Wang Lang Bakery

Just follow the fragrant aroma and you’ll find this bakery packed with many kinds of bread and pizza. The smell alone can get your appetite going.

The deal: A vast selection of breads—both sweet and savory—are on offer. The bestsellers, like shredded pork, sweet buttered buns and ham, often run out quickly, so it’s better to drop by early. You can also grab sandwiches if you want a mini meal.
The price: Sandwiches are B20. Stuffed breads are B35.
13 Trok Wang Lang, 02-866-1649. Open daily 9am-7pm.

Prasert Saimai

Thanks to Prasert Saimai, there’s no need to drive to Ayutthaya for authentic roti saimai (cotton candy wrapped in thin dough). This little stall has been offering the freshly made treats for over 20 years. Uncle Prasert is usually busy and has no time for chit chat. Just grab and go.

The deal: The thin green dough wraps are soft and have subtle pandanus hints, while the cotton candy stays dry for a long time without getting sticky. Roti and saimai is packed in ready-to-grab bags to ensure you get your order faster than at McDonald’s.
The price: B20 per set.
Across from Wang Lang Bakery, 081-633-5102. Open daily 8am-6pm.

Rod Dee Ded

If variety is what you seek, look no further than Rod Dee Ded. This shophouse has a seating capacity for up to 30 and sells khao muu daeng, pork noodles and many more dishes. It has appeared on various TV shows because of its popular fish maw soup.

The deal: Sitting attractively in the cooking booth in the front, the big plates of crispy moo krob and succulent red BBQ pork do a good job of luring hungry diners into the shop. Don’t forget to try the khao kha muu (rice topped with braised pork knuckle and pickle).
The price: B25-30.
333 Trok Wang Lang,02-412-7146. Open daily 6am-5pm.

Khanom Thai (No official name)

This little stall has only one medium-sized table, on which various colorful Thai desserts are on display. It’s fun to play a guessing game and see how many desserts you can identify correctly. Don’t be shy and ask the shopkeeper to explain those unidentified sweet treats. She is more than willing to do so.

The deal: Forget your personal trainer’s advice and feast on the tempting bite-sized khanom Thai. The options change daily, so keep your fingers crossed for your favorite dessert to be available on your visit.
The price: B10-20 for a set.
325/6 Trok Wang Lang, in front of Chai Seng Lee, 08-4675-6203. Open daily 9am-5pm.

“Smoothie shop”

Everyone knows two off-putting things about markets are that they’re hot and crowded. Which is where this smoothie stall with a cute shopkeeper comes in.
The deal: Carrot and orange smoothies feature a harmony of sour and sweet tastes. Iced coffee is also available for those who feel sleepy after a big meal.
The price: B20-30.
Trok Wang Lang. Open daily 8am-6pm.

Saimai Bamee Kiew Goong

Don’t confuse this with Prasert Saimai. Despite what its name suggests, this restaurant doesn’t offer roti saimai, but noodles. The restaurant is normally filled up at lunch with college students and office workers. Don’t expect much from the service, since the staff seem to be frustrated by clients all the time. But fortunately, the delicious noodles can make up for any surly service.

The deal: Its bamee kiew goong (noodles with shrimp dumplings) are the best bet here. The dumplings are juicy with generous shrimp stuffing and are a perfect match for firm noodles. The shop also offers tubtim krob to wash down the meal.
The price: B25-30.
325 Trok Wang Lang, 089-944-8024. Open Daily (closed every other Sunday) 7am-5pm.

Khao Chae Phetchaburi

Khao chae is a rare, traditional, refreshing dish that is usually only available in the summer. But at Khao Chae Phetchaburi you can have this specialty any day.

The deal: Owner Yui is passionate about rare, traditional recipes. She learned the khao chae (jasmine rice in iced fragrant water to be eaten with side dishes) recipe from her family in Phetchaburi province, so you can count on her for an authentic, heat-quenching meal. The stall also offers krong krang (deep-fried sweet dough). And if you visit the stall in the cool season, you will also get a chance to eat look-choob, a sweet, colorful, fruit-shaped dessert.
The price: B20.
Trok Wang Lang.,08-5163-1866. Open Daily 9am-4pm.

Raan Pa Inn (Auntie Inn’s)

109 Trok Wang Lang, 02-412-6901. Open Daily 10am-6.30pm.
Many Isaan dishes are offered in the friendly, no-frills atmosphere. Seats on the ground floor are better, as the second floor is often crowded with office workers.

The deal: Somtam hoi dong (papaya salad with preserved cockle) is the top seller, and serves as a nice alternative for those who don’t like pla raa. You can play it safe and opt for somtam khai khem (papaya salad with salted egg). Grilled pork is good to order if you are on a health kick, since there’s no fat to be seen. Don’t forget to tell the staff if you can’t take the heat, because the saap food here can set your tongue on fire.
The price: B25-50.
Trok Wang Lang.,085-163-1866. Open Daily 9am-4pm.

Guisto

The “employee of the month” award must go to the shopkeeper of this bakery stall. The kind uncle here is very generous, as he will insist on you tasting his cakes, and won’t let you go till you do; a great chance to sample them all!

The deal: There are four or five kinds of old-fashioned, Thai-style cakes on offer daily. So instead of rich, creamy, chocolate cake, you have light and enjoyable items like coffee, sangkaya (Thai egg custard), and coconut cakes. Brownies are also a big seller.
The price: B20 for a pack of cake, B40 for brownie.
Guisto Trok Wang Lang, in front of Amnuey Ice Cream House, 086-030-4142, 02-412-9594. Open Mon-Fri 11am-2pm.

When the sun goes down, tourists and bargain hunters alike know there’s only one place to head to: the Suan Lum Night Bazaar. Built on the 120 rai grounds of an old military academy, it is a celebrated shopping hub for thousands of racks of hip clothing, stylish furniture, handicrafts and numerous restaurants. Despite the rumors that the market is about to close in April, it continues to attract many tourists and local passersby everyday.

