of vodka.

For Peranakan food: The Blue Ginger

Around for 15 years, this is undisputedly one of Singapore’s best Peranakan restaurants. While the menu here is reworked every six months, popular standards such as beef rending, ikan assam gulai (fish tamarind curry), ngo hiang (spring rolls) and kueh pie tee (popiah vol-au-vents) keep the crowds coming back.

For German food: Magma German Wine Bistro

Decorated in red and white, this casual open-kitchen restaurant serves up traditional hearty German food and is one of the few places in town where you can get authentic Berlin-style pork knuckles, not to mention hand minced beef tartare, and flammkuchen (crispy German pizza with sour cream and various toppings). There’s also an attached deli and shop selling German goodies.

For Thai food: Thanying Restaurant

This excellent dining institution might not be the cheapest for Thai food but it’s certainly one of the best. The décor is charmingly dated and the service is quick. We recommend the sweet and spicy mango salad, panang chicken curry, pad Thai and kangkong with chili paste.


More restaurants in Chinatown

More restaurants in Club Street

More restaurants in Tanjong Pagar

More restaurants in Raffles Place

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From its rich historical value to its modern flavors, experience the magic of Chinatown right in the palm of your hands from our pull-out guide.

CI YAN ORGANIC VEGETARIAN HEALTH RESTAURANT
Customers refer to this as the “Tibetan Place.” The Buddha statues, books and scriptures collected from travels give this humble eatery an inspiring ethnic vibe. Try the brown rice set meal and the green curry hor fun while you’re here.

CUPPA CHOICE
Large fancy‑looking coffee machines are sold at this young café‑barista academy (it’s under two‑years‑old)— great news for coffee afi cionados. The barista classes are conducted from 9am‑6pm, which are also the opening hours of the café. Other than coffee, bites such as pizzas are on the menu.

THE INN AT TEMPLE STREET
Occupying fi ve restored shophouses, The Inn is a boutique hotel rich in heritage. The area, once occupied by Straits Chinese trading houses, lends the hotel inspiration in its design.

LAN ZHOU LA MIAN
The main man in the store is the noodle chef, who is also the restaurant’s owner. Their signature minced pork with bean sauce noodle is defi nitely worth a try. The pan‑fried dumplings and handmade tofu—so crispy on the outside and soft on the inside—left us wanting more.

MEI HEONG YUEN DESSERT

While this Chinese dessert joint has a variety of typical desserts such as steamed egg custard (with or without ginger juice), glutinous rice balls and sweet potato soup, it is their Taiwanese ice dessert that we adore.

SERENDIPITY PATISSERIE
This stall might occupy a minimal area but it serves goodies galore. The good variety of generously‑sized muffi ns they offer is nothing short of tantalizing.

SIA HUAT PTE LTD
This is the shop that chefs and restaurants hit for all their tools of the trade. You’ll fi nd everything from pasta‑making machines and kitchen utensils, to an array of glassware and pots and pans.

YUM CHA CHINATOWN
Not a weekend goes by that doesn’t see this popular restaurant packing in the crowds. With a name like this, you don’t need a degree in rocket science to guess what it specializes in. Suffi ce it to say that there is plenty of variety here, including traditional standards such as steamed barbecue pork buns and modern variants like its mini goose liver xiao long bao.

YUMMY VIET
The décor of this eatery may be a little bland, however their food is anything but. The spicy beef pho has just the right amount of spiciness with a rather generous amount of beef slices in its aromatic beef stock. For light snacks, order the summer rolls or spring rolls.

More of Chinatown:
Amoy / Boon Tat / Robinson / Stanley / Telok Ayer
Duxton / Gopeng / Hoe Chiang / Tanjong Pagar / Teck Lim
Ann Siang / Club / Erskine / Maxwell
Bukit Pasoh / Keong Saik / Kreta Ayer

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From its rich historical value to its modern flavors, experience the magic of Chinatown right in the palm of your hands from our pull-out guide.

ABSINTHE RESTAURANT FRANCAIS
This restaurant has charm in spades and delivers superbly on all fronts. We suggest you start with the fresh oysters and follow that up with either the robust bouillabaisse or spectacular rack of kurobuta pork.

BOOKS CELLAR

With Stephen King and a pool table in one place, this is where you can get intoxicated with alcohol, the wonders of a book, or both. Limited‑edition and autographed collectibles, as well as browsing copies (bookmarks provided) are noteworthy. If you feel peckish while reading, Mom’s Favourite Apple Crumble ($4.50) will fi ll the void.

