A joint project by British celeb chef Jason Atherton and famed local hotelier Loh Lik Peng, this casual eatery serves up a selection of simple, if sometimes underwhelming, bites like shaved asparagus, beet and radish salad ($18) as well as grilled bone marrow with London gentleman’s relish ($19). They’ve also just launched a weekend Punch Brunch menu (Saturday-Sunday 11am-4pm).
Right next to Atherton’s casual Western spot is this password-only bar. You can get the secret phrase off their Facebook page or from the eager servers at the restaurant. Armed with it, you’ll be able to enter through a mirrored door to find serious drinks care of Canadian bartender Stefan Ravalli who’s done his time at Pollen Street Social. Tiki fans will dig Piscotheque ($21), with passion fruit, pineapple, mint leaves and BarSol Pisco. The sake-spiked Moshi Moshi Umeboshi ($21) is a nice refreshing drink, too.
Charming Parisian bistro decor, an impressive wine list, and French classics like escargots ($24) rich with butter and garlic as well as Burgundy-style beef simmered in red wine ($37) make a meal here a special treat.
The food here is inspired by the cuisine of Reine Sammut, a one-Michelin-starred chef who helms destination restaurant La Fenière in the hills of Luberon. Expect rustic dishes like rabbit and foie gras terrine with fig chutney and mache salad ($28).
This themed restaurant is a throwback to the ‘80s and ‘90s eras with old-school stools, a memorabilia collection, vintage illustrations by British designer Fran Holden and even working Pacman and Galaga arcade game machines. The grub is decidedly retro as well with British dishes such as corned beef ($12) and steak Diane with chips ($29). If you’re feeling thirsty, there are revamped classic tipples named after movies from the era like the Ferris Bueller ($18), a mixture of five kinds of rum, a dash of absinthe, tropical juices and a maraschino cherry.
By the same folks behind the Retrospective comes this ramen bar and izakaya inspired by a fictional manga character—a prostitute named Mariko—by renowned Japanese illustrator Yoshihiro Tatsumi. Order up classics such as wagyu tonkotsu ramen ($25) and yakitori like chicken heart with salt ($12) and wash it down with a range of warm and cold sakes (from $12/glass, $66/bottle) or Japanese whisky including Nikka Black ($12/glass, $$170/bottle).
Headed by owner-mixologist Joel Fraser, who’s an alum of both award-winning Melbourne bar Der Raum and Tippling Club, this sleek space serves around 20 cocktail concoctions such as Walking Dead ($24), a riff on the Zombie made with spices and a secret blend of 13 different rums and garnished with a candy eyeball. Nibbles like the charcuterie tartine ($18) with pastrami, chorizo and saucisson round out the offerings.
Jason Atherton’s other Chinatown eating establishment, shoebox-sized tapas joint Esquina needs no introduction (and takes no reservations). This corner-spot spills out onto the street and serves up a host of Spanish small plates like beetroot salad with honeycomb burrata ($18) and roast lamb rump with black olive polenta ($27). They’ve also recently introduced a three-course set lunch for $39.
Put away your preconceptions about “fusion” food, for Bistro Soori is a delight. Here you’ll find east meets west dishes like slow roasted pork belly and yuzu gastrique ($18) and karaage prawns with kaffir lime and Russian dressing ($17).
After a trip to Japan (to train and search for inspiration), cult favorite chef Nicolas Joanny is back at his new digs. At lunch, he offers a three- ($42) and five-course sets ($68), and at dinner, a six-course tasting menu ($98), which changes every two weeks. Head here for a convivial atmosphere and expertly crafted seasonal French fare.
More restaurants from the Keong Saik Road and Jiak Chuan Street area:
Oriole Coffee Roasters
Featuring a dedicated roasting facility, a research laboratory for experimenting with new beans and new methods, and a training lab, the place also offers a boutique café on-site. Coffees start at $4.
Restaurant Ember
Even after a decade, it still gets really busy here, especially during lunchtime, thanks to their affordable set lunches ($42 for three courses). Dinners are calmer affairs, and we highly recommend chef and owner Sebastian Ng’s homemade crispy tofu with delish foie gras-mirin sauce ($17).