The market has two main sections named after two well-known provinces—Ayudhya and Lopburi. Strolling along the Lopburi side first, we find a heap of classic leather bags at Good Old Days (No. 462 Lopburi Soi 7, 08-6064-3141. Open daily 4-11:30pm). If you are looking for a prop to complete your James Bond image, look no further. From handbags to briefcases, the shop has it all on offer at B2,900 to B6,500. Visa and MasterCard are also accepted.

After walking in and out of a lot of clothing shops, trying real hard to keep our banknotes in place, we almost give in to a super-glamorous shop called His Story (No. 116 Lopburi Soi 8, 08-9000-2999. Open daily 6-11pm. www.hisstorybkk.com). The place offers shirts, jackets, pants and shoes with prices starting from B1,290. The classy white lace jacket (B4,500) is particularly hard to resist. However, if neat and clean is not your style, check Rock Bitch Mafia Sound (Lopburi Soi 4, Open daily 5-11pm). This rastafarian shop focuses only on colorful T-shirts (B300-500), big loose jeans and rainbow ski hats. If you prefer vintage clothes, drop by Siscily’s Me (Lopburi Soi 4, 08-6307-3497. Open daily 6:30-11:30pm) and try on one of its dresses. Prices range from B490 to B590, with a 10% discount for BK readers.

Moving on to the rear of the Lopburi zone, there are numerous furniture options for you to choose from, including modern, retro and oriental styles. Hiding in Zone C, away from the other furniture shops is a wide warehouse-like store called Retro Chairs (Zone C7, 08-1503-4172. Open daily 4-11pm), which sells imported and handmade sitting pieces, tables, lamps and chandeliers. Prices range from B1,000 to B100,000.

Moving into Ayudhya, we found one interesting CD shop with a very friendly shopkeeper. Though he may not be as cool as the famed Doreme auntie, the trader at The Garage Record (Ayudhya Soi 5, 08-1838-8212. Open daily 5pm-midnight) has racks of jazz, bossa nova, blues and soul CDs. Vinyl records (starting at B4,000) from the owner’s collection are also available.

Wandering through the innumerable rows and junctions for half an hour, we happened upon a little wooden shop in the middle of Ayudhya Soi 5. Vintage violins on display drew our attention. The old shopkeeper there says he “only sells imported ones, all secondhand.” At The Violin Shop (Ayudhya Soi 5, Open daily 5-11pm), you can find fiddles from Italy, France and Germany. The shop also offers repair and tuning services.

As in the Lopburi zone, most of the area in Ayudhya is occupied by women’s wear. Out of the numerous stalls, Moulage (Ayudhya Soi 4, 08-1985-6186. Open daily 6pm-midnight) is one shop that stands out with trendy tomboy items and can save you money at the same time. Shirts cost just B490, ties are B200 and bibs start at B280. So it’s affordable too.

Last but not least, if you are looking for a souvenir for a farang friend, take a minute to check out Ex-Planning (Ayudhya Soi 4, 02-978-6896. Open daily 4-11:30pm. www.zakkathailand.com). There are hundreds of tiny wooden dolls for you to choose from. Magnets, mobile straps or name card stands: everything is only B60 a piece.

Essentials

Suan Lum Night Bazaar is on the corner of Rama 4 and Wireless Road. Open daily 3pm-midnight (but most shops open around 6pm).
Buses no. 13, 14, 17, 22, 45, 46, 47, 50, 62, 74, 76, 106, 109, 115, 116,
MRT Lumpini

We all know how much we love hubs, and it seems the latest lifestyle trend is precincts that are basing themselves around food. It’s no longer the case that the only good food in the suburbs comes from Kopitiams. Several neighborhoods have revamped themselves to embrace a more cosmopolitan and vibrant feel—all based around restaurants, cafes and bars. Here are some of the places that have had the makeover and found their groove thang.

Wine and Dine: River Valley

The sheer diversity of cuisines available in River Valley and its proximity to several condominiums mean that the area is a hotspot for expats and yuppies seeking a lively but sophisticated atmosphere. River Valley is definitely more of a hot spot at night than in the day, with the exception of Great World City, which is, of course, packed during the day on weekends. The vibe when the sun goes down is of relaxed but decadent enjoyment of food, booze and good conversation as patrons linger over courses and order rounds of drinks to unwind after a working week. And the caliber of the tenants ensures that this is a mid- to high-end hangout spot that’s a little uppity.

The past 12 months has seen River Valley turn into a veritable hub for fastidious foodies. For a start, Mohamed Sultan Road has transformed from a has-been nightspot to a haven of small but reliable little restaurants including a pizzeria run by the folks of Oso and a Vietnamese restaurant. Down the road at lifestyle precinct The Pier @ Robertson, all the shops are now fully tenanted with the latest additions being (another) Harry’s Bar and Belgian brasserie Brussels Sprouts. This pocket (that also has a Japanese robataya restaurant, a wine bar, a whisky shop, a French brasserie and a chocolatier) has a convival but not rowdy vibe in the evenings as yuppies and corporate types unwind over beer or wine. This is not a spot for a quick drink, rather, a place to take it easy for a few hours, ordering food as you go.

Even Great World City has recently seen a blossoming in their food and beverage tenants. For those who prefer to cook at home, last year saw the inclusion of Archangel upstairs and Espirito Santo in the basement (along with a handful of other tenants including a newly renovated Cold Storage) to their list of shops.

Archangel

#03-33 Great World City, 1 Kim Seng Promenade, 6836-4424.
For the lazy gourmet: Imagine fine dining meals that you just pick up, reheat and present to impress your guests. Dips, chocolates, desserts and savory items, as well as full meals, are all ready to go.

Brussels Sprouts

#01-02 The Pier @ Robertson, 80 Mohamed Sultan Rd., 6887-4344.
Mussels, beer, good food and good friends at this Belgian brasserie; what more could you ask for?