DESTINATION WINE AND DINE
A cozy space greets you with the aroma of superior wines from France, Italy and Chile, just to name a few. Choose from 42 labels for a buy‑2‑get‑1‑free promotion. You can get plenty of recommendations from the boss—he’s a wine lover himself. You can also opt for some steak or pasta to go with the wines.

DONOMA
Simply put, Donoma’s cuisine is urban American featuring salads and sandwiches ($12–20) including Waldorf and Caesar “Cardini.” We say go for the hearty New Orleans blackened shrimp ($28).

DRINK CULTURE
A combination of bistro and cocktail bar, white and silver with dashes of black are the dominant shades of the interior, giving it a posh vibe. While prices are slightly above average, the drinks are certainly worth it. Its cocktail recipes are near magical.

EIGHT CAFÉ AND BAR
Disco balls and fancy lights are among our favorite in this joint. Featuring an alfresco section open after dusk only, the retro‑themed café serves highly affordable Asian and Western dishes.

HOTEL 1929
The original boutique hotel from Loh Lik Peng, who is also the man behind the New Majestic Hotel nearby, is still the one to beat with 32 individually designed rooms decked in a mix of classic designer and retro vintage furniture, and one of the most affordable in the city (room rates start at $159).

MAGMA GERMAN WINE BISTRO, DELI & SHOP
Decorated in red and white, this casual open‑kitchen restaurant serves up traditional hearty German food and is one of the few places in town where you can get authentic Berlin‑style pork knuckles, hand‑minced beef tartare, and fl ammkuchen (crispy German pizza with sour cream and various toppings).

MAJESTIC RESTAURANT

Few Chinese restaurants are hip, but this one defi nitely is. Dishes like crispy wasabi prawn, Peking duck and grilled rack of lamb in Chinese honey continue to pull in fashionable crowds.

NEW MAJESTIC HOTEL
As a tribute to the trishaw pullers of the past, a patchwork old‑school trishaw is displayed in the lobby. It never gets boring because the boutique hotel is an eclectic blend of Chinese oriental styles, pop art, Zen and minimalism.

NICOLAS LE RESTAURANT
Chef‑owner Nicolas Joanny’s eponymous eatery is housed in a restored shophouse on this street. He and his small team serve up memorable multi‑course meals for lunch and dinner.

OSO RISTORANTE
Italian fi ne dining features on the extensive menu, along with the restaurant’s climate‑controlled cheese and wine rooms. Try everything: The menu is changed monthly, and comprises fabulous dishes such as the freshly shaved cold cuts; rigatoni with rabbit; and rack of lamb, which is baked for eight hours.

RESTAURANT ANDRE
An intimate space in a three‑story shophouse. With two prix fi xe menus for lunch and dinner, chef André Chiang’s focus on fresh artisanal produce is showcased in exquisite dishes that refl ect his roots in Southern French nouvelle cuisine.

RESTAURANT EMBER
It is fitting that one of Singapore’s hippest European restaurants is situated within one of our hippest boutique hotels. The marinated cod with black miso is a winner. Desserts are equally praiseworthy; try the warm chocolate cake and thyme ice cream.

ROSE CITRON
This boutique‑in‑a‑shophouse is like a breath of fresh air. What you’ll find are bags designed with colorful fabrics and interesting motifs. Since everything is hand‑sewn, only a couple of pieces per design are produced.

TARATATA BISTROT
Head down for lunch at this bistro serving popular French cuisine. A three‑course lunch won’t burn a hole in your pocket since it’s only $32++. For mains, you have four options including grilled sausage of Toulouse and poached salmon.

THE SAFF HOTEL

Characterized by Asian‑Middle Eastern‑style furnishings, this six‑month‑old hotel will appeal to those who fancy contemporary and understated style. Free WiFi is available in its 79 rooms.

More of Chinatown:
Amoy / Boon Tat / Robinson / Stanley / Telok Ayer
Duxton / Gopeng / Hoe Chiang / Tanjong Pagar / Teck Lim
Ann Siang / Club / Erskine / Maxwell
Smith / Temple / Trengganu

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From its rich historical value to its modern flavors, experience the magic of Chinatown right in the palm of your hands from our pull-out guide.

ARTERY
This richly‑colored lounge bar makes a good venue for both casual gatherings among friends and smart corporate events. On weeknights, lounge music is played. But on Thursday and Friday, get ready for awesome house music to welcome the weekend.

