Dining
1. 3 Inch Sin
#02-27 Cluny Court, 501 Bukit Timah Rd., 6314-1217
Choose from eight flavors (including coffee, raspberry, bitter orange, peanut butter and mint) of pint-sized, molten chocolate nuggets of sin.
2. Adam Road Food Centre
2 Adam Rd.
Rated among Singapore’s best hawker centers, Adam Road Food Centre is particularly renowned for its Malay and Indian-Muslim cuisine. Here you’ll find Adam’s Nasi Lemak and Selera Rasa Nasi Lemak competing side-by-side, along with Adam’s Indian Rojak, Nasi Singapura House of Lontong and Noo Cheng Adam Road Big Prawn Mee.
3. Choupinette
#01-01, 607 Bukit Timah Rd., 6466-0613
You’ll see shades of the French countryside at this cozy café. Their Croque-Monsieur makes for one of the best breakfasts anywhere.
4. Hanabi Japanese Restaurant
#01-03 Kings Arcade, 559 Bukit Timah Rd., 6465-5525
The all-you-can-eat lunch and dinner buffets feature a spread of over 100 types of sushi, sashimi, tempura and grilled meat.
5. Himalaya Kitchen
#01-12/13 Crown Centre, 557 Bukit Timah Rd., 6736-8433
For North Indian and Nepalese delights, look no further. And if you prefer a dish from anywhere else in India, it’s on the menu too.
6. La Petite Cuisine
#01-05 Serene Centre, 10 Jln Serene, 6314-3173
This French eatery may be casual and affordable, but their escargot, foie gras and duck confit would make any Parisian go “oh là là!”
7. Relish by Wild Rocket
#02-01 Cluny Court, 501 Bukit Timah Rd., 6467-3987
Gourmet burgers get an eccentric twist at Relish. Favorites include the Ram-Lee Burger (a beefed up night market classic) and the char siew open foccacia burger.
8. Sogurt
617 Bukit Timah Rd., 6468-8940
This self-serve “froyo” boutique carries flavors like white chocolate macadamia, blueberry acai and raspberry pomegranate with every topping imaginable.
9. Taste Matters
#02-19 Cluny Court, 501 Bukit Timah Rd., 6297-9713
Lemon tarts and Guaca Melaka (smooth avocado ice cream drizzled with gula melaka) are the best examples of the homemade goodness oozing out of this dessert parlor.
10. Tierney’s Café
#02-20 Serene Centre, 10 Jalan Serene
While Tierney’s Gourmet is gone, this no-frills café channels its spirit through delightful classics like beef stew, fish and chips and chicken chop.
Bars
11. O’Riordan’s Irish Bar
#01-03 Crown Centre, 557 Bukit Timah Rd., 6314-8612
Warm Irish charm awaits beneath Crown Centre’s art deco inspired signage. Slàinte!
12. The Old Brown Shoe
619F Bukit Timah Rd., 6468-4626
Named after the Beatles song, or possibly just aged footwear, tuck in to classic English pub grub here and wash it down with a real ale.
Shops
13. BBQGrillCulture
#01-07 Serene Centre, 10 Jalan Serene, 6875-1657
Forget about the kitchen and celebrate the great outdoors! These grill specialists stock the widest range of barbeques in the country, with brands like Broil King, Weber and Masport.
14. German Market Place
615 Bukit Timah Rd., 6466-4044
This one-stop shop for all things German was one of the first in town to import food and beverages from Deutschland.
15. Le Bénaton
611 Bukit Timah Rd., 6235-4800
Fronted by a rustic wooden deck, Le Bénaton stocks a variety of rare boutique French wines.
16. OOI i.n.c
#02-22 Cluny Court, 501 Bukit Timah Rd., 6465-1197
This indie boutique offers value for money jewelry, accessories and leather bags.
17. Perniq Home Accents
#01-01A Cluny Court, 501 Bukit Timah Rd., 6463-7190
If your home is missing that one distinctive decorative feature, be it a lamp, statuette or a fine piece of woodwork, you can fill the gap here.
18. Sophia Rose
#02-23 Cluny Court, 501 Bukit Timah Rd., 6464-8433
For days when the air-con gets too chilly, fight the frostbite with a stylish cardigan from Sophia Rose.
19. Toy Station
#02-09/10/11 Serene Centre, 10 Jalan Serene, 6468-3054
Lined wall to wall with toys to suit all ages, Toy Station might inspire you to start your second childhood early.
OTHERS
20. Gallery V
#02-11 Cluny Court, 501 Bukit Timah Rd., 6467-9108
Gallery V is dedicated to showcasing Vietnamese fine art with pieces both for sale and loan. They also offer consultancy services for commissioning works for homes and corporate spaces.
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If you paid attention in class, you’ll already know about the history of the Singapore River. Interesting though it is, we tend to let our hunger not our textbooks guide us, and fortunately there’s a multitude of dining options along the banks. We started our food trek at the understated Robertson Quay area, past the crowds in Clarke Quay, and wound up at the iconic Raffles’ landing site. Here are the pick of establishments worth docking at.
Brussel Sprouts
#01-12 The Pier @ Robertson, 80 Mohamed Sultan Rd., 6887-4344.
A relaxed bistro offering courtesy of Belgian celeb chef and yoga guru Emmanuel Stroobant, located in what’s arguably our favorite part of the stretch (Robertson Quay). It’s just busy enough to be buzzing but not so much as to be off-putting. We’re all about the mussels (done in 25 possible ways). For a clear option, order them a la Leffe Blonde—coriander, butter, celery, onion and parsley in Leffe Blonde beer. And if you need an extra hit of seafood, give their creamy ostendaise a go. Asian flavors make an unexpected appearance with lobster consommé base tom yam, all the usual suspects, and imperial ginseng, red dates and wolf berries in a double-boiled chicken stock. Starter portions go for $18.50, while mains are $38.50. Both are accompanied by free refills of fries. All the better to soak up the obscene amount of beer you’ll be drinking. Oh wait, that was us. There are only 120 different ones to tickle your fancy, so make sure you set aside some time to work your way through the lot. Brownie points (and a ridiculous bill) if you manage it all in one sitting.
Fremantle Seafood Market
#01-05/06 Traders’ Market, Blk. 3E Clarke Quay, River Valley Rd., 6337-1838.