Tong Ah Coffeeshop
36 Keong Saik Rd., 6223-5083.
This historic kopitiam with a distinctive red and white facade is still a great standby for thin crispy char grilled kaya toast ($1.20) and kopi-o ($1).
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Brussels Sprouts - Belgian Beer & Mussels
Emmanuel Stroobant Group’s third restaurant overlooks the scenic marina, making it the perfect spot to savor its famous mussels, signature seafood dishes and its extensive list of Belgian beers. Mains by Chef de Cuisine Michael di Placido,such as the braised lamb shank and grilled pork belly, are sure to be popular with meat lovers.
Sports fans are in for a treat at this bistro-bar, which serves pub grub and beverages such as beers, liquors, wines and crafted cocktails, together with the latest sports matches and events on television.
New in the local restaurant scene, this intimate 40-seat Japanese establishment imports most of its offerings from Japan, including the freshest ingredients, rare sakes and artisanal tableware. Its signature charcoal-grilled Kuroge Wagyu beef, kaiseki, sashimi as well as snow crab options are not to be missed.
Be sure to stop by this casual diner to try its Portuguese-style flat roasted chicken and grilled chicken burgers, which come basted in special legendary sauces such as the Grillado signature sauce, mustard-mayo or garlic ranch. Fresh yogurt with fruit or muesli and jalapeno poppers are must-tries as well.
Carnivores, this halal sandwich bar’s for you. Simply pick the meat of your choice and have it served Mediterranean style in freshly baked bread. Those craving for something exotic should tuck into its signature Doner Kebabs—a winning combination of premium meat, spices imported from Germany, and Turkish pita bread.
Simple and unpretentious, this popular all-day dining café serves locally-roasted coffee and fuss-free breakfast options in a chic, laid-back space.
This sophisticated restaurant-bar with an art studio in its premises offers contemporary fusion cusine, a dining-in-a-cup concept and high tea, complemented with alcoholic teas, dietary cocktails, wine and beer—perfect for a weekend bevvy or unwinding after work.
Those with a sweet tooth should drop in at Italian gelateria-bar Note di Sicilia, which makes its traditional low fat gelato with fresh milk from Italy, and sorbetto from seasonal fruits and Italian spring water. Delicious cocktails and frozen shooters are also available on the menu for a post-work tipple (or two).
From the folks behind Cuba Libre and Nueva Cuba comes this joint—its name means ‘heaven’ in Latin—that features a charming, rustic-chic vibe and a Latin American menu and drinks.
The well-loved European bistro at Bukit Timah expands to Sentosa with this second outlet, which delivers the same wholesome fare created by chef-owner Steve Kaye, like the delicious pan fried sea bass and mustang pizza.
Expect only the freshest catches at this gastro-bar, which has seafood flown in the same day. There’s also a fine selection of wines and cocktails to complement your seafood options. Got a great recipe for a particular fish? Have it freshly packed for your own home-cooked meal.
Sabio by the Sea, Tapas & Grill
The sister of Duxton’s busiest Spanish restaurant continues to impress with its striking and fashionable décor, glorious waterfront views, a new menu of grilled fare, traditional tapas and Spanish wines and beers. If you haven’t already, try the jamón ibérico de bellota (black pig ham) and pair it with delicious sangria.
Solepomodoro Trattoria-Pizzeria
Pizzas baked in a custom-built traditional wood-fired oven are the order of the day for this casual upbeat spot, which also has a variety of homemade pastas, ravioli and desserts to tantalize your taste buds. As you’d expect, there’s also an extensive wine list to accompany your meal.
This beauty salon is dedicated to provide excellent customer service with its quality hair, nail and spa sessions, along with reputable beauty products amidst an enjoyable atmosphere. Wedding consultancy services are also available for couples preparing for their big day.
An exquisite gourmet shopping paradise for luxury aficionados, this marketplace carries niche, epicurean brands from around the world to satisfy discerning palates.
If you love Provence’s specialties, this retail store will delight you with its wide selection of olive oils, truffle delicacies, tapenades, artisanal jams, chocolates and excellent wines.
Founder Hiroshi Kato replicates the successful formula of his first gallery at Raffles Hotel in this new art space, which showcases works by renowned and emerging artists from Japan, Europe and other Asian countries.