ASYLUM
Look out for hip French collective Surface to Air’s trendy mens and womenswear alongside edgier T‑shirts from Aussie brand Chronicles of Never. There are at least 15 brands stocked here, including Lyle and Scott, Tuesday Night Band Practice and Nakkna—a must for creative types looking for their fashion fix.

BARRIO CHINO
This is a hotspot for people-watching on Club Street. Sit back, relax with a drink in hand and enjoy the Latin beats.

BEAUJOLAIS WINE BAR
With smiling wait staff and tables draped in chequered linen, a rendezvous at this yellow shophouse is a quaint and romantic affair. The music is mostly jazz, blues and slow rock tunes, which adds to the dreamy atmosphere.

BOULEVARD
This is where yuppies congregate over pre‑dinner drinks and tapas. Boulevard has an outdoor island bar, which means the barkeep is always on‑hand to top up your martini while you chill in the courtyard.

BREEZE

This alfresco rooftop bar doubling up as a grill scores on ambiance. The food focuses on seafood and grilled items such as the Breeze platter (Portobello pizzetta; tuna bruschetta; garden fruits and blue mussels in spicy lemongrass coconut broth) and the oyster platter.

CLAY ABODE
Malaysian‑style clay pot rice is served here, with a twist. With dishes based on secret family recipes and slightly modified to create unique claypot fare, your trip will be a worthwhile one.

THE CLUB HOTEL
Designed and built by the Ministry of Design, guests are offered two room categories—Club and Signature. While Club is the standard room, Signature features a bigger space and aromatherapy facilities.

CUGINI RESTAURANT
This restaurant is known in the dining circuit for its hot Italian ownders besides the food. We say go for the black ravioli stuffed with lobster and roasted lamb chops with green pepper.

DA PAOLO IL RISTORANTE
All polished timber, stone statues and antique prints, this stylish Italian restaurant is still popular after all these years. There are tons of homemade pastas, seafood and meats to choose from, including the the spinach pasta with ham, mushrooms, and parmesan; and egg pasta with crabmeat, tomatoes, and vodka.

GEM BAR & LOUNGE
This little gem of a bar located on the corner of Ann Siang Hill has an elegant Victorian‑themed interior and high‑back armchairs, ottomans and even a faux fireplace. There’s a little alfresco area upfront where you can sit back and relax over an ice cold Stella Artois.

HQ KARAOKE AND BAR
The newly‑minted open concept karaoke and bar encourages social karaoke—a good thing too that the crowd consists mainly of models and celebrities. Sing your heart out while getting liquored up on Soju Oolong Tea, Mojitos and Apple Shooters. 13. ICHIDON RESTAURANT #01‑06 Maxwell Chambers, 32 Maxwell Rd., 6534‑8189. Disciple to six Japanese chefs, chef Jeffrey Choo definitely knows his stuff. Relocated from 6 Battery Road (previously called Six Restaurant) only in February this year, Ichidon is no newbie in the dining scene. Notable promotions include Donburi set meals ($7.90++) and buy 2‑get‑1 free set dinners.

K KI
With just four tables indoors, the space is indeed tiny, but that’s part of the appeal. The main draws here are the cakes such as the Antoinette (a white chocolate mousse with a mango center) and Little Red Riding Hood (dark chocolate mousse that conceals a tart raspberry center).

LE CARILLON DE L’ANGELUS
At this Parisian‑style wine bar on Ann Siang Hill, you can find an extensive list of premium wines and some great French fare.

LE CHOCOLAT CAFÉ
Located at the ground floor of The Club Hotel, the pastries and sandwiches here will certainly tantalize your taste buds. The Green Tea Opera Cake and Little Red Riding Hood are standouts.

THE LITTLE DRÖM STORE
Old memories come rushing back as you step in here: Tin toys, vintage fashion, retro knick knacks, old cameras, mini pots of glue from your old school bookshop and more. It also carries an eclectic range of illustration and photography books lovingly selected from all over the world.

OAKHAM MARKET
This is literally an underground vintage boutique. Green and white walls, parquet floors and neatly arranged racks of apparel bathed in warm lighting greet you at the bottom of two flights of stairs. The spacious layout of the store makes for a pleasant shopping experience, where items are conveniently sorted into three categories—Thrift, Premium and Vintage. All thrift goods are priced at a pocket‑friendly $16.95.