Set in the bustling Clarke Quay area, this dedicated seafood specialist channels the vibrant yet carefree vibe of Freo, Perth. They’re all about the freshest seafood, flying it in thrice a week from the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, Alaska and, of course, Australia. Sure, there’s the quintessential fish ‘n chips ($19), which are always good with a lavish squeeze of lemon juice and vinegar, if you please. But for something a little different, try their whole fish, such as snapper baked in paper with a medley of different herbs or barramundi in a sea salt crust (from $55). We reckon their Sunday brunch ($58), with its spread of king fish Hamachi, yellow fin tuna, chilled shrimps, half-shell scallops and mussels with lemon cocktail sauce, is an ideal weekend option. Be sure to guzzle down some freshly shucked oysters with spicy soy mirin or garlic aioli.
Octapas Spanish Tapas Bar
#01-08 Blk. D, Clarke Quay, River Valley Rd., 6837-2938.
Also in the vicinity, is Octapas Spanish Tapas Bar, one of the newest restaurant-bars. While the indoor setup is made for cozying up with a special someone, that pretty much defeats the purpose of riverside dining. The alfresco area, like the rest of the lot here, is modeled after the deck of a ship. So you can’t take yourself too seriously if you want to enjoy it (the other option, which we always endorse, is to drink heavily). The flavor here is distinctly Spanish, so be prepared for an onslaught of tapas. We strongly recommend kicking things off with some blackberry sangrias ($16.50) as you wait. We’re fans of their flash-fried shrimps wrapped in bacon with tomato salsa ($14.50) and roasted piquillo peppers stuffed with minced chicken ($14). Other highlights include tender grilled squid in a balsamic vinegar reduction ($15.50) and beef tenderloin cubes in garlicky gravy ($17).
Timbre @ The Arts House
#01-04 The Arts House, 1 Old Parliament Lane, 6336-3386.
While we were initially reluctant to venture from the original at The Substation, we’re awful glad we did. It’s a great spot to kick back, and the view from the Arts House’s riverfront is splendid. Chill out to easy listening live local music with bands Goodfellas and 53A as you munch on their scrumptious thin-crust pizzas. We’ve been known to gobble down more than a few, such as their tandoori chicken ($17)—grilled tandoori-spiced chicken breast, sliced roma tomatoes, melted mozzarella and grilled yellow and green zucchini. If you can’t settle on just one flavor, do a half and half pizza for $19. Aside from their happy hours for the boozehounds, they also have bundled pizza and beer deals from $30.
IndoChine Waterfront Restaurant
Asian Civilisations Museum, 1 Empress Place, 6339-1720.
At the other end of the spectrum is famous IndoChine group’s spin on Cambodian, Laotian and Vietnamese food. Designed by Michael Ma, you should fully expect trimmings like lotus flower-shaped Czechoslovakian crystal chandeliers, Sukhothai Buddhas and Shan antiques for a touch of contemporary contrasted with old world charm. And yes, the view of Boat Quay and Empress Place is picturesque. But they’re not just a pretty face, the food is also delicious. Christen your meal with some goi cuon vit ($20)—Vietnamese rice paper rolls filled with roast duck, fresh green mangoes, Japanese cucumbers, coriander and mint leaves, highlighted with a mango ginger sauce. Signatures like the French beef stew ragoût ($26) and IndoChine lemongrass rack of lamb with pumpkin wedges and rosemary-scented apples ($46) are also worthy picks.
Other hot spots:
Aburiyatei
#01-10 The Quayside, 60 Robertson Quay, 6836-5370.
Brasserie Wolf
#01-13 The Pier @ Robertson, 80 Mohamed Sultan Rd., 6738-1077.
Café Iguana Riverside Point
#01-03 Riverside Point, 30 Merchant Rd., 6236-1275.
Kinara North West Frontier Cuisine
57 Boat Quay, 6533-0414.
Quayside Seafood Restaurant
Blk. 3A Clarke Quay, River Valley Rd., 6338-0138.
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Everyone knows about the wildly famous 328 Katong Laksa, Sin Hoi Sai Eating House, Boon Tong Kee and Chin Mee Chin Confectionery (just to name a few); this is a foodie heritage haven after all. But aside from the classics, a bunch of new eateries have sprung up and now call this picturesque area home. There’s no doubt that the landscape of available cuisines has changed, and for the better, too. We’ve scouted around to bring you some of Katong’s new kids on the block.
148 East Coast Rd., 6344-6826.
Just a month old, we were pleased to find various treats such as green tea financiers ($2.50/box of three) and rum chestnut cake ($4)—an almond sponge base, layered with chestnut paste and rum mousse. They also offer up some savories, including butter croissants and other flaky pastries. But we’d go straight for their scrumptious mini lemon cheese tarts ($1.20); crisp, lightly-sweetened pastry shells cradling a cream cheese filling tinged with zesty lemon. The chocolate fudge cake ($4.90) that they put out is also a winner, satisfyingly chocolatey without being the least bit cloying.
131 East Coast Rd., 6346-7604.
Housed in the same space as Awfully Chocolate (its parent company) and Mooshi Bakes, this casual kushiyaki (Japanese grilled dishes) joint is bustling with hungry patrons. Or maybe it’s just the overflow from folks looking for baked goods. Either way, this is the place to hit up for a quick nibble or even a full-fledged meal. Choose from skewers such as pork belly with quail’s eggs and miso ($4.90), chicken thigh and leek with sea salt ($3.90) and scallops with garlic butter dressing ($5.90). For something more substantial, pile on the carbs with a helping of their cha siu and egg rice ($3.90).
131 East Coast Rd., 6346-0984.
Also under the same family as Awfully Chocolate, this pastry shop is a well-oiled machine, despite having opened only two months ago. It continues to supply all the bread for the Everything with Fries and EwF outlets, as well as offering its own goodies (all of which are baked on the premises daily, so you can be assured of freshness). Substantial-sized cream puffs (not those dainty, wimpy ones), Bartlett pear frangipane and strawberry cheese tarts are all tempting options. Aside from their namesake mooshi breads, they also offer a spinach loaf (the perfect way to get tots or big kids like ourselves to eat greens). If it’s good enough for Popeye, it’s definitely good enough for us.