You’ll find a wide range of fine wines from around the world at this prominent wine distribution chain, whether you’re a casual drinker or a connoisseur. Enjoy special off-the-shelf prices when you pick a label to drink on the spot.
By car
Admission charges into Sentosa vary according to time of entry, but if you’re driving in during lunch (noon-2pm) and dinner (after 5pm) on weekdays, admission is just $2 flat for all passengers. Parking at Quayside Isle from 7am-12:59am is $3.50 per entry.
By public transport
Take the Sentosa Express train from VivoCity to Beach Station Bus Interchange and board the complimentary Sentosa Bus 3 to Sentosa Cove Village. Shuttle buses are available every 30 minutes from 8am to 10:30pm daily. If you’re taking a cab, the same weekday lunch or dinner time admission charges for cars apply.
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Singapore has a lot more in common with the Japanese than you might think. Just ask Alvin Tan, of local art collective PHUNK, who collaborated with legendary artist Keiichi Tanaami in 2010 for the exhibition Eccentric City, who says, “There is a similarity between local and Japanese society in that we both pursue the concept of ‘mukokuseki,’ a ‘no nationality’ framework or view of the modern world. Mukokuseki is a sort of ‘New Internationalism,’ an inclusive philosophy to unite the world on equal terms.”
The latest pop-up concept store Hello, Shibuya Tokyo Fashion and Culture Mix Show with Singapore, which runs through March 10 at Plaza Singapura, is further testament to both countries’ collaborative spirit. Local independent boutiques like Blackmarket and Books Actually are working with Japanese designers to release a series of t-shirts and tote bags at the event. “One of the main aims of the project is to realize the cultural exchange between Singapore and Tokyo,” says a spokesperson for this one-off affair jointly organized by the Ministry of Economy, Trade and Industry, Japan Creative Centre Embassy of Japan and Japan National Tourism Organization. “We wanted to showcase works that are beyond just anime or ‘otaku’-driven, but quality fashion and product designs and art.” Then there’s the Okinawa Fair (happening through March 3) at Isetan Scotts (Basement, Shaw House, 1 Scotts Rd., 6733-1111) where you can grab your hands on premium Japanese liquors and delicacies.
But pop-up stores and Hello Kitty crossovers aren't for everyone so in this round-up of the very best of Japan in Singapore we've cast our net a little wider. Behold, the top Nippon spots for wining, dining, admiring art and even putting your feet up.
Japanese designer labels are highly sought after for their perpetually funky styles—ReiKawakubo’s Comme des Garcons and Issey Miyake both have standalone boutiques at the Hilton Shopping Gallery, while high street giant Uniqlo currently has eight outlets across the city.
This multi-label boutique is where you can find some of the best Japanese labels (from $160) in town, including Jun Takahashi’s Undercover, N. Hoolywood and its latest arrival Eototo, the latter previously unavailable in town. While Undercover and N. Hoolywood draw their influences from rock music and literature, Eototo’s direction is more universal and preppy—stripes and print-blocking designs permeate tees, trousers, sweaters, cardigans and lightweight outerwear—all boasting relaxed, casual silhouettes.
Arguably the best-known Japanese label in the world, the flagship Comme des Garcons boutique is where fashionistas can get their fix on the label’s many lines (from $160), including Shirt and Play collections featuring standout prints with a clever mix of materials, and Homme and Deux lines that are more elaborate and luxe. Fragrance fans can also find selections from Wonderwood, Comme des Garcons White and the special Monocle collaboration, incense.
Hello, Shibuya Tokyo Fashion and Culture Mix Show with Singapore
This pop-up concept store will stock a wide range of ready-to-wear and accessories from more than 15 fashion labels based in Shibuya, including Anrealage, who has also collaborated with local art collective PHUNK to release limited-edition t-shirts and dresses, and other emerging labels like G.V.G.V. and Jun Okamoto. Clothing aside, there will be artworks and collectibles, including a special Nissin Cup Noodles edition designer by Asylum’s Chris Lee (read the full interview) in collaboration with Hello Kitty—a must for both fans of Lee and the world’s most famous feline.
Issey Miyake
Although less showy than Comme des Garcons, Issey Miyake remains one of the most respected fashion labels in the world, especially its longstanding Pleats Please collection which spans bags and womenswear pieces that remain as cutting-edge as when they were released 20 years ago. Elsewhere, men can look forward to the latest Spring/Summer arrivals, which consists mainly of tees, Bermudas, jackets and windbreakers inspired by biking culture.