ONCE UPON A MILKSHAKE
It’s tough to find good milkshakes on our little island, so this is a real gem. They make ‘em just the way they’re meant to be: Thick as malt, and oh‑so‑creamy. Their Sir Cookies & Cream and Chocolate Truffle Castle are our picks. 20. OTTO RISTORANTE #01‑02 Red Dot Traffic Building, 28 Maxwell Rd., 6227‑6819. We dare say Otto is one of the swankiest restaurants in the area, what with the ambient lighting, plush seats and carpeting, and smooth piped‑in jazz music. The lard‑wrapped “asparagi,” soft egg with taleggio light fondue and osso buco with risotto are just some of the items you should try.

THE PATISSIER
It would be wrong to pass up on the Passion Fruit Meringue here—a generous serving of cubes of strawberry and mango, sandwiched between layers of crisp meringue and passion fruit‑flavored fresh cream.

PS CAFÉ
Nestled in a corner next to the entrance of Ann Siang Hill Park, this two‑story café serves up food for brunch, lunch, tea, dinner, desserts and booze. In the evenings, local DJs dish out smooth soul tunes to go with your food and drinks.

RED DOT DESIGN MUSEUM
This museum brings out the extraordinary in everyday things. The gift store and exhibitions are real eye‑openers, especially for aspiring designers and artists.

SAVANH BISTRO & LOUNGE

This establishment gives you a chill out lounge and a place to enjoy fusion‑influenced Indo‑Chinese fare. Think pink chandeliers, lounge‑y sofas, a koi pond and a three‑story waterfall—the place for you to wind down at after work.

THE SCARLET HOTEL
A personification of the warm and crowd‑loving hostess, this five‑star boutique hotel is as naughty as it’s sensual. Opt for any of the five themed suites (Lavish, Opulent, Passion, Splendour and Swank) specially designed to tease if you’re up for a hot and heavy night. A love hotel at its classiest.

SCREENING ROOM
This is one bright and modern bistro. The most unique aspect of this place is its film and food pairings, seeing the creation of set menus that complement whatever’s showing that week.

SENSO RISTORANTE & BAR
After 10 years, Senso still delivers a pleasant dining experience. They’ve got their own version of the Sunday brunch, and on weekends at dinnertime they’re still packed both indoors and in the courtyard. The food is a joy and the service is also impeccable.

SEVEN ON CLUB
Its prime corner location makes this elegant restaurant perfect for long meals and lazy coffees; you can’t go wrong with popular European standards such as lobster bisque; lobster angel hair pasta; roasted yorkshire pork rack; and chocolate fondue with vanilla ice cream.

SLING CONCEPTUAL DINING
At this two‑month old modern European eatery with no a la carte menu, Chef Tony Seah crafts a set menu that changes weekly, based on a philosophy that is focused on the freshest ingredients possible.

SPIZZA
Senso’s Spizza is Italian, right down to its wood‑fired oven, imported cheeses and olive oils. This flagship, with its rustic fittings, has some of the best thin‑crust pizzas in town.

STEVIE GENERAL STORE
This one‑year‑old collectibles store and fashion boutique is a treasure trove of arts and antiques, books, eyewear, lamps, tin toys, watches, silverware and every other item imaginable. The owners handpick all the stock themselves, sourced from all over the world including Japan, London and the US.

W WINE BAR
With its soft, soothing earth tones, clear glass and dark wood, W Wine Bar serves premium wines that go well with its chic and upmarket interior. An outstanding selection of over 200 vintage and non‑vintage wines are available here.

YING YANG
This rooftop bar has great service, amazing cocktails and a cool atmosphere. Decked out with extravagant furnishings such as wall to ceiling murals and lush couches, this hotel bar is definitely big on design.

ZAFFRAN RESTAURANT AND TEA ROOM
Injected with an energetic yet casual vibe, Zaffran specializes in palatable Indian fusion cuisine prepared with the freshest of ingredients. Order the Javan chicken masala and squid curry.

More in Chinatown:
Amoy / Boon Tat / Robinson / Stanley / Telok Ayer
Duxton / Gopeng / Hoe Chiang / Tanjong Pagar / Teck Lim
Bukit Pasoh / Keong Saik / Kreta Ayer
Smith / Temple / Trengganu

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From its rich historical value to its modern flavors, experience the magic of Chinatown right in the palm of your hands from our pull-out guide.

BISTRO SOORI
Helmed by chef Jimmy Chok, this 30‑seater establishment occupies an unassuming shophouse. The food here is understated in presentation, but not so in flavor, such as shaved foie gras snow over white wine jelly and apple compote, beef tenderloin with szechuan pepper sauce.