93 East Coast Rd., 6342-0677.
Our new favorite dessert parlor, set up by four friends of greedy disposition (their words, not ours). When we first discovered it two months ago, the décor and menu were admittedly a little sparse. But as they say, good things come to those who wait (so we did, albeit grudgingly). And in this short span of time, Pavé’s really started to come into its own. This quaint patisserie makes some mean chocolates. Case in point, the Ooze ($14.90). Bite into this sinfully dark chocolate bar, studded with cocoa nibs, which hides a seductive sea-salted caramel. We know a Parisian who’ll gladly venture across town for their bonbons. Another unique creation is their Laputa Blanco ($8.50), a creamy thyme-scented hazelnut and almond frozen parfait. These kitchen dwellers are always experimenting with different flavors and recipes, which suits us just fine.
91 East Coast Rd., 6440-9200.
Right next door, you’ll find a two story shop house. The first floor is part café, part patisserie (with freshly baked cakes and breads on display), while the second is a warm and cozy dining room. That’s thanks primarily to the generous use of wood-tables, chairs, couches and flooring, with ivory accents scattered around (inverted umbrella lights add a touch of whimsy to the inviting feel of the place). Texan chef Randy Torres whips up hearty, home-style comfort food, such as their house tomato soup ($7.50). Other dishes to try include the Maryland style crab cake ($10), with a julienned cucumber-herb salad, and his chicken saltimbocca pasta ($16.50)—spinach tagliatelle barely coated in a light Marsala cream, topped with a piece of grilled chicken, sweet caramelized onions, crisp prosciutto and fried sage that make for a symphony of textures and flavors.
Also look out for:
Coccogelo
#01-01, 89 East Coast Rd., 6345-3646.
We had a peek into this alluring, well-designed gelato establishment (even though it isn’t officially open for business yet, hopefully by the end of the month). And boy, are we glad we did! Several tasting spoons of gelato later (thanks to kind owner J.J.), we knew we’d be back. We won’t ruin the surprise for the rest of you, but it’s yet another good reason to make the trek out.
Mookata
103 East Coast Rd., 6344-2985.
From what we’ve been told by the owners, this will be a traditional Thai seafood barbeque restaurant that’s opening for business this weekend. We’ll keep you posted. Or if you beat us to it, don’t forget to report back.
Ramen Culture
#01-01, 85 East Coast Rd., 6345-1998.
A few doors down from Coccogelo, Ramen Culture has staked out their spot on the stretch. As this is the second outlet of the Japanese noodle joint (their first is in ICON Village), you can expect more of the same delicious black pig ramen.
Oldies but goodies
328 Katong Laksa
216 East Coast Rd., 9732-8163.
Boon Tong Kee
199 East Coast Rd., 6478-1462.
Chin Mee Chin Confectionery
204 East Coast Rd., 6345-0419.
Sin Hoi Sai Eating House
187 East Coast Rd., 6440-6956.
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In business for 25 years, Akbar serves mostly Indian, Bangladeshi and Pakistani dishes, but there are a few Arabic ones available, too.
The food: If Middle Eastern food isn’t really your thing, this place can help out with its wide variety of food from the Subcontinent. The special tandoori mix (B350) and vegetarian thali (B250) provide a good mix of foods in big portions, sure to fill up anyone. If you’re not quite ready to eat that much, the murgh makhani (tandoori chicken cooked in mild spices with a tomato and butter sauce, B180) is also recommended.
• 1/4 Soi 3, 02-650-3347, 02-255-6935, 02-253-3479. Open daily 10:30am-1:30am.
Who would have thought that a combination of Iranian and Iraqi food would be the main feature on a restaurant’s menu? It is here, and we discovered that you can have the best of both countries.
The food: Kebabs and barbecued meats are the main components of this restaurant’s menu: fish, lamb, chicken, ribs and prawns. The restaurant has a bit of a hotel atmosphere as the location doubles as a guesthouse. Try the Iraqi kebab (B160) or kebab with rice (B200).
• 8/17-18 Soi 3/1, 02-655-5357, 02-251-8810. Open daily 9am-3:30am.
Like its neighbor Akbar, MehMaan serves Indian, Pakistani and Arabic food in a dining room featuring a giant picture of the late Yasser Arafat.
The food: If you feel hungry enough to eat one of the horse statues outside, perhaps the tandoori sampler is for you: It contains a number of assorted kebabs and comes in small (B340) and large (B650) sizes. Also popular are the lamb vindaloo (B250), chicken tikka masala (B220) and the ubiquitous garlic naan bread (B50).
• 69 Soi 3, 02-253-4689. Open daily 10:30am-3am; 5:30pm-12:30am.
Shisha is hot at the moment, and this is one place in the area where you can come and smoke to your heart’s content. Just don’t tell your significant other that you’re “going to use a hookah.” They might misunderstand.
The food: Where else can you find an Egyptian restaurant that is open 24 hours every day? You can drop in for a few puffs of shisha while you relax and watch the world go by.
• 4/8 Soi 3/1, 02-655-3043, 02-255-7107. Open 24 hrs.
For Thai food we have rice; for Arabian food there is naan bread. The cooking area is at the front, and you have to walk past a clay oven—where bakers are baking naan—to enter this little Lebanese eatery.
The food: In addition to Lebanese dishes, there are also many Arab and Yemen specialties on the menu. Chicken curry (B150) is especially good when combined with fresh bread. The slowly cooked naan, baked to be crisp outside and soft inside, brings out the best of the flavorsome spices that are present in the curry. Many lamb dishes—such as lamb kebab (B130), barbecued lamb, and lamb ribs (B150)—are also popular.
• 75/4 Soi 3/1, 02-655-5230, 02-254-9226/-7. Open daily 8am-3am.
With a display case full of animal parts (including various organs), and, if you arrive early enough, skinned lamb carcasses hanging from hooks, Shahrazad is hard to miss. With arguably the best food in the area, Shahrazad is also known for its waitresses in matching green hijabs and prayer room upstairs.
The food: Start your meal off with some Middle Eastern appetizers: hummus (pureed chickpeas with sesame seed paste, B80), mutabbal (a.k.a. babaganoush, pureed eggplant with sesame seed paste, B80), lemony parsley and bulgur wheat salad (B80) and hot-from-the-oven naan (B20). For heartier appetites, try the leg of lamb (B200), the lamb chops or anything else made of lamb—it’s all excellent, tender and not gamey. For the daring, try heart, head or testicles (and let us know what they’re like). For dessert check out the Arabic custard (made with fresh milk, coconut and almonds, B70).