Le Tonkin

18 Mohamed Sultan Rd., 6235-6006.
Finally, interesting and unusual Vietnamese combinations as well as decent pho at this Vietnamese and French restaurant—hallelujah!

The Chocolate Factory

#01-11 The Pier @ Robertson, 80 Mohamed Sultan Rd., 6235-9007.
Heavenly, sweet and decadent, The Chocolate Factory is any chocoholics dream.

Robataya Yoyogi

#01-04 The Pier @ Robertson, 80 Mohamed Sultan Rd., 6733-2711.
Japanese grilled bits served on long paddles make a good accompaniment to a few sakes.

Also check out:

Harry’s @ The Pier Robertson, #01-07/09 The Pier @ Robertson, 80 Mohamed Sultan Rd.

La Maison Du Whisky Singapore, #01-10 #01-07/09 The Pier @ Robertson, 80 Mohamed Sultan Rd., 6733-0059.

Papi, 5 Mohamed Sultan Rd., 6732-6269.

Reif + James, #01-03 The Pier @ Robertson, 80 Mohamed Sultan Rd., 6238-8817.

Tasting Notes, #01-05/06 The Pier @ Robertson, 80 Mohamed Sultan Rd., 6238-8840.

Chill Out: Serangoon Gardens

For a vibrant and unpretentious nightspot to eat, drink and make merry with your mates, Serangoon Gardens has gotten it just right. In particular, the little pocket of Serangoon Gardens Village has a charming alfresco dining area with a nice buzz after dark. While many of the individual tenants may not be all that unusual (although there is a good Western restaurant here), their patrons make the Village a surprisingly happening spot.

Young yuppie types from surrounding suburbs like Hougang, Serangoon and Ang Mo Kio head down to Serangoon Gardens to debrief or catch up over a few drinks and some good food. The result is a chill out spot that’s prettily lit with candles and lights at night as old friends dish out the week’s gossip. Even mid-week evenings see the place buzzing (although during the day the area can seem quite dead).

Around the corner at Kensington Park Road, one can also find a few decent eateries to sink your teeth into.

The Cafe Cartel

#01-01B Paramount Building, Serangoon Gardens Village, 1 Maju Ave., 6285-8266.
Their sign says it all. Ribs, pizza, pasta and, of course, caffeine.

ICE3

11 Kensington Park Rd., 6282-8126.
To chill out over ice cream and all other things sweet, try this little sweetie.

The Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf

#01-01/03 Serangoon Gardens Village, 1 Maju Ave., 6487-0040.
Long chats are best held over coffee, whether iced or flavored.

Friends at Chomp Chomp

#01-01A Serangoon Gardens Village, 1 Maju Ave., 6289-2600.
Don’t let its unpretentious aura fool you: Friends serves pretty fine Western food with regular wine tastings to boot.

Also check out:

Happy Daze Sidewalk Deli, 11 Maju Ave., 6285-2885.

Ristorante de Parma, 14-B Kensington Park Rd., 6280-1096.

Sticky Rice, 5 Kensington Park Rd., 6284-6266.

Dinner Party Divas: East Coast

Contrary to the popular opinion of everyone who doesn’t live in the east, East Coast isn’t that far removed from the rest of us. In fact, it’s recently become a drawing card for those looking for some real gourmet shopping.

The combination of middle to upper income wealth types and know-how foodies in this area mean that tenants demand quality products, so that’s what’s here: Parkway Parade now boasts an epicurean section in its basement complete with specialized Japanese grocer, Latin deli and butcher with dine-in menu, and a Cold Storage Gourmet. There’s also a wine shop that encourages its patrons to buy and drink in the store, an Italian gelateria and a Swiss bakery. Parkway Parade has become the perfect one-stop food shopping destination for those on the eastern side of the island.

And around the corner, Katong Village (which used to be home to stale government buildings once upon a time) has attracted a few new restaurants as well as a handful of snooker halls, making it a worthy destination for evenings out.

Espirito Santo

#B1-83B Parkway Parade, 80 Marine Parade Rd., 6440-8867.
For sausages, steaks and all things meaty, this branch of Espirito Santo also has a small café serving up hot dishes for the hungry shopper.

Fish Mart SAKURAYA

#B1-83D Parkway Parade, 80 Marine Parade Rd., 6345-4714.
There’s nothing fishy about this specialized Japanese grocer that also has a small sushi bar on the premises.

Samba Brazilian Steakhouse

#01-37/39 Katong Village, 86 East Coast Rd., 6348-8406.
Samba delivers Brazilian churrascaria to make your taste buds salsa.

Samy’s Curry Restaurant

Katong Village, 83 East Coast Rd., 6345-1726.
This veritable institution from Dempsey Road has now opened a second branch for you to get your hands dirty.

Also check out:

Bottle & Bottles, #B1-83K/L Parkway Parade, 80 Marine Parade Rd., 6348-2847.

Swiss Bake, #B1-83C Parkway Parade, 80 Marine Parade Rd., 6440-7055.

Venezia Gelato Italiano, #B1-83J Parkway Parade, 80 Marine Parade Rd.

Waraku, #01-11/12/13 Blk. B Katong Village, 86 East Coast Rd., 6344-8280.

List of the best the hot spots in Clarke Quay

Beyond The 'Burbs

45 Minutes Out of Town

Bottle Tree Village
Where: 60 Jalan Mempurong, off Sembawang Rd., 6752-6953. Open daily 11am-11pm.
How to get there: Taxi.
What to eat: Chinese seafood. Think steamed fish, buttered prawns, black pepper crab—you get the picture!
What to drink: Ice cold beer.
Why come here: To look at the funky bottle trees and cycads the owner has cultivated, which you don’t see anyone else growing.
Related to: Bottle Tree Park in Yishun (you wouldn’t have guessed, would you!)

