Few cities have pulled off a river clean up quite as successfully as Singapore did almost three decades ago. But even today, few of us think of it as a destination of its own, the way we might about Sydney harbor or the San Fran waterfront. Despite endless “overhauls” (yawn) and “relaunches” over the years there’s still too many crappy venues, too much wasted space, and, frankly, it remains too much of a pain to get from one end to the other. That, though, looks like it’s all about to change.

Tyrone Tabing, Executive Director of the Singapore River One (SRO) organization (a recent ‘outgrowth’ of an Urban Redevelopment Authority consulting process) thinks there’s a “really exciting opportunity” at hand. The SRO’s plan, he explains, is to have “one voice for the precinct, to unify the three Quays while embracing the uniqueness of each.” And, sure enough, while his team busy themselves with clean-up operations of a different kind (together with the police force and various stakeholders they were behind the Better Singapore River Campaign, which has already scored some quick wins in cracking down on touting at Boat Quay), even bigger changes are afoot. In January, river taxis will begin offering a true ferry service between the Grand Copthorne Waterfront Hotel and the Marina Barrage, making a $3 commute to the CBD, or even an after-hours, boat-based bar hop, a real option. (Details are still hazy, but it looks like the enviro-friendly boats will run every 10-15 minutes from 7am-10pm, with more than a dozen landing points and regular, express and even bookable “taxi” services.) Looking even further ahead, when the dust settles at the construction site next to Brewerkz in 2017 there’ll be the shiny new Fort Canning MRT station (on the Downtown line) meaning you won’t have to trudge all the way from Central to get to Robertson Quay.Small wonder there’s already an SG River app in the works.

In advance of all that, there’s been a flurry of activity along the Robertson Blue stretch (essentially Kith Café all the way to Limoncello) over the last year, and it now gives even Tiong Bahru a run for its money in the laidback charm stakes. A $15.6 million facelift of Clarke Quay is currently underway, complete with a new heritage-inspired frontage and some 15 new F&B outlets by year-end, including sexy new St. Tropez-inspired bar Cassis, opening in November. Right next door, the space occupied by the old River Valley Swimming Pool reopened earlier this year as The Foothills Fort Canning, home to hip art space Galerie Utama and host, last month, of the über-cool Sub-Sonic Live party (From October 6-13, it’ll also be home to a pop-up pavilion as part of Archifest 2012).

Elsewhere, the tenant mix is starting to change. Central, long known principally for its Japanese food joints (including newbie Zero.Zero and Osaka’s Chíso Zanmai), saw funky HK lifestyle store Goods of Desire (G.O.D) move in in July. Chan Iz-Lynn, Vice President of Far East Retail Consultancy which brought them in, describes the location along the river, with its “history as ethnic melting pot that is both tradition and innovation, as “the perfect complement to the brand’s celebration of authentic Asian culture through humor and creativity, all packaged in modern design.” Meanwhile, Ty Tabing is frank about the fact that neighboring Boat Quay has for too long been home to too many seafood operators. “It was a vicious cycle downward for them,” he says, “but that’s begun to change.” Indeed, it’s at the new look Boat Quay (see our hot dining, nightlife and even beauty recommendations at Boat Quay) that you can most readily get a sense of the precinct’s rapidly evolving identity. Gone (mostly) are the touts and the whole ‘bait-and-switch’ routine, in their place are an increasing number of upscale restaurants and other lifestyle offerings—read on for more!

You heard it here first folks: The Singapore River—hottest lifestyle destination in town by 2020.

It's almost Craft Beer Week in Singapore!
Find out where to get craft beer at the Singapore River.

1.) Long Leng/Bae Siang Kung

Rama 4 Rd., Between Chula Soi 7 and 9, across from Sapanlueng Church, Bangkok, 02-611-6338. Open daily 11am-2pm, 5pm-11pm.
This place had been around for 70-80 years under the name of Be Siang Kung, but the second-generation owner has made it catchier, changing it to Long Leng (loud noises). Their fish balls (B3.50) are made with yellowtail fusilier, white fin wolf-herring, and mackerel—all homemade and with no flour added. The result is a fish ball that really tastes of fish with a bouncy texture; and the same goes for their shrimp balls (B3.50). Their fish wontons (B5) are just as exciting, with minced pork thrown in for richness. Fancy something crispy? Try fried swordfish skin (B20), or have it all with their yen ta fo (tofu noodles, B35-40), which is seasoned with ketchup instead of the normal pickled bean curd.