• 6/8 Soi 3/1, 02-254-7392/3, 02-251-3666. Open daily 10am-3am.
There are several—at least three—dedicated shawarma stalls (as well as restaurants that serve shawarma). By far the busiest and the best is on the corner of Soi 3 and a Soi 3/1 subsoi, next to the Grace Hotel. It’s loud, hot and stressful, and you’ll probably end up sitting next to some questionable characters (if you can get a seat), but well worth it. For B50 you get a choice of grilled beef or chicken in flatbread with veggies and your choice of yogurt or chili sauce. (You can also get it with the bread on the side.) A tip: place your order in Thai and you’ll get faster service.
The above-mentioned stall is a nighttime affair, so if you want your shawarma for lunch, try the shop next to Nefertiti, which serves them from 11am. They actually open at 7am serving a selection of Thai food.
Slotted into a small niche between Arab eateries is this small but cozy restaurant that is good for a quick meal of halaal Thai food.
The food: Thai dishes such as tom yum goong (B110), pork and chicken fried rice (B60), and grilled fresh fish (B180) are the most popular.
• Next to Petra Restaurant, 08-1859-0418. Open daily 10:30am-1am.
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No Cina story would be complete without a visit to the most Cina of Cina places, yep, you guessed it: Chinatown. The area is full of fascinating artifacts and delicious food that measures up to the best of them, even if it can be a little unsophisticated. So ignore the atas snobs who’ve never deigned to set foot there, thinking it’s only for grizzled old folks, dirty tramps and wide-eyed tourists seeking “exotic” sights, for they don’t know what they’re missing.
But warning: If you’re used to air-conditioned comfort, clean marble-tiled floors or even easily-accessible toilet facilities, you’re better off sheltering in one of the many shopping malls in town, for you can’t experience Chinatown if you’re not willing to get down and dirty a little. Toilets, if they can be found, usually charge for entry into their grubby interiors.
You’ll be amazed by the sheer number of small, independent shops selling all sorts of stuff. Those who lament the one-size-fits-all retail model of most local shopping malls will find this most refreshing. While the Chinatown Heritage Centre (48 Pagoda St., 6325-2878) is intended for visitors to the country, and together with shops like Sin Kee Arts & Crafts (30 & 39 Pagoda St., 6225-5806), blatantly panders to tourists with their kitschy knick-knacks, others do offer inspired and unique specialist curios that even locals will find worthy of a second look. The mother of all venues for Chinese products is Yue Hwa Chinese Products Pte Ltd (70 Eu Tong Sen St., 6538-4222), where you can satisfy your desire for all things Mandarin, like cough remedies and energy drinks at premium prices.
If you still can’t contain your hankering for familiar urbane trappings though, we recommend The Red Peach Gallery (68 Pagoda St., 6222-2215), one of the few places in the area that manages to look upmarket and chic while peddling sufficiently Chinese furnishings and paintings. We also like Jing-Si Books & Café (#01-12, 25 Trengganu St., 6324-6889), which is a Chinese version of Starbucks or Borders, where one can browse through its selection of literary tomes and stationary and sip on quality tea.
If all that conspicuous consumption wears you out, recharge your batteries at the large number of great eats that can be found. Tiong Bahru Boneless Hainanese Chicken Rice (56 Smith St.) is a branch of the popular $2 chicken rice at Tiong Bahru Market. It is always crowded during lunch time, so go early. Tiong Shian Eating House (#01-00 Ann Kway Association Building, 265 New Bridge Rd., 6221-1596) has perhaps the best porridge in Singapore, so if you don’t mind the dusty location next to the road, tuck into its delicious offerings. For dessert, 75 Glutinous Rice Ball Peanut Soup (Stall 4, Chinatown Food Street, Smith St.), serves up luscious tang yuan in with four different fillings: Red bean, sesame, yam and peanut—a favorite among most Chinese, for sure. Ji De Chi (#01-02, 46 Upp Cross St., 6226-6628) and Gong He Guan (28 Upp Cross St., 6223-0562) contribute to the sweet endings with their selections of hot and cold desserts ranging from $2-28. Not forgetting, of course, Lim Chee Guan (203 New Bridge Rd., 6227-8302 and #01-25 People’s Park Complex, 1 Park Rd.,6535-0927), which is a hit during Chinese New Year. While it’s not the festive season, you should try its bak kwa and see what the fuss is all about.
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In case you hadn’t noticed, rental prices for properties have been shooting through the roof in the last couple of months. Housing rentals have increased by as much as 100 percent in some areas, and commercial rentals are not far behind. Those with signed leases not up for renewal in the next year should thank their lucky stars: Because the rest of us are going broke.
Don’t believe us? Just ask around—anyone who has had to renew their lease since the end of last year is quoting anywhere from a minimum increase of 30 percent and above.
And it’s not just in the private housing. Expats and those who can afford condos are getting stung, but it seems the increase is right across the housing sector, with House Development Board (HDB) property prices increasing too.
We followed two people whose leases are about to expire and are in search of new homes, to find out just how bad it really is.
Matthew and his wife are expats who have been living in Singapore for three years. Recently their lease came up for renewal and their housing budget increased so they looked at relocating.
Budget: $6,500 per month.
Areas: Orchard, River Valley.
Size: 1,400 sq. ft.
Other Prerequisites: At least three bedrooms, within 10 minutes walk to MRT and/or bus, full facilities, outdoor area or balcony.
Time Spent Looking: About six weeks.
“With the size of our housing budget, we really did not consider there was going to be any issue with finding an apartment to suit our needs. In fact, we were excited about finally being able to move closer to town.
At first we were confused about why the agent was taking us around to places that were around the $8,000-11,000 per month price range. But after a few inspections, we began to see why.
Basically, there was nowhere in the areas we were interested in that was offering an apartment the size we wanted for less than $7,000. If we had been prepared to go a little further away from the MRT stations, for instance, towards Jervois Road, we could have found an older condo. But all the newer ones in the River Valley and Cairnhill areas were very upfront that they would not even begin negotiating below $7,000.
Even the older condos we looked at, just to get an idea of pricing, were not really options. Almost everything around Orchard is enbloc, meaning likely to be torn down again really soon. We didn’t think it was unreasonable of us not to want to live next to a building site, but we were fast being left with little choice.