THE BLUE GINGER RESTAURANT
Around for 15 years, this is undisputedly one of Singapore’s best Peranakan restaurants. While the menu here is reworked every six months, popular standards such as beef rendang, ikan assam gulai (fish tamarind curry), ngo hiang (spring rolls) and kueh pie tee (popiah vol‑au‑vents) keep the crowds coming back.

BONHEUR PARISSERIE
A popular hideout for office ladies that provides wedding and birthday cake customization service, this four‑month‑old’s strawberry balsamic and light peach sakura are baked to impress.

BROTH

Long a haunt for fans of modern Aussie cuisine, BROTH (a.k.a. “bar restaurant on the hill”) continues to serve fab food out of its trendy conservation terraced house in Duxton. Set by a cobblestoned lane, this is one of the few restaurants where you can dine close to the street without traffic whizzing by and taxis pulling up.

BUKO NERO
Buko Nero’s beautiful fusion of Asian and Italian cuisine still sees diners making reservations up to a month in advance. It’s all because chef Oscar Pasinato and his wife Tracy have a truly divine à la carte menu with signatures like the porcini mushroom soup and the tau kwa tower. Meals are rather reasonably priced, too.

BUYAN RUSSIAN HAUTE CUISINE & CAVIAR BAR
There aren’t many Russian establishments in town, and this is a stellar example. While the food isn’t for everyone, the bar is impressive and armed with over 50 different types of vodka.

CAPRICCI
It’s always a good sign when the right ethnic types flock to a new ethnic restaurant. Massimo Aquaro and Pietro Aprigliano have gotten the look of the place right, and the affordable set lunch menu items are definitely a draw.

CELINA’S GASTROBAR
Complete with a selection of Japanese sakes, this wine and whisky bar and restaurant doesn’t disappoint. The laksa pasta here is a unique and well‑liked dish while the Sicilian meatballs make your mouth water.

DYMK (DOES YOUR MOTHER KNOW?) BAR & CAFE
For a little bit of kitsch and good fun, there’s DYMK—a boys’ favorite hangout (wink wink). There are many plush divans and couches to unwind on after a tough day’s work while quaffing its range of potent house specials like Mommie’s Temper, Mother Knows, Mother Doesn’t Know and Flower Power.

FABRIKA BY CHIVAS 18
Taking in exotic Morroco as inspiration, the lounge‑esque resort‑inspired décor here features lovely mosaic tables, white daybeds with cushions, jeweled candleholders and Bedouin‑like canopies. Noteworthy cocktails include Black Infinity, Chivas Sour and our favorite, Chivas Sling.

ELITE BICYCLES ASIA
For a bike tailored perfectly to you, head down to this sports store that sells bicycles from international brands like Wilier. It also provides after‑sale bike fits and mechanical services.

FLOR PÂTISSERIE

Fusing decades of Japanese baking techniques and careful research with exquisite French pastries, Flor takes sweet treats to a new realm. Cocoa Banaan, a banana swiss roll complete with dark chocolate meringue, strikes that bittersweet balance.

GREENS ON SCREENS
37 Duxton Rd., 6221‑1310

Newly opened in February, this indoor golfing center offers a virtual golfing experience realized by a high‑tech simulator, and some really good coffee to go with it.

L’ENTRECÔTE
A Parisian‑style steak and frites bistro that only offers one main course (who would have thought we’d go for that?). Sure, it’s a bit of a tight squeeze in the place, but we reckon the foie gras terrine, duck rillettes and waffles with salted caramel make it all worth it.

LITTERED WITH BOOKS
A cozy hideout for families and book buddies, this book store repositions its furniture weekly, so customers get a fresh browsing experience each time. Feel free to pick any corner and look through books with a complimentary cup of coffee, to which you may contribute a token of appreciation.

LUCAS
Does the food at Lucas live up to its painfully funky décor? Well, given that the quality of cooking can be uneven here, yes and no. If you want to play it safe, go for the crabmeat Caesar salad, Dijon and pistachio‑crusted lamb chops, and dark chocolate mousse.

MANBOK KOREAN SEAFOOD RESTAURANT
A great little Korean restaurant with friendly service (all too rare here). We fancy their seafood soup and their seafood pancake with leeks, prawns and octopus. This is one of the best and most interesting options for Korean food in the city.

MIZ JAPANESE RESTAURANT
To deem the food here “value‑for‑money” would be a gross understatement. The simplest of dishes—cold garlic butter udon with caviar ($12) and even the Japanese rice tea—ace the taste test. Their salmon tataki, or seared salmon, is heavenly.