2.) Ros Dee Ded

Rama 4 Rd., Chula Soi 9., Bangkok, 02-611-9826. Open daily 10am-10pm.
After inheriting his father’s business on Rama 4, the son opened another branch at Chula Soi 9. It’s all about the meat here, with options ranging from rice to noodles and hotpot. The rice topped with pork tongue stew (B40) is simply delicious: the pork tongue is well-done and the sauce is delicate. The signature noodles (B40-60) are braised pork and braised beef, sweetened by meat bone soup. The meat is thinly sliced and so perfectly scalded that it practically melts in your mouth. If you want to cook it your own way, then hotpot it is. Get ready for all the premium meat cuts—sirloin, flank, shank, rib eye, chuck, etc. The tip from the owner is to adjust the pot’s temperature by slowly mixing in the soup with the meat in a separate bowl. This way you’ll experience a softer and sweeter meat. Do note that you have to call ahead an hour for the shop to prepare the premium meat.

3.) Kao Ka Moo Lert Ros

Rama 4 Rd., in front of Hong Chai Rice Ltd. Bangkok. Open daily 4pm-midnight.
The menu sounds simple enough—rice topped with stewed pork leg—but we all know how difficult it is to find the perfect kao ka moo. The pork skin is on the fatty side, but that’s why it’s so delicious. The pork is slowly simmered in a brown soy sauce for a sweet, rich taste, and the pickled Chinese cabbage and vinegar make for a perfect balance of sour, sweet, and salty. And if the rice dish (B35-50) isn’t enough, just order an extra plate of it (B70).

4.) Kao-tom-pla Sa-pan-leung

506/2-3, Soi Pranakares, Rama 4 Rd., Bangkok, 084-727-8899. Open daily 5pm-10pm.
Don’t get confused by the big ‘Viroon Ice-cream’ sign in front of the shophouse since there is no hint of ice-cream anywhere nearby. This place is known for its fish boiled rice (B150) that comes with a flavorful sauce on the side. It may seem a little pricey for a bowl of soup, some rice, and some fish, but they make each dish separately, and serve only the freshest fish. No need to worry about scales or bones: just let the fish melt in your mouth—just like eating ice-cream.

5.) Jae Sri

Soi Pra Nakares, Rama 4 Rd., Bangkok, 081-927-7017. Open daily 6pm-10pm.
Jae Sri has been in the business for 30 years, and her secret, she says, is using only the top part of the water mimosa, making her Yum Pak-Krachade (B80, B100) the talk of the town. Apart from her renowned dish, we also recommend the boiled cockles (B100, B150). As for her marketing strategy, you can even find her on Facebook!

6.) Sangkaya Bread by Chai

506/1, Soi Pranakares, Rama 4 Rd., Bangkok, 089-893-5393. Open daily 6pm-midnight.
Warm bread with sangkaya and a hot glass of milk is about as close to a grandmother’s hug as food gets. And that’s exactly who Chai got his recipe from, serving his grandmother’s not-too-sweet, yet very fragrant, sangkaya (B30). And if his specialty doesn’t warm you up, his genuine smile will.

7.) Seng Sim Ee

Rama 4 Rd., Soi Pra Nakares. Bangkok. Open daily 4pm-midnight.
What better way to end your day than seng sim ee (hot and cold Chinese dessert)? It’s sweet but healthy so don’t hesitate to have it at night. A must is ginger syrup served with grains (B35-40) gingko seed and lotus roots. If these sound too organic, try the bean curd, rice flour balls, and glass noodles. 

1. Club Street Social

An unofficial hangout for F&B industry players including off-duty chefs, restaurant managers and bartenders, the area's latest hotspot offers a laidback alternative to the other watering holes on the main Club Street stretch. Tuck into Italian sandwiches like panini, tramezzini and crostini (from $9), while sipping on unique cocktails like Number 4 ($20), with rye whiskey and Vegemite.

Club Street Social | best bars and restaurants on Club Street

2. Luke's Oyster Bar Chophouse

Care of Travis Masiero is this chic brasserie that's classy (think crisp white linens and vest-wearing servers) yet relaxed. Comforting American classics such as New England-style clam chowder ($17) and pork chops with house-made apple jam ($60) pairs well with attentive and well-trained service; a real winner in our book.

3. Senso Ristorante & Bar

A true blue Club Street institution that's been around since 2000, this charming Italian stalwart occupies five adjacent shophouses (gorgeous courtyard, too). Not only do they offer good lunch sets, their Sunday brunch is also worth a visit.

Senso Italian restaurant | best bars and restaurants on Club Street

4. Platters Bistro and Wine Bar

Sample a constantly changing selection of mostly European wines and a menu of sharing platters (hence the name), including cheese and charcuterie (from $18) and duck confit for two ($28) at this barely three-month-old joint. The kitchen also invites a new guest chef to create specials every three months. Till the end of June 2012, it's local boy Jimmy Chok.

5. Bartini 

Cocktail bars are everywhere these days, but two things make the cocktails at Bartini different—they're made with premium and uncommon spirits (like Wyborowa's flavored vodkas and Diplomatico rum from Venezuela) and they all have an element of fun to them. Highlights here include signature creations like the Pornstar Martini ($22), a mix of vodka, raspberry liquer and passion fruit served with a shot of Champagne.