We always knew that finding a place with an alfresco area was going to be difficult, and that prerequisite combined with the rental increase basically priced us out of the market.
The longer this went on, and the more letters of consent we put in, the more of our prerequisites we were prepared to forego just so we could move. In the end, we realized we could only move to the areas we wanted if we gave up everything else (such as the facilities, space, and number of bedrooms) we wanted, so we stopped looking.
We ended up renewing our current lease in Toa Payoh for $800 more per month. (Our landlord wouldn’t negotiate on that either.)”
Samantha is a marketing executive who had to move out from a housemate’s place recently as her lease had expired.
Budget: $700-900 per month.
Areas: Tiong Bahru, Little India, Novena, Katong.
Size: Studio or two bedroom HDB.
Other Prerequisites: Near MRT or public buses, and not too rundown.
Time spent looking: Five weeks.
“With my rather limited budget, I knew finding the right place would be tough—but not that tough! As price of rent has shot through the roof over the past six months, I was not surprised to learn that studio HDBs below $700 are being snapped up like hotcakes. Initially, I tried my luck with these, but of course, none came to fruition as I was usually stuck in the office and had little time to view most places.
I was mostly checking the classifieds in the local newspaper—and I couldn’t believe the astronomical prices! $1,000 for a studio in Khatib—are you kidding?! And $750 for a dodgy and decrepit looking unit on the ground floor in Tiong Bahru?
After failing to get anything decent from the classifieds and with only two-and-a-half-weeks to move out, I panicked and started sending out mass emails and sms-es to let friends and working contacts know that I was desperately looking for a place, and that any leads would help. I should have done this earlier (so as not to trouble friends unnecessarily) as I ended up with some pretty good leads. Some friends recommended me good websites, while others knew of friends who were either looking for housemates or knew of friends who were leasing out units, etc.
A couple of places were interesting: A room in Punggol that was relatively affordable at $500, but was simply too far-off; and another private apartment in town that was quite affordable, but alas, was simply way too small.
So in the end, I had to stick to my original plan to find a unit of my own and not just rent a room. Thankfully, I got to take over a two-bedroom unit from a friend of friend’s who just happened to be giving up their unit. Falling slightly over my budget, I reckoned that it would be OK if I leased out the other room to balance off my rent every month. But the unit comes with a catch: It’s only a six month lease for now as I am simply taking over an already existing lease.
Whoever thought house-hunting would be such an utter pain and an expensive ordeal to boot! If it weren’t for personal contacts, I would probably have ended up homeless as nothing that was within my budget was worthwhile in any way!”
What Housing Development Board (HDB) has to say about the housing rental market.
We scoured the property sections of the newpapers and checked out condo and HDB prices to find out the average rental per month for a two-bedroom flat around Singapore. Here’s what we found.
We chat to people living in Singapore’s most expensive districts about what they think about the rental they’re paying.
So what’s so good about where you live?
“A friendly multi national community with lots of children in the street.
It’s also quiet, off the main road, has easy access to wet market and a variety of grocery stores and taxis. There are restaurants and bars within walking distance.”
But is it worth the rent you pay?
“No. Our rent increased at the end of last year by almost $3,000. The way the property market and agents work causes this spiraling of prices. There appears to be no incentive for even the tenants’ agent to negotiate the price of a property down.
So what’s so good about where you live?
“Location, location, location. You can’t beat the central location. Plus our building is new with modern facilities and it’s great for children.”
But is it worth the rent you pay?
“You pay for what you get so I guess yes, it’s worth it.”
How do we compare in terms of housing to our regional neighbors?
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We tried to talk to the Housing Development Board (HDB) about why the housing rental market has become so expensive and the reasons why. The answer they gave us was “The rent for subletting of whole HDB flats depends on market conditions and varies for different estates and flat types.” How helpful. So instead, we sought the expertise of Nicholas Mak, director of the Consultancy and Research Department at Knight Frank, to get more information.
“The housing rental market picked up in the last three months of 2006. If we look at island-wide figures, rental accelerated in third and fourth quarter of 2006 from 1.1 percent in the first quarter of the year to 5.3 percent in the fourth. So for the whole of 2006 housing rental increased 14.1 percent. We haven’t seen such high rate of increase over 12 months since 1991. Even during the property boom of 1996 there was only about an 11 percent increase year on year.”
“There is an increasing demand as more foreigners come to Singapore to work but there is also a reduction in supply. That’s because there are lots of enbloc sales especially in districts 5, 9, 10 and 11. So some properties that were formerly rented out now have landlords who are reluctant to commit to long leases because they are waiting for prospective collective enbloc sales, while short leases are not attractive to tenants.”
“There is some spillover demand into the HDB sector. Top management can’t afford the areas they used to live in anymore, so they move to another area. As a result, everyone gets pushed down. But the increase in HDBs is not that sharp.”
“Office space in general has also gone up quite sharply, more than residential. Overall for whole of 2006, corporate rental space went up by 30 percent. Just in the last three months of 2006 it went up by 11.6 percent.”
“It’s hard to forecast demand in two to four years when the enbloc developments will be completed. If we are going to increase the population to 6.5 million gradually and the job market is still buoyant and the government still welcomes foreign talent, there could be enough demand [to keep prices as they are].”
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After hours of being cooped up in a cubicle or being yelled at by your bosses, a drink is what you need—urgently—so that you can keep your sanity. (Well, even if you don’t have a cubicle or an over-demanding boss, you know you still deserve a good drink for some reason or another.) And if you work in the very heart of the CBD area (you know, the Shenton Way and Raffles Place vicinity), check out our list of hot picks to get a quick chill time after or during work. Don’t get stressed—get drunk.
#01-42/45 146 Market St., 6557-0040.
Open Mon-Wed 11am-midnight; Thu-Sat 11am-1am.
Decked in scarlet hues, the first floor of this glass-encased restaurant and bar is trendy, sophisticated and plush. Head upstairs for a more comfy and casual rooftop bar. There’s no lift, so try not to get drunk and roll down the stairs. Signature drinks include the Rum and Jam Cocktail and the Breakfast Cocktail.
Best time to come: Evenings on Wed, Thu and Fri are ideal. Rogues will be serving guests complimentary mini burgers and vodka shots during this period, though the exact times they will be served are not fixed yet.
9/F, M Hotel, 81 Anson Rd., 6421-6233.
Open Mon-Thu, Sat 5pm-1am; Fri 5pm-2am.