$160 upwards from #02-09 Hilton Shopping Gallery, 581 Orchard Rd., 6304-1352.
The high street brand ($7.90 upwards) needs almost no introduction here. We love its cool collaborations with the likes of filmmaker David Lynch and jazz label Blue Note in its UT t-shirt collections and the capsule collection with Undercover, but it is their quality, affordable range of ready-to-wear that keeps us coming back for more. This season’s offerings include cool hues of baby blue and fuchsia, and timeless prints including checks and polka dots for both men and women.
Japanese food isn’t new to Singapore, but a couple of recent additions have really spiced up the scene. With so much to choose from, it’s hard to decide where to go. These, though, are our favorites.
Best Omakase: Ki-sho
Located in black-and-white colonial house Chateau Tcc is this new fine dining Japanese restaurant, with only three omakase sets ($230, $280 or $330) on the menu. Chef de cuisine Kazuhiro Hamamoto’s (ex-Waku Ghin) multi-course meals include seasonal ingredients featured in an assortment of appetizers, sashimi, nigirizushi, a HidaWagyu dish, miso soup and dessert. Sake fans (from $38/240ml, $248/bottle) are well-catered for thanks to a 50-strong collection of nihonshu with premium junmaidaiginjos.
Top Ramen: Tonkotsu King
This tiny 18-seater by Tokyo-based chef and ramen king Keisuke Takeda offers three flavors of ramen ($10.80-$15.80), all made with pork broth: original tonkotsu, black spicy (black pepper) and red spicy (red chili). You can even customize your portion by choosing between light, normal or strong soup intensity, as well as how hard or soft you like your noodles.
Best Sushi: Sushi Ichi
The first outpost of one-Michelin-starred Ginza Sushi Ichi has only 24 seats, spread out over two sushi counters and a private room. Their kaiseki-only menus are dominated by nigirizushi, each piece expertly crafted before your eyes. There are a mere four different sets to choose from during lunch ($60-$250). Prices get steep in the evening, though, with the most conservative option going for $210, while the top tier omakase’s a cool $450.
Best Yakiniku: Japanese BBQ Yakiniku Yazawa
Give in to your carnivorous tendencies at this Japanese DIY BBQ establishment serving slices of succulent Kurobutakalbi, Berkshire pig rib ($15), flavorsome tori momo-niku (which is sliced boneless chicken marinated in spicy miso sauce, $15), and nakaniku, black cattle beef brisket ($40). Another noteworthy dish is tokuseireimen ($18), cold noodles in chilled chicken broth.
Top Kushikatsu: HAN
Osaka specialty kushikatsu, deep-fried Japanese skewers, are the star here. Chef Seiichiro Arakawa is the man responsible for the amazingly light, panko-crusted goodness such as eggplant topped with foiegras and sprinkled with truffle salt, cherry tomato stuffed with cream cheese and topped with sundried tomato puree, and Omi sirloin. At lunch, you can get a set of seven sticks for $75, while kushikatsuomakase sets start at $120 for 10 sticks for dinner.
Best Value: Ikoi
It isn’t easy getting a reservation for this à la carte buffet. And for good reason; it’s a great deal. $42 gets you thick slices of sashimi, yakitori, tempura and noodle dishes (thankfully not oversized; they’re not trying too hard to fill you up on carbs).
There was a time when all Singapore had to offer in the way of Japanese booze was the odd exorbitantly-priced sake stocked at high-end Japanese restaurants. Now, Nippon cocktails, whisky and beer are part of our regular drinking rotation. Here are some top places to get your fill.
JiBiru Japanese Craft Beer Bar
Singapore’s first establishment to exclusively serve fine Japanese brews is outfitted with low wooden tables and Japanese-style curtains, with a couple of shoji-screen style embellishments. There are extensive ranges of Shiga Kogen ($12.50) and Hitachino Nest (from $8). As for food, all your Japanese favorites are available, including curries (from $12), tempura (from $3.50) and the like.