Cocktail bar Bartini | best bars and restaurants on Club Street

more places to go in Club Street

6. 83

From the folks behind L'Entrecote and Sabio Tapas Bar & Restaurant on Duxton Hill comes this bar-restaurant that's a mishmash of urban street art, art deco, Georgian, Victorian and modern furnishings—a great backdrop to enjoy Swiss beers, an extensive cocktail list and bubbly like Delamotte ($15/glass, $74/bottle). For bites, French-inspired fare such as drunken snail croquettes ($15) and penne served with duck leg confit ($24) should do the trick.

83 Club Street bar | best bars and restaurants on Club Street

7. Fry Bistro

A rooftop bar/bistro offering from FLY Entertainment CEO Irene Ang serving up beer-friendly bites such as Aunty Ang's wings with belachan chili ($14) and deep fried whitebait with paprika ($14), as well as easy-drinking brews like Foster's ($14) and Crown Lager ($14). Ang also runs HQ Karaoke & Bar just across the road, where you can sing your heart out while getting liquored up on mojitos (from $16) and apple shooters ($13 for a pair).

Fry Bistro's chicken wings | best bars and restaurants on Club Street

8. KKI

With jus a few tables, the space is tiny, but that's part of the appeal. The main draws here are the lovingly handmade cakes such as the Antoinette ($8) and Little Red Riding Hood ($8.50), dark chocolate mousse with a tart raspberry center. KKI shares the space with Little Drom Store, a retro retail shop.

9. Mamounia Restaurant & Lounge 

You might know this venue better as the five-storey Screening Room, with Mamounia Restaurant located on the ground floor while Mamounia Lounge has taken over the basement where Malt Vault now renamed as B28 (see below) used to be. After a makeover and concept change late last year, expect cuisines from places like Morocco, Turkey and Iran, and a menu built for sharing. There's also La Terraza Rooftop Bar if you're looking for a good alfresco booze spot.

10. B28

Formerly known as Malt Vault, B28 has relocated from one basement to another nearby at boutique hotel The Club. The swanky spot's still got a mean range of whiskies, regular jazz performances, an awesome lead bartender in the form of Aubrey Sim (check out our piece on notable female F&B folk) and $15 cocktail hour from 6-9pm on Mondays to Fridays.

Whisky bar B28 | best bars and restaurants on Club Street

more places to go in Club Street

Two years ago, it was best known for its girly bars. A year ago, for its new foodie arrivals. Now, Duxton Hill has come into its own with an eclectic mix not just of restaurants, but bars, bookstores, art spaces and retail outlets.

*NEW* 1. Le Petit Cancale
The focus here is firmly on crustaceans and bivalves. Try their signature Le Petit Cancale ($90), a platter of freshly shucked Fine de Claire n° 3 and Normandes n° 4 molluscs from Cancale, Brittany crab, clams, whelks, winkles, langoustines and shrimp, or spring for the even more epic Le Grand Cancale ($195). 

2. Latteria Mozzarella Bar
Don’t miss fresh cheeses such as stracciatella sprinkled with bottarga ($20) and nodini with proscuitto ($22) at this mozzarella bar owned by the il Lido group. Mains like melt-of-the-bone lamb shanks ($35) round out the menu.

3. Wok & Barrel
Chef-owner Shen Tan’s modern Singaporean eatery offers nasi lemak sets (from $7.90) and specialties like beef rendang pizza ($13.90).

4. Buyan Russian Haute Cuisine & Caviar Bar
Throw back a selection of over 50 vodkas (from $13/shot) at their downstairs bar. They go great with bites like khachapuri ($10), Georgian goat cheese flatbread.

5. Praelum Wine Bistro
This modest space serves a rotating variety of wines—dispensed by two Enomatic machines—in three different sizes: 25ml, 75ml or 150ml. On tap are choices like the house red, a 2008 Château La Croix Figeac (from $2.50/25ml).

6. Flor Pâtisserie
Stop at this Japanese bakery/café for maple, blueberry and caramel cheese tarts ($3.20), as well as the yummy chestnut marron pie ($4.20).

7. Broadway Cafe
Chow down on wedges and onion rings (both $6.90) while enjoying a private movie screening (they have a large projection screen and have themed movie nights every so often) at this homely spot.

8. Littered with Books
This book store repositions its furniture weekly, so customers get a fresh browsing experience each time. Pick a corner—our favorite nook is among the travel and food tomes upstairs—and read away the afternoon.

9. Greens on Screens
This café-bar-indoor golfing center features a simulator with advanced technology and interactive graphics. It’s currently closed for renovation but is set to reopen in late June.

10. The Pigeonhole
Pick up preloved books (from $3) at this indie alcove. The multifaceted establishment also serves Highlander coffee (from $3.50), displays local art and hosts budding music acts.

11. La Maison Fatien
Dishing out traditional fare is this atmospheric brasserie decorated with French paraphernalia. Dig into pan-seared foie gras with caramelized apple-raisin glaze ($18) and duck confit ($28). Served alongside are vinos from their famed namesake winery Maison Fatien (from $80/bottle).