Popular J Bar still draws the crowds because of its intimate and loungy vibes, making it a good place to wind down with colleagues and catch up on the latest gossip. Hang out at its patio or simply chill out at its cozy semi tatami space which has scenic views of the port. The duo Vibe dishes contemporary, soul, R&B and jazz from Mon to Wed while the band By Definition plays rock, alternative and pop from Thu to Sat.
Best time to come: Between 5-8:30pm is good. You’ll get to enjoy the one-for-one deal for house pours and selected bottles. Martinis and Mumm’s Champagne are going at one for one all night too.
#01-01 Robinson Tower, 30 Robinson Rd., 6324-8076.
Open Mon-Thu 11am-1am, Fri-Sat 11am-2am.
When neckties begin to seem more like a noose, its time to head over to Harry’s Bar @ Raffles Quay. Sprawl-friendly sofas and comfy chairs make up the seating arrangement here. And with food meant to line the stomach and a reasonably priced bar on offer, this is a great place to loosen those neckties and have that post-work pint or two with friends.
Best time to come: With a happy hour from 11am-9pm everyday where drinks are cheaper, and a crazy hour from Mon-Fri 5-7pm, where its one-for-one on house pours, wine and spirits for $10, anytime of the day is good.
67 Chulia St., 6223-0038.
Open Mon-Fri 9:30am-midnight.
An alfresco bistro cafe by day and a bar by night, it’s a 1,000 sq. ft. space with clean, minimalist furnishings and breezy vibes. And to up its hip quotient, owner Michel Lu has recently launched new menu items to tantalize the taste buds of the lunchtime crowd, and a decent selection of single malt whiskies to sate the thirsty.
Best time to come: Arrive between 5-7pm on weekdays and enjoy a complimentary mini Wagyu burger with every drink you order. And best of all, grab a glass of champagne or martini at only $10 before 9pm.
G/F, The Fullerton Hotel Singapore, 1 Fullerton Sq., 6877-8135.
Open Mon-Fri 3pm-2am; Sat-Sun 5pm-2am.
Loved for its killer mojitos and shaken martinis, the stylish Post Bar, which comes revamped with a cool alfresco space last Nov, is still a classic favorite among expats, PMEBs and the well-heeled. Latest happenings in this bar include the introduction of two new cocktails—Monte Carlo Hairpin and Fullerton Hairpin—to kick off Formula 1 Grand Prix 2007.
Best time to come: Thu nights. Not too packed and not too empty, Post Bar attracts a good crowd at this time, radiating a feel-good buzz that’ll keep conversations at your table going.
#01-22 Republic Plaza Tower 1, 9 Raffles Place, 6438-0591.
Open Mon-Fri 11am-9pm.
Found right at the heart of rat race central, Cuvée has an extensive wine list that reads like a who’s who of the wine world. Alongside that, they have a menu prepared by one of the best chefs in Singapore, Felicien Cueff of Tower Club.
Best time to come: Anytime, but for those wanting their hard-earned dollar to go that bit further, come after 5pm where you can indulge in a set of three mini beef sandwiches for $10. On Tue and Wed after 5pm, enjoy a glass of wine for just $5.
Biddy Low, 27, Teacher
“You can always say you’re going for a business meeting!”
Jessie Song, 24, Analyst
“I need to clear the excess cash in my wallet.”
Iswardy Hamzah, 25, Investor/Chef
“Complain to your boss that you have a really bad stomachache. Even if you’re asked to go to the doctor, it’s hard to get detected.”
Ian Toh, 22, Teacher
“Just tell the boss the truth. Any humane and logical boss will allow it. Everyone has needs. Or, invite him along to the bar. And dump him halfway there.”
Lin Jun Jie, 26, Manager
“My neighbor just informed me that my cat jumped out of the window.”
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10 other places we will be sad to see go
What’s the definition of “public space”?
It can be a concrete building or a virtual space open for gatherings and discussion. A basic example is a park, but a web board or online community can also be a public space.
What kind of public space does Bangkok need?
Both real and virtual spaces. Recently, I heard the news that the Vietnamese government is now encouraging people to send comments and suggestions through the internet. I think our BMA has something like that, but it’s not widely known. It should be the people who suggest how things should be done, not the government telling us to sit down and listen to their ideas.
What can we do to save our public spaces?
Set up seminars, coordinate with NGOs, collect people’s opinions with comment boxes…
Which part of Bangkok should be conserved?
All of it. Bangkok is not a good city to build huge projects because our land is soft and lower than sea level. Skyscrapers also require a lot of energy for their air-con. We need to think about global warming and the next generation’s future.
What’s your opinion on the closing of Suan Lum Night Bazaar?
We need to carefully consider things before we let every space in our city become more and more commercial. Sellers will always attempt to reach more customers. It is inevitable for big companies to be attracted to such a prime location as Suan Lum.
In your opinion, how is Bankok’s city planning?
Our city became a mess from the moment we had Chinese shophouses. They combine residential and commercial areas together with living upstairs and a first floor used as a shop. A good city plan should start with zoning.
What are criteria for preserving one area?
A way of life, a certain indigenous uniqueness. The question is, what do we want to keep, and what do we want to borrow from other cultures?
Can you suggest some ways to improve our city?
I think it’s hard to do anything for Bangkok now. But in old cities like Chiang Mai, Ayutthaya, Prae or Nan, we should start zoning seriously before it’s too late.
What’s your opinion on Suan Lum closing?
We are sad that we will lose a great downtown venue. However, we are hopeful that when they develop the site they will include a performing arts facility. Bangkok needs a lot more of these.
Why did BEC Tero choose Suan Lum?
We have always been on the lookout for good venues with downtown locations and easy for patrons to access. With the underground station and the link to the Night Bazzar, the Suan Lum hall was ideal.
Do you think Bangkok should have more venues for concerts/events?
Yes, Bangkok is in dire need of more venues with various capacities. We have the best indoor arena in Asia with Impact Arena but beyond that, there is a big void. With Paragon and Central World both offering multi-purpose halls, it relieves the pressure on exhibition venues, but they are not well suited to concerts. There is still a need for a downtown indoor venue with 5–7,000 seat capacity, good acoustics, and where everyone can see the show. The more venues we have, the easier it is for promoters to bring in a bigger selection of artists and shows to Bangkok.
How do you feel about the end of Suan Lum?