O’BAMA’S IRISH PUB
Standing out like a pot of gold among the KTV pubs and bridal boutiques is this Tanjong Pagar watering hole playing off Barack Obama’s name, toasting to “Change You Can Drink To.” The joint comes with a typical pub menu, the food is good and if you aren’t Irish, the music will make you feel like you are.

PASTA BRAVA
In this restaurant the atmosphere is relaxed, with staff greeting you warmly upon entry and the owner hanging around cracking jokes with his customers. The squid ink spaghetti, meat ravioli with gorgonzola and osso buco are good choices here.

PAVILLION RESTAURANT
Featuring crisp‑fried scallop mousse in lemongrass spears, and a combination of Peking duck, foie gras and crispy mushroom as appetizers, its six‑course menus ($58++ or $98++ per head) serve Cantonese delicacies with a touch of the West.

THE PIGEONHOLE
Pre‑loved books, furniture and fresh flowers dress an otherwise raw alcove carpeted in fire‑engine red. But this multi‑faceted establishment is not just a place for people to hang around and sip drinks, browse books and daydream. It also hosts events such as their Sunday Eclectica flea market (2nd and 4th Sunday of each month).

PINK DINING & BAR
A health‑conscious, calorie‑counting venture, with friendly service, mixed menu and sometimes average food. The marinated teriyaki chicken, though, is a delight. Same goes for their low‑fat, low‑sugar desserts.

THE PLAIN
The alluring aroma of coffee welcomes you as the door is swung open. Inspired by the typical Melbournian café, coffee, food, people, service and music are the main focuses. We recommend Darling Eggs or salami ciabatta for lunch—do come early though, it’s a popular place.

PLAY
Tiny it may be, but Play has proven it has what it takes with its slew of very sexy parties. The predominantly male crowd is almost always outrageous and congenial, particularly when kitschy disco and house anthems are pumped out.

SABIO TAPAS BAR & RESTAURANT
Barely a month‑old, this Spanish restaurant is fast becoming one of Duxton’s busiest. Striking décor aside, Sabio is an ideal spot for some sangrias and a mix of delicious tapas (be sure to have some jamón ibérico de bellota).

SALTA
A massive five‑meter parrilla (grill) greets you the moment you enter. If you love your meat, just cut to the chase and order the lomo (tenderloin). Each cut of beef comes naked, served on a plain white plate—the better to appreciate its handsome form.

SAM.LEONG@FOREST COOKING SCHOOL
This is chef Sam Leong of Tung Lok Group fame’s very own cooking school, set up his with wife, Forest. If cooking’s not your thing, then try the Chef’s Table.

THE STRAITS WINE COMPANY
A prominent wine distribution company across Singapore, Malaysia and the Philippines, only the finest wines are selected and supplied to large‑scale hotels and corporations including The Hilton Singapore. True experts.

TABLE 66
A sleek contemporary European establishment helmed by chef‑owner Vincent Teng. Much of the menu is sous‑vide, including beef tartare and asmanthus‑infused pork belly. The attentive and unintrusive service, welcoming space and beautifully presented fare make this a good bet for an enjoyable dining experience all‑around.

THANYING RESTAURANT
This excellent dining institution might not be the cheapest for Thai food but it’s certainly one of the best. The décor is charmingly dated and the service is quick. We recommend the sweet and spicy mango salad, panang chicken curry, pad Thai and kangkong with chili paste.

THE TOUCAN IRISH PUB
With soothing strains of U2 and Irish flutesy folk music wafting through, The Toucan comes complete with vintage Guinness posters and old‑school barrel tops. Try the stewed beef in Guinness.

UNION SQUARE
Union Square has refurbished their wine bar, rendering the place more posh than ever. And good news for clubbers—the dance floor in the main room is now more spacious.

XI YAN
When Xi Yan burst on to the dining scene with its Hong Kong star chef, exclusive, no‑menu, six‑tables‑only private dining set up, you had to book a table literally months in advance. Go for the Chef’s Power Lunch six‑course menu or Chef’s Supreme eight‑course menu.

YIXING XUAN TEAHOUSE
Savor excellent Chinese tea and soothe your mind and body—you’ll be surprised at how much more there is to brewing and appreciating the multifarious teas than you’ve ever known here.

More in Chinatown:
Amoy / Boon Tat / Robinson / Stanley / Telok Ayer
Ann Siang / Club / Erskine / Maxwell
Bukit Pasoh / Keong Saik / Kreta Ayer
Smith / Temple / Trengganu

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