30 Minutes Out of Town

Austwine
What: An Australian bottle shop with a café
Where: At Farmart Center, a farmers’ collective. 67 Sungei Tengah Rd. (in Chao Chu Kang), 6219-9897. Café open Mon-Sat 3pm-4am; Sun 11am-4am.
How to get there: Taxi.
What to eat: Western menu, specialties are pork knuckle, cheese sausage, and fish and chips.
What to drink: But wine, of course!
Why come here: This is a great place to pick up some good Aussie wine and have a leisurely meal while you’re at it.

Petals and Leaf Bistro
Where: Nyee Phoe Flower Garden, 240 Neo Tiew Crescent, 6793-6500; close to Sungei Buloh Wetland Reserve. Open daily 9am-6pm.
How to get there: Take the train to Kranji MRT and then a taxi. Bus 925 runs from Kranji station on Sundays and holidays to the bistro.
What to eat: Their menu is a combo of Western and local food—the fish and chips, fried rice and laksa come recommended.
What to drink: Wine, beer, cider.
Why come here: Short of trekking across the Causeway, this is the closest you get to countryside in Singapore. You can also pick up gorgeous plants from the nursery to take back to your flat.

20 Minutes Out of Town

Union Farm Eating House
Where: 435A Clementi Rd., 6466-2776.
How to get there: Bus 151 from Hougang or Kent Ridge Terminuses. Get off at either Ngee Ann Polytechnic or Maju Camp. The old-school Union Farm is the only kampong-like building left on this busy main road—you can’t miss it.
What to eat: “Paper wrap” chicken, noodles in oyster sauce (simple but done really well); and hard-to-find poultry like pigeon and quail.
What to drink: Beer, Chinese tea.
Why come here: This restaurant has been around for about 40 years—it’s clearly serving great food.­

With the bars and clubs at The Cannery pumping every night of the week, Clarke Quay is now the “it” precinct to party in. Even the seemingly endless rain of the last few weeks hasn’t deterred punters, with The Clinic, Kandi Bar, and other hot new places like a Scottish pub Highlander and microbrewery The Pump Room, packing them in. Relative old-timers Attica and MoS and enjoying this wave of popularity too.

Adding to the vibe is the live music played in the center of the new development. With people spilling out of various bars, club and restaurants, this is a heaving, happening space to catch some tunes or just catch up with your mates. Those who prefer to chill out over a nice meal and a glass of wine need not fret either. Clarke Quay has a well-balanced mix of cuisines on offer from Indian to Mongolian to Balinese to molecular gastronomy.

There’re far too many tenants for us to list them all, but here are our tips for if you have a very limited time in Clarke Quay.

Most Novel Dining Concept:

Aurum, #01-03 The Cannery, Blk 3C Clarke Quay, River Valley Rd., 6887-3733.

Best Food:

IVORY The Indian Kitchen, #02-04 Clarke Quay, 3A River Valley Rd., 6333-4664.

Best Place to Dance:

Ministry of Sound, #01-02/07 & #02-01/08 The Cannery, Blk C Clarke Quay, River Valley Rd., 6235-2292.

Hottest New Bar:

Clinic, The Cannery, Blk C Clarke Quay, River Valley Rd., 6887-3733.

Best Place to Chill:

Kandi Bar, The Cannery, Blk C Clarke Quay, River Valley Rd., 6887-3733.

Best Live Music:

Crazy Elephant, #01-03/04 Clarke Quay, 3E River Valley Rd., 6337-7859.

Best Place for a Few Laughs:

1NiteStand Bar & Comedy Club, #01-04 Block 3A Clark Quay, River Valley Rd., 6334-1954.

Nai Chia

In front of Kasikorn Bank, Yaowarat Branch, 08-6340-1492, 08-1917-8439. Open daily around the clock
Apparently, chestnuts are more popular than we thought. Or else Nai Chia wouldn’t have carried on roasting them for almost half a decade. Like 7-Eleven, this street vendor is open all day, everyday.
The deal: Nai Chia does only one thing—roast chestnuts. It takes a laborious 40 minutes to roast the nuts in a huge pan over hot sand. The hawker opts for Japanese chestnuts that are smaller than the Chinese counterpart, but are said to be sweeter. Feel free to ask for samples, but don’t get too close to that sizzling pan.
The price: B200 per kilo.

Jae Auan Raat Naa

In front of Sri Thong Gold Shop, 08-1633-5102. Open Tue-Sun 6:30pm-3am
With 20 years of experience in the business, this raat naa stall with a wide following has just expanded its fan base, winning the most votes from viewers of Channel 3’s Sud Dej Prathet Thai as the best raat naa hawker in Bangkok.
The deal: Tender pork, crisp veggies and tasty gravy are the three rules of thumb of Jae Auan. For best flavor and texture, the lady owner and her husband marinate the pork overnight. Though the stir-fried noodles in gravy are the stars here, you also have it good with pad see iew (stir-fried noodles with egg and pork).
The price: B30-50. Jae Auon also sells her marinated pork at B180 per kilo.

Stir-Fried Chicken Noodles (no official name)

Trok Issaranuphap, Open daily 8pm-1am
Despite its hidden location, this hole in the wall has been around for half a decade and can get pretty crowded since there are only a few tables. The stall has no official name, but the vendor who also doubles as a cook prefers us to mention his stall as “Golden Wok Chicken Noodles,” so Golden Wok Chicken Noodles it is.

The deal: No phone number, no reservations. It’s first-come-first-served here, and the surly waitress makes sure everyone is served. The moment you seat yourself, she brings each and everyone on the table a bowl of kuay tiew kua kai. Don’t bother to order or object because she will stubbornly serve you anyway, even if you just want to accompany your hungry friend. On the bright side, the chicken noodles are scrumptious.
The price: B30-50.