12. En Motion Dance School
Specializing in Latin dance lessons—think salsa, tango and bachata—this studio is a haven for happy-footed couples. Trial classes go for $10. On Tuesdays and Saturdays, the house also hosts hot and heavy social dance parties called Latin Nitez ($3-5).

13. Richard Koh Fine Art
Focused on contemporary Southeast Asian art, this gallery is currently displaying work by Filipino abstract artist Jay Ticar (from $8,000). They also represent local art collective Vertical Submarine (from $1,200) and art installation specialist Yeo Chee Kiong.

14. AV Galleria
At this audio visual equipment store, pick up high-end pieces such as Audio-Technica headsets (from $38) and iPod docks by brands such as a JBL and Harman Kardon (from $100). For a more immersive experience, they’ll even build you a custom home theater system (from $3,000).

The character of Kampong Glam may be about to change dramatically. A movement to gauge public support to ban alcohol consumption in one of the city’s most popular after-hours areas is fast gaining momentum, spearheaded by Dr. Ameen Talib, owner of Cafe Le Caire on Arab Street, who is petitioning for an alcohol-free zone situated along the neighborhood’s core area (see map below), which encompasses the peripheries of Haji Lane, North Bridge Road, Kandahar Street, Sultan Gate, Aliwal Street and Beach Road. Bali Lane, which currently houses bars and drinking joints like Twine, Blu Jaz and One for the Road, is currently not affected.

Talib is proposing a blanket ban on restaurants and convenience stores such as 7-Eleven selling alcohol. Along with certain stakeholders around the area (namely alcohol-free cafes and restaurants like Altazzag Egyptian Restaurant), Talib has been heavily petitioning to “maintain the core and heritage” of Kampong Glam by positioning it as an “alternative nightlife hub which is family-friendly, offers good clean, fun, and free of alcohol.” Others though are, unsurprisingly, not happy with the proposal. Yet the area’s history makes it a particularly thorny issue.

The Heritage Divide

The Arab Quarter was home to the city’s Malay aristocracy in 1819, before British settlement in 1822 afforded the area to different ethnic groups like the Chinese, Arabs and Europeans. Today, it remains a stronghold among the Malay-Muslim community. It is home to the Istana and the Malay Heritage Centre along Kandahar Street, numerous Malay-Muslim eating establishments around Arab Street, Bussorah Street, Aliwal Street, Kandahar Street and North Bridge Road, and The Sultan Mosque, a place of worship among the community, is located at the heart of Bussorah Street—and therein lies Talib’s point of contention. Convenience store 7-Eleven located on Bussorah Street sells alcohol, and Turkish Restaurant Istanbul Grill’s & Cafe serves beer to its diners in an alfresco space, diagonally across from the mosque.

“Over the last two years, the neighborhood’s character has declined,” says Talib. “People are seen carrying beer bottles right in front of the mosque and around the area and this is disrespectful and an eyesore. The area was where the Malay, Muslim and Indian community used to assemble. If no one says or does anything now, the situation will get out of hand.”

A Question of Lifestyle

Like Chinatown and Little India, Kampong Glam has been identified by the Urban Redevelopment Authority (URA) as a conservation area—in 2006 rent-control was lifted for the old shop houses and the units were later refurbished and sold in an open market to private bidders. The area was soon awash with cafés, restaurants, fashion boutiques and a myriad of lifestyle retailers—it morphed from a relatively quiet and relaxed neighborhood specializing in shisha and Middle-Eastern and Malay food, to one of the city’s hippest lifestyle quarters (Download our Arab Street guide to find out more).

But unlike Chinatown or Little India, Kampong Glam’s redevelopment and repositioning is a little trickier because of its history and traditions—alcohol consumption is prohibited among the Muslim community. The URA has therefore been careful with their conservation plan here, putting in place “policies to guide the allowable uses to encourage traditional and activity-generating trades in the area,” says a spokesperson. “For example, incompatible trades such as new bars, pubs, nightclubs and health centers are not allowed in the core and exclusion areas in Kampong Glam.”

Businesses can nevertheless work around this policy and can serve alcohol if they register their businesses not under bars or clubs, but instead under cafes and restaurants, and apply for a separate liquor license through the Singapore Police Force. And, of course, most restaurants want to serve alcohol to boost business.

Ethan Leong, who runs a cocktail bar located on the third story of café cum fashion boutique Maison Ikkoku at Kandahar Street, which opened four months ago, says that serving alcohol is just part of an investment and lifestyle decision. “We are here to promote cocktail-drinking as a lifestyle and not consuming alcohol per se,” he says. “For example, we don’t even have signage outside that says we serve alcohol. It’s about respecting the neighborhood and not abusing our trade so that all businesses here can still pull in individual visitors and chart their own paths. We definitely do not encourage consumption of drinks outside our premises.”