The city might just lose another bit of its soul. And it might also lose an economic asset both for tourism and for cultivating local design and crafts. If you look thoroughly, you’ll find that several hundred budding designers and crafts entrepreneurs have taken root there. Leading architect Amanda Levete, of London’s Future Systems, recently visited Bangkok and cited Suan Lum as the thing she found remarkable about the city. She gets flown around the world by governments and companies begging her to design for them, so she knows what’s out there.
People like malls. Aren’t malls a sign of progress?
That’s how Singaporean planners thought, and so they sacrificed much of the city’s old neighborhoods and traditional markets. Now Singapore is under chronic pressure to find enough tourists and enough shoppers. They have to throw money at advertising, promotions, and devising new cultural attractions that don’t have much authenticity. Suan Lum is not old, but it’s certainly authentic. It’s real people presenting the things they create themselves, not corporations and brands. You just don’t find this kind of charm in a mall.
We already have Siam Square and JJ. Don’t they cover our needs for cheap retail space?
Suan Lum is better for grown-ups to shop because it’s cooler, less congested and a bit fancier than Chatuchak. It’s more diverse than Siam Square, which is focused on youth fashions.
Isn’t the real battle putting Thai designers into the malls?
The malls need the Thai designers, not the other way around.
What impact will the closing of Suan Lum Nigh Bazaar have on tourism?
Suan Lum Night Bazaar is a major tourist attraction in Bangkok, but I don’t think it will affect tourism as a whole if it were to close down. Tourists who come here can always find other places to visit; there are many more. And yet, Suan Lum is a great place to come and relax; people will definitely miss it.
Should there be more places like Suan Lum?
It actually depends on the type of tourists, too—a place like Khao San for example attracts only a certain type of tourist—so one place alone can’t affect the tourism industry as a whole.
If Suan Lum closes, do you think it will affect the Thai economy?
The effect won’t be that big, but people will have fewer choices for sure, assuming that goods sold at Suan Lum and Chatuchak differ from those in malls. The real issue here is not this though, it is the use of public space.
Can you explain?
Suan Lum itself has two characteristics: it’s a commercial space rented out by vendors and a free public space located next to a public park where people can come and go as they please. This is different from a mall.
What’s the value of the Suan Lum Night Bazaar?
It generates social networking. A few months ago, I remember there was some kind of local cooking contest at BEC Tero Hall. Street vendors came together and exchanged know-how. This kind of connection building is called social capital. If Suan Lum shuts down, this capital will be lost.
Do you have any suggestions?
Well, Central already got the lease so it’s up to them now. I hope they offer wide open spaces for people to sit and talk.
Do you think the government should intervene?
The Bangkok Metropolitan Administration (BMA) should do something. This is about the welfare of the community, not just a conflict of interests between P Con and the Crown Property Bureau. At least they should do a survey among the affected community.
1. BEC Tero Hall
02-252-9292, www.bec-terohall.com.
Many concerts, parties and events have been organized here since its opening in 2003. The stage has welcomed numerous international and Thai artists.
New Location: None planned.
2. La Belle
Lopburi Soi 3, 08-9110-6160.
We love this Bollywood-in-Bangkok shop for its Indian mosaic lamps, chandeliers, mirrors and candlesticks.
New Location: No immediate plans.
3. Doi Tung Coffee
Doi Tung Development Project Tourist Center, 02-252-7114 ext 217 or 234. www.doitung.org.
A trendy coffee shop under royal patronage, Doi Tung is more than an ordinary café. Its selection of coffee is part of the Doitung Development Project, which was initiated to alleviate poverty in rural areas. The shop also offers cottage handicraft and design products, all locally made.
New Location: None planned.
4. Gakabear
D463-464, Lopburi Soi 6, 08-1584-4327.
Fluffy bears are the passion of Khun Kla, who runs this shop as a sideline job. Here you can find all sorts of teddy accessories: teddy safety belts, teddy mouse pads and teddy pillows. Prices range from B145-490.
New Location: Possibly Siam Square or Chatuchak Weekend Market.
5. His Story
Lopburi Soi 8, 08-9000-2999. www.hisstorybkk.com.
This stall stands out from others with its classic décor and fashionable outfits for men. His Story has a variety of choices of shirts, pants, shoes and bags at prices starting at B1,290.
New Location: No immediate plans
6. La Roue de Paris
The Ferris wheel attracts lovers, friends, and families to Suan Lum for B100 per ride. Bangkok doesn’t have another big wheel, and if it needs to move out, we’ll sorely miss the fresh air up there.
Next Destination: Singapore.
7. Ruaen Ngam
Lopburi Soi 1, 02-231-3269, 08-5815-9038.
Another local design outfit, this one offers ceramics, big and small. They’ll also make custom items.
New Location: Chatuchak Weekend Market, Section 7 Soi 1.
8. Sitz Design
Lopburi Soi 5, 02-736-1846.
The showroom of a local design company, Sitz has been selling stylish furniture and offering interior design services here for three years. Every piece in the shop is made at its own factory.
New Location: 29/10 Soi Sri Akssorn, Fuel Rd.
9. Traditional Thai Puppet Theater (Joe Louis)
02-252-9683/4, 02-252-5227/-9, 02-251-0978/9. www.thaipuppet.com.
Winner of the best traditional performance award at the 10th World Festival of Puppet Art in Prague last year, this is Thailand’s most widely known puppet show, yet it’s still at risk of being closed. Nightly shows at 7:30pm.
New Location: None planned.
10. The Violin Shop
Ayudhya Soi 5
You wouldn’t expect to see a secondhand violin shop in a night bazaar, but there it is. Like taking a step back in time, the elderly shop owner always seems to be sitting there, busy fixing an old instrument or reading a newspaper.
New Location: Narathivas Road Soi 10 TKTKTKT phone number
Duangtawan Nilayon thinks about saving Suan Lum Night Bazaar!
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The Suan Lum Night Bazaar is closing down. It may not be this week, as it was originally scheduled; it may even not be this year. But the deal is done and all signs point to another mega-development featuring a shopping mall and a mixture of residential and office space. If it’s a done deal, you may ask, why are we whining about it? Besides, it’s just a beer garden and a few crappy little shops selling junk to tourists, after all. And it’s certainly the right of the owners and developers to do what they want within the boundaries of the law in order to make a profit—so if the market demands more malls and skyscrapers, we’ll get more malls and skyscrapers. That’s how capitalism works.