Hua Seng Hong

371-373 Yaowarat Rd., near Lieng Seng Heng gold shop, 02-222-7053, Open daily 8-1am. www.huasenghong.co.th

Equipped with many cooking booths, outside is where all the action takes place. Inside is a long, low-ceiling hallway, which sometimes feels a bit claustrophobic, filled with roars of locals and Chinese tourists. There’s nothing to write home about the decor, fortunately. That’s not the case for its food.
The deal: The menu offers gargantuan Chinese dishes with shark’s fin soup, braised goosefeet in a clay pot and steamed crab with glass noodles as the highlights. However, there are more affordable choices like BBQ pork noodles and rice topped with roast duck. Though on offer all day, dim sum tends to run out in the evening, so it’s wise to drop by before 6pm.
The price: B30-1,000.

Nai Lek Auan Kuay Jub

In front of the Old Market, Yaowarat Rd., 02-224-3450, 08-1611-6920. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-12:30am
It’s a war! This tiny vendor with less than eight tables is the hot favorite of diners from all walks of life, so chances are you have to squeeze in a table with university students, race to grab a chair, or fight with a hiso big-hair lady before enjoying its kuay jub. Drop by and don’t forget your patience.

The deal: Like other kuay jub stalls, Nai Lek Auan serves its rice noodles with pork entrails and crispy moo krob. But it’s the fragrant clear soup, packed with kicks of pepper that sets the difference. These appetizing noodles work well as a cure for the flu.
The price: B30-40.

Aun Pochana

In the front of New Leam Thong theater (China Town Rama), Yaowarat Rd., 08-9130-3352. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-3am.
If a long wait at Nai Lek Auan’s puts you off, Aun Pochana is a good alternative. Head to one of the tables on the footpath for breathing space, or opt for a table inside the defunct theater if you don’t want to play hide and seek with the staff.
The deal: Similar to Nai Lek Auan, Aun Pochana is known for its aromatic peppery broth. You can also order fish maw soup from the adjacent cart to go with your rice noodles.
The price: B30-40.

Bua Loi Nam Khing (no official name)

Across from Watson’s, Yaowarat Rd.,08-7019-3170. Open Tue-Sun 7pm-2am
This dessert stall spreads the tables on the street. The vendor can speak only broken Chinese, but that’s enough to take orders from the customers from the Mainland.
The deal: Hot and cold Chinese-style dessert to wash down the meal. There are gingko seeds, black sesame dumplings and bean curd to be paired with your choice of fresh milk, ginger soup or longan juice.
The price: B40-80.

Toast (no official name)

Across from Jae Auan Raat Naa and Bank of Ayudhya, Yaowarat Rd., 08-7598-0888, 08-1492-5131. Open Tue-Sun 6:30pm-midnight
You will be lured to this stall by the sweet aroma of buttered toast. Though there are a few tables to welcome seated customers, the young crowd that makes up the majority of its regulars often order takeaways.
The deal: The stall offers “crispy” toast and “soft” steamed buns. Top it off with sangkaya (Thai egg custard), chocolate, pineapple or strawberry jam. The kind uncle doesn’t mind if you order coffee or hot milk from the adjoining stall.
The price: B7-8.

T&K Seafood

49-51 Soi Phadung Dao, 02-223-4519, 08-1507-5555. Open daily 4:30pm-2am
Named after initials of the couple owners, Toy and Kid, T&K Seafood is one of the long-standing seafood stalls in Yaowarat. However, it is more widely known as “the green shop” since the staff all put on green aprons. Plenty of seating available in and outside the restaurant.
The deal: Expect everything sea-related from oysters to shark fin. The energetic servers often force a hard sell, passing menus to passers by. But once you agree to settle at the stall, they turn out to be nice and attentive, providing so many recommendations that make you eat more than you should. Wait, is that also one of their tactics?
The price: B100-500.

Chinese New Year promotions

The Chinese Restaurant (Grand Hyatt Erawan, Rachadamri Rd., 02-254-1234 ext 3070. Open daily noon-2:30pm, 6:30-10pm. www.bangkok.grand.hyatt.com) gives you the choice of delicious Cantonese set or a la carte menu with stuffed crab claw, shark’s fin soup, oyster and sea moss in brown sauce and much more.

The Empress (Royal Princess Larn Luang Hotel, Larn Luang Rd., 02-281-3088 ext 147. Open daily 11am-2:30pm, 6-10pm) is celebrating two February festivities, Valentine’s Day and Chinese New Year, with its 10-course menu for two (B6,500-B20,000). The menu is available for both lunch and dinner throughout the month.

Liu (The Conrad Hotel, Wireless Rd., 02-690-9999. www.conradbangkok.com). Master chef Wong Kam Yao is introducing special Salt Baked Chicken for family diners this Chinese New Year. Other Chinese New Year specials include Shanghai stewed pork leg and sautéed garoupa fillet, which are all available Feb 16 to Feb 23.

Man Ho (JW Marriott Hotel, Sukhumvit Soi 2, 02-656-7700 ext 4245. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-10:30pm) is celebrating Chinese New Year with five Cantonese culinary sets;\: Sawasdee Pee Mai (B9,000), Ngeun Thong Lai Ma (B11,000), Chok Larb Mark Mee (B13,000), Mung Mee See Suk (B16,000), and Rung Reung Taloadpee (B30,800). The sets are available from Feb 18-20.

Mei Jiang (The Peninsula Bangkok, Charoennakorn Rd., 02-861-2888. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-10pm. www.peninsula.com) is offering two special Chinese New Year set menus from Feb 10-25. The Fortune Menu (B1680) pampers you with a great selection of seafood dishes. Wealth Menu (B1980) fills your stomach with some supreme shark’s fin and lobster soup, roasted duck, steamed crab claws and more.

Siang Ping Loh (8/F, Grand China Princess Hotel, Yaowarat Rd., 02-224-9977 ext 338, 303. Open daily 11am-2:30pm, 6-10pm. www.grandchina.com) is celebrating Chinese New Year throughout the month of February with a special menu. Try their shark’s fin soup and grilled snowfish with soya sauce.