With a brightly colored floor mural designed by Miami Ink’s Chris Garver, coupled with exposed pipes and light fixtures fashioned from fishing hooks, the design aesthetic is anything but the norm. It’s the perfect place for after hour drinks if you work by the bay while you chill out to an infectious blend of hip hop and funk. Like its food, the cocktail menu here has an Asian twist so expect quirky concoctions such as the Ginger Kumquat Caipirinha ($18) and Ume Mojito ($18).
This "secret" bar takes its cues from Japanese drinking dens (think: exclusive whiskies, careful techniques and dark corners, courtesy of designers Asylum), but does away with the stuffiness (and the impenetrable menus) to create somewhere that for all its "exclusivity" is a reliable bet for a well-made drink.
They sell four flights of sake here, categorized according to flavor: Refreshing, Rich, Amai (sweet), and Karakuchi (dry). You get three cups filled to the brim for $30, and if it’s not too busy (get there before 8pm) the server will describe the origin and characteristics of each type of sake. Otherwise, you can read about them in the tome-like menu.
Contemporary Japanese artists Yayoi Kusama, Takashi Murakami and Yoshitomo Nara need no introduction. And it's easier than ever to find their works. Their pieces are available in Singapore thanks to the recent addition of three contemporary Japanese art galleries at Gillman Barracks, and Murakami’s very own Kaiki Kiki Gallery scheduled to open midway through this year.
One of the first galleries to bring in a wide collection of works by Yoshitomo Nara. In fact, owner Jasmine Tay struck a deal with Nara to release limited-edition art prints and t-shirts from just $59. Nara’s coveted works aside, you can also get Yayoi Kusama’s collectible polka-dotted cushions (available in both red and white) for $490 each here.
Dedicated to the further development and expansion of the Japanese art market, Mizuma Gallery supports young Japanese talent. Since 1994, it has emphasized art offering a critique of modern consumer culture. This is reflected through its wide range of works spanning various mediums including product design, home furnishing and installations besides paintings.
Although the gallery does not only support Japanese artists, it was one of the first few which showcased works by Yayoi Kusama when it first opened in the Ebisu area in Tokyo. It's a smallish gallery at Gillman Barracks currently showing an impressive installation work by Nobuaki Takekawa, part of Japan’s new wave of emerging artists. The ongoing exhibition We Are Pirates of Uncharted History features impressive installation views of massive pirate ships and maps painstakingly realized by the artist.
The Singapore outpost of the acclaimed gallery carries an archival collection of works by Yoshitomo Nara and KishioSuga. The upcoming exhibition Summer into Winter (Mar 8-Apr 7) by Atsushi Fukui is one to look forward to, with works featuring Fukui’s signature mushroom and girl motifs across various paintings depicting foreign open spaces and everyday scenarios which evoke a sense of nostalgia, playfulness and tranquillity.
Ikeda Spa don’t have actual mineral springs, but they do have the next best thing. Start off with a traditional tea ceremony in the spa’s in-house rock garden, detox over a ganbanyoku (bed made of hot volcanic rocks from the Hakone hot springs) and relax in an onsen-style hot tub made of fragrant Japanese cypress. While you’re there (and assuming you’re game), try their award-winning Geisha Organic Facial, which uses skincare products from Kyoto and nightingales’ droppings (yes, seriously) to produce a clear and seemingly flawless complexion.
If you prefer your Japanese-style spa experience with a modern feel, visit this luxurious destination that’s fitted with separate bathing areas for men and women, each with jet, plunge and onsen-style pools. And they’ve got something traditional onsens don’t—sleep pods so you can squeeze in a quick power nap before moving on to the rest of your day.
Getting to Japan
Known for being a pricey holiday destination, the Land of the Rising Sun is more accessible than ever with new budget flights introduced over the last year running regularly to mega cities and reaching even the nation’s lesser-known towns.
Japan’s capital Tokyo never gets old with its great shopping, dining and nightlife. Scoot flies there via Taipei for $690 return. It’s also a great base to explore the rest of the country.
A little quieter (but just a little) is the second biggest city Osaka. The pretty metropolis, known for its hearty street food (think, golden okonomiyaki and takoyaki), hosts prime events like TenjinMatsuri (July 24-25), a glorious city-wide festival devoted to the gods, featuring traditional puppet shows and a 3,000 people-strong procession. Jetstar flies to Osaka for around $775 return.