The situation along Bali Lane is a little more dicey, however. Dr. Ameen Talib’s current proposal to ban all alcohol consumption outdoors might put businesses like Pedra Negra—which relies heavily on alcohol sales at its outdoor space—out of business.

“Our regulars comprise mostly expatriates who make up about 70 percent of our customers who expect to drink when they’re here,” says owner Aileen Tan. “It’s definitely a different experience to be able to eat and drink under the stars. Before I came into the scene in 2006 with Blu Jaz, the crowd here comprised mostly youngsters who smoke shisha. It has since become more sophisticated. After all, the area should be considered as a collective, how businesses should benefit from one another with different crowds moving from one joint to another.”

A Win-Win Situation?

Jean Francois Nordin, who runs the halal French bistro Le Bistro Parisien, and who does not serve alcohol at his venue, says that the stakeholders of Kampong Glam must work together to maintain the neighborhood’s esprit des corps to resolve the matter. “Because of my own principle and beliefs, I choose not to serve or sell alcohol. It’s a personal choice, but I cannot impose on my personal beliefs on others,” he says. “The city has evolved to be very cosmopolitan and we have to respect that.”

Another unnamed stakeholder agrees that the various tenants at Kampong Glam must come together to resolve the matter collectively. “We are a multi-racial, multi-religious society,” he says. “We cannot create boundaries and polarize anyone in the area.”

Members of the Kampong Glam Association, comprising stakeholders in the area, including Talib, Tan and Nordin, met last week to discuss Talib’s personal crusade internally, although they have yet to resolve the matter and Talib is going ahead with his petition. “Every stakeholder should have an inclusive voice in this matter and if we push the issue further, there will be no end,” says Tan.

Talib maintains that the push for an alcohol-free zone is similar to that in cities like London and Sydney and the move will at least keep the number of alcohol venues in check. “I do not want this to blow out of proportion, but it will be sad if the area is known as a drinking neighborhood similar to Clarke Quay or Boat Quay,” he says.

A check with a legal source attests that, from a property zoning perspective, the move to ban alcohol consumption cannot be enforced without proper guidelines from the URA, which, according to its spokesperson, is still “reviewing the matter with the Singapore Police Force and other agencies. However, “the police can impose terms and conditions for the operation of the alcohol license, which would mean theoretically that consumption can be restricted to indoors and with restricted hours if the police are convinced that it is in the public interest to do so,” says our legal source (who asked to remain anonymous). The public seem similarly polarized by the current bid to keep the area alcohol free. Singer Marina Xavier, who visits the area frequently, says a blanket rule will create “animosity among the residents. It’s the current free-spirited vibe and general camaraderie that’s so enjoyable.”

A blanket outdoor alcohol ban does seem like a rather drastic step. Could a possible solution be to limit (and enforce) the ban within the immediate perimeters of the Sultan Mosque along Arab Street and Bussorah Street which just help yet curb alcohol consumption within Kampong Glam’s sacred grounds? The debate is sure to continue. In the meantime, send your views to feedback@asia-city.com.sg.

After a full day of shopping in mammoth shopping mall VivoCity, restaurants outside the behemoth may be called for.

More Vivocity restaurants

The Orange Lantern Vietnamese Cuisine

HarbourFront Centre
VivoCity > restaurant: 4 mins walk

The Orange Lantern legacy seems to be going strong. Replete with orange lanterns, bright-hued Vietnamese paintings and orange walls, there are value-for-money set meals here and yummy signatures like the special beef noodle soup and rice paper roll with chicken at this Vietnamese restaurant. Unpretentious chow at its best.

The Orange Lantern is a 4-minute walk from VivoCity

Empress Jade

The Jewel Box
VivoCity > restaurant: Cable car

Empress Jade is one of the restaurants in Singapore that does old school Chinese food with modern class. Perched right atop The Jewel Box, this restaurant’s full-glass enclosure offers a dazzling vista, and the menu, which is inspired by traditional Singapore Chinese cuisine, features timeless, delicious dishes such as soy smoked fish; fried king prawns “har lok;” and the pork liver with spring onions and ginger in claypot.

Empress Jade is a cable car ride away from VivoCity

Chinois by Susur Lee

Resorts World Sentosa
VivoCity > restaurant: Monorail, 1 stop

Situated in Resorts World Sentosa, this is famed celebrity chef Susur Lee’s fusion (contemporary Chinese with a western twist) restaurant. This menu is an impressive selection of Chinese staples and local favorites (they even have chili crab here). Dishes to try include the crispy Peking duck skin with five-spiced foie gras and shredded duck, and steamed eggplant roulade, sprinkled with bonito flakes and flash-fried mei chai (preserved vegetables).