Since its inauguration in 1932 on the occasion of the 150th anniversary of the Rattanakosin era, Rama 1 Memorial Bridge (a.k.a. Sapan Poot) has been one of the most popular trading centers in town. By day, the bridge is but a link between Phranakorn and Thonburi, but when night falls, it turns into a busy, packed marketplace where you can find all kinds of clothes from secondhand jeans to hip T-shirts and even get your portrait, a tattoo or a piercing.

Being an early bird is not a good idea here. Most stalls open around 7pm and peak time doesn’t start until 9pm or a bit earlier on Fridays and Saturdays. The market stays packed with people as late as 1-2am. Be warned that the market is closed every Monday.

There are many buses that stop there or nearby, but a cab is still the best option if you are not in the mood for a little stroll. Starting at the Phranakorn end of the bridge, you’ll find a heap of stalls along both sides of the street, one of which deserves special mention. Facing the river, turn left, then walk for 200 meters and you’ll find it on your left. There lie T-shirts with catchy quotes usually found on the back of trucks (B100, and cheaper if you know how to bargain). We loved the “Rakna Dek-ngow” one.

From there, go straight to the guitar shop (08-1711-9554) that not only sells axes (both acoustic and electric at B790-890) but also harmonicas (B120-220) and guitar strings, and provides guitar repair services. Go on for about 100 meters and you’ll see a junction on your left where Sapan Poot River Market has recently opened. This clean and wide building gives off a great impression but it turns out that the three-story plaza is just too new. The first floor is literally empty while all the sellers on the second floor abandon their shops to watch soaps on a TV near the landing. Seems working people, students and dek naew alike enjoy street-side secondhand stuff more.

In front of the plaza, there are lots of secondhand shoes and bags but also some new things. One interesting stall sells brand new authentic Converse All Stars at cheaper rates than department stores. Prices are B750-1,990, depending on the style.

Like Chatuchak, cute trinkets can be found, too. Stroll down the road and take a tour of the back rows where you’ll find some nice pieces like at Tien Hom Tee Sud Nai Lok (08-1692-7713) that sells fragrant candles in handmade pots (B59 and B120). One stall nearby sells handmade key chains (08-9151-1430/-7, B39 and B59). And another has numerous styles of dog clothing (08-7925-5593), with prices ranging from B50-550.

Hungry? Take a short break after shopping and walk back to the junction. Kai Pla Mueg Naam Jim Rod Ded’s (08-4909-7423) fried squid eggs’ foamy sauce is truly delicious (B20-30). To refresh yourself, keep an eye out for passing trolleys. You may see Chaoguay Lanyamo, a cart stocked with glasses of Thai-style black jelly on ice.

Do’s & Don’t’s

Do: Bargain. It’s a must.

Don’t: Go alone. It’s a night market, you could get pickpocketed at any time, or even buy the wrong size.

Do: Wear light clothes, take a fan and
carry a bottle of water. It’s hot.

Don’t: Think about taking a bus to Thonburi side and walk here to save some money. It’s a hassle and not worth it.

Do: Check before you buy. Some goods may be broken, tainted or irreparably ugly.

Don’t: Go on Monday. It’s closed!

In 1999, a driving range on Prachanivet 1 Road was transformed into a new-concept fresh market—clean and convenient—and filled with vendors who suffered from the economic crisis. Over several years Bon Marché has built up a large following among discerning cooks. But it’s not just a fresh market anymore: Bon Marche has been expanded into a community mall with a shopping plaza, education institute, financial pavilion, café and wellness center.

Its six zones are located surrounding a fountain with the renowned Bon Market at the front. Vendors of fresh vegetables, fruits, imported meat, royal project products, bakeries, plastic ware and beauty products line the aisles, which are wide, clean and also convenient for those in wheelchairs. Even if you’re not shopping for raw ingredients, there is still plenty of food. The buns at Pen Bakery (02-933-8611) are yummy and inexpensive (B20 per bag). Gelato (B40 per scoop) is served fresh at Dream Cones (02-616-9951, www.dreamcones.com); while meat lovers would do well to head to Bon Beef (08-9533-7285) for take-home Aussie meats. For a full meal, the Bon Food Court serves international meals from Vietnamese to Laotian—just don’t go comparing it with the Food Loft (it’s a little more DIY than that).

Further to the left is the Bon Service building, which has a bank on the first floor and La Beauté (#A218-221, 2/F, Bon Service, 02-158-0256. Open daily 8am-8pm) on the second. This pharmacy is a local version of Boots with a selection of beauty products from Paul Mitchell to Roc. The shop is also an official distributor of Tahitian Noni Products, which offer everything from beverages to skincare products. Behind this is the royal project’s Phu Fah (#A243-244, 2/F, Bon Service) outlet selling folk products. Some of them are not that old, and they’re even interesting.

Bon Jewelry is where jewelry shops abound, mostly the kind aunties love. Sakura (1/F, Bon Jewelry, 08-9165-1662) sells colorful petite-et-jolie pendants and accessories for young girls.

The nearby four-story Bon Plaza mainly targets an older, auntie crowd; however Be Jorn (#B147, 1/F, Bon Plaza), Ibis Collection (#B248, 2/F, Bon Plaza, 08-1666-5055) and Baby Baba Bobo (#B220, 2/F, Bon Plaza, 08-1346-6828, 08-1618-1969) have cute and sweet women’s wear and accessories. Arika Shop (#B253, 2/F, Bon Plaza, 08-1316-6861) is good for imported Japanese-style products ranging from plaid dresses to ice cube trays. Best bargain bags at Amy (#B106, 1/F, Bon Plaza, 08-1250-6389) are all B199, but make sure you choose the right ones. Fleur (#B258, 2/F, Bon Plaza, 08-1647-4340) produces natural skincare products while Sharina (#B271, 2/F, Bon Plaza) offers tailor-made watchstraps made from genuine leather. Sleek vases and decorative items can be found at Merry Life (#C211, 08-9494-1191).