We accept all this. And we have nothing against the developer or any other party involved in this project. But we think the demise of the Night Bazaar is a bigger loss than most people realize.
A “bazaar,” which comes from an ancient Persian word, “wazaar,” was a typical market where merchants and customers met—specifically spice traders in the beginning, but the scope of commerce expanded to include things like books, food, secondhand items and, most importantly, crafts: bazaars have been traditionally known as places where local knowledge is shared and creativity thrives.
“Our” bazaar—Suan Lum Night Bazaar—is supposedly Bangkok’s first. (That’s what it says on the sign, anyway.) Opened in 2002, the 120 rai area contains roughly 3,700 shops, common areas (including the beer garden with its retractable roof) and restaurants.
The first wave of vendors struggled, but the number of visitors—including a much higher percentage of Thais than originally forecast—has steadily grown and business is good thanks to daily operation, ideal location and rental fees that are cheaper than shopping malls.
Is the Suan Lum Night Bazaar the greatest place in Bangkok? The coolest? Hippest? Most stylish? Most fun? Of course not. And we should admit for the record that when plans were unveiled to turn the former military school into a commercial development, we were strongly against it. We felt that the land could be better used for the public good. Why not a park (or an extension of Lumpini Park), a community center, a museum, athletic facilities—or all of these things?
Nearly six years later, however, we’ve come to accept—and appreciate—what it has to offer: choice.
The shopping area has grown into a neat alternative to Chatuchak Weekend Market—JJ on any day of the week and without the heat and the smell. At Suan Lum, you can find handicrafts, clothes and other items and reasonable prices. Many of the stalls are run by artists and designers, who couldn’t afford a space at Chatuchak.
In the cavernous beer garden, the food and drink is reasonably priced, and some of it is even edible. (Don’t get us started on the beer pretties.) The lip-synching and dancing onstage sometimes borders on the ridiculous, but there are plenty of seats on the opposite end of the stage if the entertainment is not your thing. They also use the hall to show sporting events, like big football matches, and it can be quite a party atmosphere. Then there is BEC-Tero Hall, which is the only facility of its kind in the inner city that can handle concerts by international artists, sporting events and the like.
There are also international restaurants, pet stores, a great coffee shop in Doi Tung and that French Ferris wheel.
The Night Bazaar is a commercial enterprise, but it’s not necessary to spend money there. Even though it’s a private space, members of the public are free to just hang out. So while it’s not as intellectually stimulating as say, TCDC, nor is it anywhere close to the ideal (like a community center), the Night Bazaar is an alternative in a city where going for a stroll on the sidewalk in the evening with your family or friends is not an option.
It’s not just visitors who benefit from Suan Lum Night Bazaar. It also offers opportunities for the people who do business there, thanks in large part to its affordable retail space. Despite all the talk about nurturing young talent—artists, designers, craftsmen, entrepreneurs—only a small percentage are able to pursue their dreams. The Night Bazaar gives them a chance to display their wares and hopefully make a decent living.
The Night Bazaar is a place where you can see the principle of self-sufficiency in action. Here people of all ages, from teenagers to grandparents, have the opportunity to learn how to run a business, which has probably kept more than a few borderline kids off the streets.
Many of the shop owners are like Nok at Buasa (Ayudhya Soi 6, 02-380-4999), who is a university student during the day and a businesswoman at night. “It’s one of the few things I can do to get pocket money while still having enough time to study,” she says. “Plus, it’s fun,” adds Ae, 4th year student at ABAC who works in a CD shop on Ayudhya Soi 3 (08-7994-5295).
So what do we have against shopping malls, condos and office towers? They’re not necessarily bad: more malls means more convenience for us as consumers. But when a mega project is built on one of the increasingly rare open spaces in the city, it decreases the chances that Bangkok will see another park, a playgrounds for kids, an art gallery or a community center. And the less we have, the less we realize what we’re missing—to the point that we don’t even consider the options.
It’s not so much Suan Lum Night Bazaar that needs saving: maybe what needs saving—or changing—are our priorities as a society and our ability and willingness as individuals to influence public policy. Does Bangkok really need another shopping mall?
It’s too late for Suan Lum Night Bazaar, but it’s not too late for us to make a difference. One example is the ongoing Bangkok Art and Culture Center project at Pathumwan junction. Eight years after it was approved in 1996, nothing had been done. So in 2004, a coalition consisting of the We Think group, Gen Art group, Makhampom Alliance, Bangkok Civic group and others came together to “remind” authorities of their promises. They organized art exhibitions, short film screenings and seminars to demonstrate their will. Thanks to their dedication, we will see at least part of this 11-story creative space completed in June.
If you have an idea or a cause that isn’t getting the attention it deserves, gather the names and signatures of 50 people who agree with you and send them to the Bangkok Metropolitan Administration (173 Dinsor Rd.) Follow up by calling them at 1555.
Or organize a seminar, write an article, invite members of the press to an event, set up a comment box somewhere in public.
In 2001, the lease of the 120 rai plot of land that was formerly a military academy owned by the Crown Property Bureau is given to P. Con Development (Thai). On these sprawling grounds, ideally situated at the corner of Wireless Road and Rama IV, they are to develop a new marketplace for Bangkokians, Suan Lum Night Bazaar.
P. Con’s lease is scheduled to end March, 2006 but, on that date, the Crown Property Bureau extends the lease to March 31, 2007.
The new leaseholder is as of April 1, 2007, Central Pattana PLC, one of Thailand’s biggest and most successful developers. The company hasn’t officially revealed its plans for the property, but most people believe it will build a shopping complex and residential and office buildings.
The Crown Property Bureau argues that a full year extension has already been given for the sake of vendors who had invested in shops and other businesses but that the leasing contract formerly held by P Con Development (Thai) Ltd. expired last year. Current vendors have been told they must vacate the premises by March 31.
P Con Development is continuing its fight in court and representatives of the company say that the Night Bazaar will not close on March 31 because the court has not ruled yet. P. Con Development is arguing in court that the new space in the back of Big C Ratchaprasong—which the Crown Property Bureau promised to prepare for Suan Lum retailers to move in—is not ready for them to use.
BK talks to various people on their thoughts about the closing of Suan Lum Night Bazaar and take a look at 10 other places we will be sad to see go.
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