Chinois by Susur Lee is 1 stop from Vivocity by monorail

Baits

The Forum, Resorts World Sentosa
VivoCity > restaurant: Monorail, 1 stop

Baits is one of the many great restaurants at Resorts World Sentosa. The large space and high ceilings were built for dining in large groups. A stunning dish that you simply must order is assam style fish cooked in a mouthwatering assam (tamarind) gravy with eggplant, pineapple, ladies fingers and tomatoes. The zesty chili crab and BBQ stingray are also good bets.

Baits is 1 stop from VivoCity by monorail

More Vivocity restaurants

Privé

Marina at Keppel Bay
VivoCity > restaurant: Taxi, 5 mins

This port of call has a nice ambiance and is one of the best restaurants in Singapore for power breakfasts by the marina. Never mind its rather inaccessible location, as it's a short taxi ride away from VivoCity.

Takumi Restaurant

Marina at Keppel Bay
VivoCity > restaurant: Taxi, 5 mins

Already a success in Tokyo, this robatayaki and teppanyaki restaurant is filling up tables every night. Here’s why—the food is amazing, the service is fantastic (then again, this is the Japanese we’re talking about), and the harborfront view is serenely beautiful. The à la carte menu is extensive and one of its star dishes is the sizzling rock shabu shabu, although you’d be hard pressed to find something on the menu that isn’t good. If you really want to be blown away, call ahead and have executive chef Nishi prepare a 12-course kaiseki menu for you. Trust us, you’ll be impressed.

Takumi Restaurant is a 5-minute taxi ride from VivoCity

Osia

Crockfords Tower (FestiveWalk)
VivoCity > restaurant: Monorail, 1 stop

Australian celebrity chef Scott Webster has designed an innovative menu inspired by fresh Australian produce that combines Asian influences and western culinary techniques with flair. Signature items to bet on are the espuma of papaya “Iced Brick,” polenta-crusted foie gras, duo of Tasmanian milk-fed lamb and Valrhona hot chocolate soup.

Osia is 1 stop by monorail from VivoCity

L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon

Resorts World Sentosa
VivoCity > restaurant: Taxi, 5 mins

The more “casual” of Michelin star-studded Joël Robuchon’s two Singapore restaurants, L’Atelier has the same distinctive red and black décor as the others around the world, as well as the same elaborate gastronomic creations and sky-high prices.

L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon is a 5-minute taxi ride from VivoCity

Anar

Resorts World Sentosa
VivoCity > restaurant: Monorail, 1 stop

The newest and only Middle Eastern restaurant at Resorts World Sentosa, Anar is all very full on. Expect elaborate Persian decor and traditional Arabic and Persian food.

Anar is 1 stop away from VivoCity by monorail

Peony-Jade Restaurant

The Keppel Club
VivoCity > restaurant: Taxi, 7 mins

We love authentic Chinese cuisine, and Peony-Jade passes the test. The menu is extensive, and highlights include the Szechuan camphor wood smoked duck with fragrant tea leaves; Peony-Jade Szechuan hot and sour soup; and deep-fried cod with oat cereal.

PeraMakan

Keppel Club
VivoCity > restaurant: Taxi, 7 mins

PeraMakan is a pleasant Peranakan restaurant that actually lives up to its namesake by imbuing it with nostalgic elements, while adding modern touches to keep with the times.

More Vivocity restaurants

Pre-Party

You need build up some pre-club energy, but don’t want to get your hair all smokey at those tam sang stalls that are everywhere on Thong Lor. Consider Niyom Pochana (125 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-3911517. Open daily 4pm-12am) for a wide variety of standards, even if they aren’t always that cheap. Get the real-deal poo pad pong kari (yellow crab curry, count B1,000 for a big crab) or the tom yam kung mae nam (tom yam with river prawns, B600). Less pricey but equally delicious is their moo satay (B80 for small). The place is situated in an old shophouse and is perpetually packed with local families, so do come early. Further up is the Vietnamese Nam Nueng (400 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-714-9575. Open daily 8am-10pm). Try their recommended dishes like the guay jub yuan (Vietnamese noodles, B60) and gung pun aoi (sugar cane wrapped with minced prawns, B100 for small).

post-Party

So you’re done partying, you’re all out of cash and you need a late-night eat. Paikiew (081-826-9352. Open daily 12pm-5pm, 6pm-midnight) is located in front of Family Mart, Thonglor Soi 17, and attracts lots of people like you, so you can sometimes have a long wait. But it’s worth it for their tangy roasted duck which comes in a bamee ped (noodle soup with slices of duck, B40). Or, if it’s really late, you can go to the famed 55 Pochana at the beginning of Soi Thong Lor (1087-1093 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-391-2021. Open daily 5pm-3am). The must-orders are the or-suan (oyster omelette, B150) or dok kajon pad kai (stir-fried flowers with egg, B80). Be warned, though, the service can sometimes be a little gruff. But if you’re drunk and hungry, you won’t care. Just a few steps away is the hidden treasure Khao Tom Prung (1083 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-391-8433. Open Tue-Sun 4.30pm-10.30pm), with its diversity of toppings. A quality khao tom pla (rice soup with fish) dish is only B80. It’s fresh and tastes homemade. If you’re a real fish fan, there are also fish eggs and fresh fish maw, but for those, you have to show up before 7:30pm or call ahead to reserve.