The third floor is home to educational institutes including Gourmet Club (3/F, Bon Plaza, 02-954-2295, 08-1932-4301, www.gourmetclubthai.com), a cooking school offering expertise on Thai, European, Japanese and desserts. On the forth floor is Leaders Fitness (4/F, Bon Plaza, 02-580-2211, www.leadersfitness.com) where selections of classes ranging from aerobics to yoga, plus spa treatments, are available.

After wandering throughout the mall (even without shopping bags!), it’s worth taking a rest at Café du Lac (between Bon Plaza and Bon Restaurant). Sit and stew with a book (perhaps from nearby North Shop, #B118-119, 1/F, Bon Plaza) and a cup of tea (B40). Though Bon Marché may not be your type of regular retail therapy, with the browsing options and activities available there, it’s a good place to enjoy a break from your usual shopping routine.

ESSENTIALS

Bon Marché is located 500 meters down Prachanivat 1 Road from Viphavadi Rangsit Road. Plenty of parking is available. To get there by bus, take number 29, 134 or 510 from BTS Mor Chit to Wat Samian Nari, then walk, get a motorcycle or songtaew bus. Shops are open daily 8am to 6:30pm.

Judging by the throngs at VivoCity, we’re guessing that practically every Singaporean has been there by now. Besides lining your shopping bags with good buys, you can line your stomachs with great food. From Japanese to German, chocolates to teacakes, modern Thai food to café bites, VivoCity’s got it all. Here’s where you can go when you need an energy boost.

Aji by Hanabi

#01-158, 1 HarbourFront Walk, 6376-9788.
This modern Japanese restaurant looks impressive. Classy, sleek, minimalistic, with lacquered tables, a stunning waterfront view, and soothing Japanese music, it is a joy to be in. And we were just as impressed with the quality of the food, which is inspired, creative, different and tasty. The grilled red snapper with capsicums ($18) was a lovely creation of crispy, deep-fried red snapper seasoned with cream, soy sauce, chili and wasabi. The textures were great and the flavors blended well. We suggest you try the grilled beef with Japanese herbs ($22)—an elaborate construction of crispy, fried noodles, with medium-rare beef nestled in the middle and crunchy slices of sweet potato around. Also try the pan fried goose liver with radish ($18). Eat the goose liver and the radish in the same mouthful and you’ll experience the dish at its best. End your meal with the green tea ice-cream and red bean paste ($6). Open Mon-Thu 11:30am-3pm, 6-10:30pm; Fri 11:30am-3pm, 6-11pm (last order at 10:30pm); Sat 11:30am-11pm; Sun 11:30-10:30pm.

Brotzeit

#01-149/151, 1 HarbourFront Walk, 6272-8815.
This enormous, airy German restaurant is a bier (beer) bar and restaurant. The German beers are brewed according to the Purity Law of 1516, and include well-known ones like Paulaner. This restaurant uses a lot of warm, woody surfaces, with dark, wooden pull-out benches. The amiable Chef de Cuisine, Hans Lüftenegger, recommended a few specialties. The gulaschsuppe ($7.50) is spicy beef goulash served with a huge pretzel, and is an excellent appetizer. No one eats at a German restaurant without trying the sausages, so we had gänseleberwurst—goose liver sausage with German spätzle, cranberry sauce and red cabbage ($26.50). The sausages were tender and juicy and the spätzle (a concoction of flour and egg cooked in water) was addictive. If you like spätzle, you’ll want to order the käsespatzle ($14.90), a Bavarian specialty of homemade spätzle and topped with melted cheese and onion rings. It’s pretty filling, so share it with your friends! Germany is the home of black forest cake, so you might want to end your meal with that. The schwarzwälderkirschtorte as it’s called, is made up of chocolate sponge cake, cherries and whipped cream. Check out the wall mural behind the bar while you’re there. It’s very German, whimsical and even has the Merlion and Sir Raffles in it! Open daily noon-12am.

Thai Accent

#02-145/146, 1 HarbourFront Walk, 6376-9282.
Authentic and not-too-expensive Thai food is pretty hard to find, but Thai Accent fits the bill. Tastefully decorated and brand new, this spacious restaurant has a modern, fresh approach to Thai cuisine. If you like slightly salty curries, the green chicken curry ($12.90) is good to start with. The flavor was robust, and the chicken soft and juicy. We tried the tom yam prawn soup ($9.90) and were pleased with the delectable soup, fresh prawns and crunchy straw mushrooms. Another restaurant fave was the crispy catfish with mango salad ($11.90). Fried to crispy, golden perfection, the catfish was incredibly light, with an almost airy consistency. The mango salad is tangy and moist—which provides the perfect balance. Try the stir-fried minced chicken with hot basil leaves, served with rice and a sunny-side up egg ($11.90). Check out some Thai desserts too—the water chestnut served with coconut milk ($3.90) and mango sticky rice ($6.90). The former is swimming with generous, large pieces of water chestnut and the latter is a gorgeous mix of sweet mango and milky glutinous rice. If the waiting time gets slightly long, be patient—because the food is honestly good. Open Mon-Thu 11:30am-3pm, 6-10pm; Fri-Sun 11:30am-10pm.

White Dog Café

#02-131/132, 1 HarbourFront Walk, 6376-9970.
This is a great place to rest after you’ve walked a long way. This one-month-plus old funky café boasts a wide selection of cakes, muffins, appetizers, pizzas, pastas, main courses, ice-blended drinks, smoothies, frappes and loads more. The crisp soft shell crab ($8.50) started our meal and in Japanese-style with wasabi tobiko and lime sauce. The calamari rings which arrived with it deserve special mention because they are huge, crispy, fried just enough and tender. Pasta lovers should try the crabmeat linguini ($16.90), which has quite a lot of crab meat, crunchy pasta and a yummy tomato cream sauce with white wine, chili and onions. The warm chocolate cake served with a scoop of vanilla ice cream ($6.80) and the mocha frappe ($6.90) make a filling, rich end to a very decent meal. An added bonus is that this café uses no pork nor lard in its preparation. Open Mon-Sun 11:30am-10pm (last food order 10pm, last beverage order 10:30pm).