For off-the-beaten-path bragging rights, AyakoFuruya Sogo, editor of Mangosteen Club/WAttention (read the full interview) recommends heading to southwestern island Kyushu. She says, “The area has a rich culture and history as well as delicious local specialities.” It’s also home to the country’s most active volcano, Mount Aso. Get to Fukuoka, a major city in the northern part of the island with AirAsia Japan. The carrier flies from Tokyo to Fukuoka for JPY10,360 ($164) return.
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Keeping things hush-hush is all the rage. Here in Singapore, it seems like every other new bar wants to keep itself a secret. Places with their entrances hidden within other restaurants, spaces tucked away in narrow alleyways and establishments you’ll need a password to enter—we've got all this and more.
“We keep a lower profile compared to the big and brash establishments because we prefer to focus on building a community and an audience rather than simply advertising for any customers to walk-in,” says Gan Kwok Yee, general manager and founder of cocktail bar Jigger & Pony. “I think it helps attract people who want a place that is not too commercial, and ironically makes them all the more excited to share this community with their friends and colleagues.”
Secret bars are far from a new phenomenon. Pioneering cocktail joints like New York’s PDT (aka Please Don’t Tell), Employees Only and Little Branch years ago set the trend for watering holes with a Prohibition era speakeasy vibe. London, too, has its share of hidden spots including Milk & Honey and Mayor of Scaredy Cat Town, with unconventional and nondescript addresses. And it’s not just drinking haunts that have chosen to remain secret. From Melbourne soba specialist Yu-u to New York’s Burger Joint (concealed behind a curtain at the lobby of Le Parker Meridien Hotel), some of the best food in big cities is now found at purposefully mysterious locales. We've also seen the rise of guerilla dining clubs where you can eat with strangers..
It’s really no surprise that the cosmopolitan Little Red Dot has its own little mysteries. Not all covert locations are new. We’ve long had venues so exclusive that the general public barely knows about them (like the Pyramid Club, a semi-secret stronghold for the political elite at Goodwood Park). And in recent times, even more hidden haunts have joined the fold, all with the same under-the-radar buzz. Here we share some of the island’s best-kept secrets, so you too can partake in the underground scene.
These watering holes are as secretive as bars of the bygone Prohibition era, but that's precisely what adds to their appeal.
It’s all very hush-hush really (no signage, just a nondescript door), but this neat cocktail bar is one of the city’s best-kept secrets. The almost non-existent lighting from old-fashioned bulbs and cozy ambiance make for a great speakeasy vibe. Unlike most other cocktail bars, food here is actually pretty damn good. Try the truffle mac & cheese balls ($12) to go with the carefully curated menu of tipples including a barrel-aged negroni ($25). The crowd’s just as cool as the vibe: arty types, scenesters and chefs.
With its entrance hidden inside Malaysian restaurant PappaMia at a River Valley shophouse, this joint set up by the Association of Bartenders and Sommeliers of Singapore (ABSS) serves as a training space for barmen in the daytime. But what you might not know is that the place also switches into full bar mode in the evening. There’s a wide range of spirits and liqueurs stocked at the comfy, laid-back joint (with a video game machine and a pool table). Cocktails—mixed by trainees—start at a mere $9 and pack a real punch (though don’t expect anything too creative: it’s just classics here).
The latest bespoke cocktail bar on the scene is located along North Canal Road, a short walk from 28 HongKong Street. The entrance is tucked behind new eatery Shoebox Canteen, with discreet signage on the mailbox. With stripped bare walls and old-school floor tiling, the joint has an anti-establishment aesthetic. Owner-barkeeper Din Hassan whips up drinks to your taste, most costing between $17-23 nett. You might get concoctions such as the unusual Kaya Toast ($19), with dark Mount Gay rum, Earl Grey tea, fresh lemon juice, honey and kaya, as well as classics like the Penicillin ($22).
Hidden behind a curtain inside the rather unassuming Uma Uma Ramen is a door. And behind that door is a staircase. And at the bottom of that staircase is... a really rather pleasant bar that takes its cues from Japanese drinking dens (think: exclusive whiskeys, careful techniques and dark corners, courtesy of designers Asylum), but does away with the stuffiness (and the impenetrable menus) to create somewhere that for all its "exclusivity" is a reliable bet for a well-made drink. It's so easygoing, in fact, that Japanese clients from the adjacent kaiseki joint barely recognise it as one of their own; and don't tend to stay for long. Which means more limited edition Hitachino Nest beers for the rest of us.