Old Classics

It’s so hot and trendy, it’s hard to remember that Thong Lor has its army of classic cateries that folks flock to from all parts of the city. Our favorite among them is Hoy Tod Chao Lay (25 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 085-128-3996. Open daily 9am-9pm). They do hoy tod (crispy oyster omelet, B60), or-suan (B100), and pad Thai (B80) and are very generous with portions. Further up, on the same side, is the legendary Mandarin (729/1 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-391-4062. Open daily 9.30am-6pm). A dish of khao naa ped or bamee ped costs you only B55, and the crispy skin on the roast duck is pretty delectable, but weekends do get crazy. And who can not love Khao Mun Kai Boon Tong Kiat (440/5 in front of Thonglor Soi 16, 02-390-2508. Open daily 10am-10pm). Their khao mun kai (B65) comes with lovely, fatty rice and strong sauces. Finally, for dessert, there’s Maewaree (1 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-392-4304. Open 24/7, khao niew only available 5am-11pm), whose vast mango displays take up half the sidewalk and where you can order khao niew moon (sticky rice with coconut milk) with chunks of sweet mango for B90. (Sometimes they do sneak in the seed, though.)

Those in the know have always loved Tiong Bahru for its white-washed art deco architecture and some of the best local food around. Yet over the past year, so many funky cafés and stores have opened their doors that it now vies with Duxton Hill and the Arab Quarter for the title of Singapore’s trendiest neighborhood. Here’s 13 good reasons to spend your weekend there.

1. Open Door Policy

A newbie from chef-owner Ryan Clift of the Tippling Club, partnering with Spa Esprit and Harry Grover of 40 Hands, this casual bistro is already drawing the crowds.

2. Books Actually

Embrace your inner bookworm at this delightful indie store. They stock the widest collection of Singapore literary publications including some out-of-print titles. And they host the fortnightly Babette’s Feast literary get-together.

3. Strangelets

Having moved from Amoy Street, Strangelets is still one of the best spots in town for cool lamps, accessories, bags, notebooks and other unusual objets d’art.

4. Bhutan Shop

Dedicated to all things Bhutan, this space carries a small selection of contemporary works by Bhutanese artists (with 20 percent of sales donated to transport children books to Bhutan’s rural schools), organic teas, handmade bags and other lifestyle products. They also organize specially curated tours of the country.

5. 40 Hands

Unbeatable coffee and a convivial vibe (they’re packed every weekend) continue to make this year-old joint the place to see and be seen in.

6. Nana & Bird

What started out as a pop-up concept store is now a staple among trendy young things. Highlights here include accessories by local brand By Invite Only and ready to wear by emerging Guangzhou label aijek. It only opens on weekends, 11am-7pm.

7. White Canvas

Setting the tone here since 2009, this truly indie gallery is a friendly and welcoming space showcasing emerging local and regional artists. Currently on show through November are the watercolor works of Ong Kim Seng.

8. Thrive

Not just a regular fitness center, newbie Thrive specializes in workouts that focus on natural human movement patterns, with personal trainers watching over your every move (in a good way). Rates start at $96 for an introductory session.

9. Flea & Trees

Opened just last month, this is a treasure trove of eclectic vintage furniture, clothes, accessories, books, ceramics, homeware and magazines, mostly one-of-a-kind, founded by designer Terence Yeung and his wife Bella Koh.

10. Nostalgia Hotel

Quaint and charming (even if the rooms are incredibly small), we often come here to watch football at the alfresco bar Potion out front. You should, too.

11. The Orange Thimble

A great place for brunch or an espresso. Highlights include its Breakfast Burger and the BBC (bacon, brie and cranberry), with artworks adorning its wall and a nice open space out back.

12. Drips

This old-school-styled café and bakery is one of the newer additions here, dedicated to whipping up sweet and savory treats as well as coffee standards.

13. Foodie Market Place

A great alternative to Cold Storage, with friendlier service to boot. Cheese, ice cream, yogurt and coffee grounds are well-stocked at this new spot—great if you’re passing through on your way home.

Index

Dining Retail Art Hotel Fitness

Tai Panich

9 Paholyothin 7, Ari Soi 1, 084-753-6162, Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm
After turning left at Phahonyothin Soi 7 (aka Ari), Tai Panich is a few shops into Ari Soi 1. One look at all the packed tables and all the pictures the owner has taken with celeb shows like Na-Nake and it’s obvious that the popular choice here is kao moo dang moo krob [red pork and crispy pork with rice] served with hot gourd soup (B40). The moo daeng is above average, but we especially love the crispy moo krob which has been fried to perfection. Other popular dishes are the yentafo and steamed chicken noodles (B40 each). The soup of the yentafo is a bit too sweet (we know some people love that) but the fish balls are very fresh and show little hint of being over-adulterated with flour.