Godiva

#01-116, 1 HarbourFront Walk, 6273-1611.
This new outlet is done up in a sophisticated, appealing fashion with open shelves in white oak and ceiling-high cabinet showcases. You’ll find droolsome delicacies such as chocolate-dipped candied fruit ($22 per 100g), as well as Chocolixir beverages ($8). These come in dark, white and milk flavors, and are only available here and Godiva’s CityLink outlet. Choose from the mind-boggling range of truffles ($26 per 100g), pralines ($22 per 100g), dipped strawberries ($9 per piece), caraques ($22 per 100g), cookies ($22 onwards per box) and biscuits ($22 onwards per box). Sinfully irresistible. Open Mon-Thu 10am-10pm; Fri-Sat 10am-10:30pm; Sun 10am-10pm.

Corduroy Café

#01-106, 1 HarbourFront Walk, 6376-9895.
You’ll be taken with the lovely interior of this European-styled milk bar and bakery that looks both contemporary and old world. Filled with soft, plush armchairs, shining mirrors and adorned with sepia-toned photographs, it’s a comfy place to relax with friends while tucking into custom-blended drinks and tasty teatime treats. And, you’ll find salads, sandwiches, soup, smoothies, pastries and cakes here too. The Corduroy Café Club sandwich ($12) is a nice bet and so is the beef stroganoff pie ($7). Try the tempting confectionaries that are laid out prettily at the counter. The apple rhubarb crumble with vanilla custard ($6.80) tastes as good as it looks. With names such as nutty muddy ($6.50), chocolate royal ($6.50) and zesty lemon tart ($6), you’ll be hard pressed to choose. Watch out for Corduroy’s special milk concoctions that feature milk in flavors like banana, berry dream, pear cinnamon and many more. Open Mon-Thu 10:30am-11pm; Fri-Sun 10:30am-12am.

GreenSpace (Heineken)

The place: The Central World Plaza, Ratchadamri Rd. Open daily 6pm-midnight.

The scene: Plain and simple. This year the big H hasn’t done much to the place in comparison to last year. They have a DJ booth, a moderate size stage, proper light and sound systems, food booths and all the typical offerings. Nine fans throughout the area disperse the heat.

The show: Each night is themed differently, featuring different types of music, including Rock Your World, Jazzy Fiesta and Retro Party. After the well known singers finish entertaining, the unknown but fair enough will take care of you for the rest of the night together with DJs.

The vibe: Fun-loving. Most of the people here are not sipping beers—they’re chugging.

The grub: Nine restaurants have set up booths this year: H&K Avenue Steak, Maxim’s (Western), Sam Muk, Thang Long, Plai Ngarm, Viset Gai Yang, Yuu (Japanese), Page 35 (Western) and Ab Sab by Krour Thanyawan.

A must: Viset gai yang (B115/whole) isn’t bad. Wash it down with a tower of cold Heiny.

The price: Food is B50-200, popcorn and fried shrimp are B30, ice B30, beer B50/glass, B150/jug and B450/tower (3 liters).

Beware: The deep fried spicy mushroom (B60) if you don’t want to spoil your night. If you are in a rush to get drunk, this isn’t the place to do it as it’s severely understaffed. Be patient—good things come to those who wait.

Singha Beer Garden

The place: Central World Plaza, Ratchadamri Rd. Open daily 5pm-midnight.

The scene: Not too interesting. It’s great for people who want to really relax with their friends for a chat. Typical Singha décor with logos and yellow all over the place. Fans to reduce the heat in the air.

The show: Three bands nightly playing Thai and inter hot hits from today and yesterday.

The vibe: Most of people here are young and not-too-professional. The atmosphere isn’t that attractive, at all—people are more here to chill out and would prefer to sit and chat than groove and move. Plenty of staff on hand to wait on you.

The grub: Eight restaurants: Gai Yang Singha (international), Somtam Poosri, Krua Petchakasem, Time Out, Ta-lay, Sushi bar, Krua Gumlaithong and Muu Satay Jueng Ang Luk.

A must: The food is notably good here, especially the gai yang Singha (B110/whole) and crispy pork knuckle (B130-250).
The price: Food is B40-300, ice B10, Corona B150, Miller Draft Beer B120, Singha Beer B50/glass, B120/bottle, B130/jug and B390/tower (3 liters). Singha Light Beer B60/glass.

Beware: If you are looking to meet some cuties, this is not the place to do it. Plentiful staff but sometimes they’re in very bad moods so mind your words.

The Elephant Walk (Chang)

The place: Central World Plaza, Ratchadamri Rd. Open daily 5pm-midnight.

The scene: Cool and trendy bar concept. Two types of seating for you: very comfortable sofas on the right side and beer garden plastic chairs in the middle. The sofas are a very cool idea because they attract numerous clients who like the chill chill style. It’s just like a fantasy garden in your backyard with good beer and good music.

The show: Three house bands each night and special concert every Friday.

The vibe: Fresh and relaxed. Great place for young adults, who will enjoy the music and atmosphere.

The grub: Five restaurants: ZAPP…ZA, Seafood, Arharn Thai Puen Baan, Bpahnun and German Sausage.

A must: Pla sum rii phao (B250/whole) and tom yum ruam mid (B120) are delicious.

The price: Food is B50-300, ice B20, beer B380/tower (3 liters), B130/jug (1liter), B100/glass, B30/can.

Beware: Those drunk guys sitting at the next table. They’ve polished off two towers already and they’ve got that hungry look in their eyes...