Guay Tiew Ped Ari

2/2 Ari Soi 1, 085-338-6177. Open daily 10am-3pm
Offering only guay tiew ped (duck noodles), the shop looks like it’s been there forever and looks charmingly old. A bowl costs only B30 (B40 for takeaway) which is cheaper than other shops in the neighborhood. The soup tastes just right, not too salty, while the duck has been well steamed without making it too chewy. Be warned that unknown duck insides are also included and there’s only a tiny amount of veggies to be seen. A plate of duck costs B80 if you’d like to have it with rice.

Maliwan Kanom Thai

Beginning of Ari Soi 1, opposite Bodily Wax salon. Open daily 7am-3pm
For over 30 years, Maliwan Kanom Thai has been making fresh Thai desserts, running out by the end of lunchtime every day. They don’t accept phone orders so you better show up early and prepare for a short wait. The kow niew dum krati (black sticky rice with coconut milk, B15) is heavenly yummy, though the best sellers here are the kanom chan (layered rice flour and coconut milk snack, B15) which come in three colors: purple, brown and green. A box of look choob (bean paste filled miniatures) costs a bit more (B60) but the taste and the blend is just first-rate, without being too sweet.

Som Tam Loong Yom

End of connecting sois between Ari Soi 1 and 2, 087-685-2213. Open Mon-Sat 11am-9pm
One of the legendary somtam places in Ari, Som Tum Loong Yom is not only popular among the office workers around the area, but plenty of expats come in for an Isaan lunch feast as well. The B30 somtam pu plara and somtam Korat taste authentic, and their huge bowl of tasty tom saeb (Thai spicy soup with pork ribs and mushroom) is a mere B50. What can’t be missed here is the B60 scrumptious grilled beef, served with the spicy jim jaew sauce.

Roti Kow Wang

Ari Soi 1, 087-123-4194.
If you stroll along Ari Soi 1, you’ll come across this small cart selling roti. Choose between a B15 ordinary roti or B25 for one with extra egg or banana, and B30 for a mataba. The original thick and soft roti is nice but the extra crispy one is super. The owner makes the crust extra crispy and not overly-done, which tastes perfectly well with the sweetened milk and lots of sugar on top.

1.) Kanom Bung Yuwan

Everybody’s lining up to get a bite of this classic Thai sweet (B20 for 9) at a spot called Kanom Bueng Ma Joi, located just outside of the hospital. They also sell kanom pung yuwan sai kai, a delicious Thai-style crepe with bean sprouts and colorful flakes of coconut called kanom foi thong.

2.) Hoi Tod

This stand right on the corner of St. Louis Soi 1 fries up a mean oyster omelet, with flour and string beans (B30). They say that their best seller is their basic pad Thai (B30) and that they can cook it fast, a key point to consider when you’re picking it up after work. Open 3pm-9pm

3.) Somtam

Every variation on everyone’s favorite dish can be found within a 20-foot walk from the corner of St. Louis Soi 1. From 6:30am-6pm, these two sisters pound up somtam Thai (B30), somtam khai kem (B35), and somtam Lao (B25), among other delights. When you order, they’ll urge you to get a piece of grilled chicken (B20) and Isaan-style mushroom soup (B30) to go with the spicy salad—and you really should.

4.) Meat Skewers

Walk down a little further, and just outside of the St. Louis Hospital gates is a guy that grills just about every type of street meat you can shake a stick at: naem (sour sausage), chicken, saigrok (sausage), pork and beef are all B10 a stick and ready to grab and go.

5.) Yam Pladuk Foo

Across the streets from the gates St. Louis University gates is a little restaurant that offers a roof over your head while they serve their specialty yam pladuk foo (sweet and sour mango and catfish salad, B50). The crunchy fish, dipped in a sweet sauce to balance out the saltiness goes well with a dish of moo yang (B40).

6.) Taap Saep

Deeper into the soi, is a quaint restaurant with a white roof. Inside, they serve a couple of great Isaan meat salads. Their taap saep (spicy Isaan-style pork, B45) has just the right balance between spiciness and sourness—and you can ask them to make it to your taste. Also worth trying is their tom saep kadook gaew, a spicy soup dish that goes well with their pork salad (B40).

7.) Kai Yeo Mah Kra Pao Gop

On the next soi, St. Louis soi 2, you’ll find an outdoor cafeteria-like area. Make sure you head to Lom Poh, a restaurant in the very back corner. Their spicy stir-fry with basil and hundred-year eggs is firm favorite (B45). The eggs are cooked in batter with lime leaves, leaving you stuffed and satisfied.

Essentials

Getting There. Just get off at BTS Surasak and take exit 3.
When to Go. The soi is at its busiest from 8-11am and 5-8pm.