47 Keong Saik Road
Those in the know head to the cool password-only bar right next to Jason Atherton’s casual Western eatery. You can get the secret phrase off their Facebook page or from the eager servers at the restaurant. Give the password to the bookkeeper who’ll let you in a mirrored door. Once in, brace yourself for serious drinks, care of Canadian bartender Stefan Ravalli who’s done his time at Atherton’s Pollen Street Social. Tiki fans will dig Piscotheque ($21), with passion fruit, pineapple, mint leaves and BarSol Pisco. The sake-spiked Moshi Moshi Umeboshi ($21) is a nice refreshing drink, too.
Throw back some top-notch sips at these occasional drink specialists.
Here’s a little known way to get your fill of suds from homegrown brewhouse Jungle Beer Brewery. The open brewery tour and free-flow deal happens every second Saturday of the month, 6:30-11:30pm, and no reservations are necessary. Beer master Aditya Challa will take you around the facility and show you the tools of the trade—tanks, malt and pungent hops—then you get to imbibe the fruits of his labor with an all-you-can-drink draft craft beer deal for $40. There’s a rotating lineup of flavors such as mango, orange and even coffee. The next one happens February 16 (it got pushed back a little for the CNY holidays).
For a little more variety, Cult Beer Club’s a hush-hush group of beer lovers who gather to taste progressive international bottles by cult favorite brewers (think names like Mikkeller, DeMolen and DeStruise). They sample the suds at tasting sessions which sometimes feature more than 40 labels. To sign up, email info@thedrinkingpartners.com.
Brews of another sort can be found at Liberty Coffee. The coffee roaster is a familiar name around town, providing fresh java to cafés such as Artistry in Kampong Glam. But you might not know that they open up every now and then as a coffee bar. You can find the opening hours online on their website. (Though you’ll have to check in pretty regularly, updates are usually posted just a day before they open.) As they’re primarily a wholesaler, the team works their retail hours around the roasting schedule.
Some of the best food items in town aren’t on the bill of fare. Here are some great unlisted dishes that'll impress your dining partners.
Frutti di Mare
First cooked up at the request of popular food blogger Dr Leslie Tay of ieatishootipost.sg this briny seafood tomato pasta dish quickly became a hotly requested item. But Cugini has continued to keep it off the menu. Corrado Riccio, the group’s operations director says, “We believe guests always feel a bit special ordering an item using insider knowledge.” For extra credit, order up the less well-known white sauce version.
$29.90 at Cugini.
Lambgasm
In addition to not being listed on the menu, you’ll have to order this eight-hour slow-roasted 2.8kg lamb leg about three days in advance. But it’s totally worth it for this fall-off-the-bone specialty. Plus it comes with bread, salad and a variety of dips including cheese and hummus. Bring friends; remember, sharing is caring.
$200 from Artichoke Café + Bar.
Sambal Belimbing
This dish started out as a Sunday special and isn't on the main menu. But you can do like the regulars do and make a special request for the hard-to-find Eurasian recipe comprising belimbing—a long oval fruit with an intense sour flavor—fresh shrimp and red chili gravy.
$20 at Immigrants.
Another worldwide phenomenon alive and well in Singapore is secret supper clubs. Check out these exclusive dining experiences for intimate evenings with like-minded foodies.
Known for hosting their events at exclusive spots like the Pyramid Club, this dining club reveals the location of each event to RSVPed individuals just two days before the dinner. Pang Hian Tee, one of its founders says, “We like interesting and off-the beaten-track places and usually work with spaces that will allow us to best showcase the talent or activity we’re presenting.” Priced from $130-250, the meals are prepared by well-known local cooks such as Jimmy Chok and Heather Barrie, with handpicked wines from fine producers like Champagne Legras & Haas. They’ve even had live performances by Romanian singer Maya Nova, Japanese jazz pianist Aya Sekine and local duo Zsa and Claire.
The fourth 2013 installment of this supper club goes down on February 13 at 7:30pm. Helmed by 28-year-old Zina Alam, the meals cost around $60 a head and are announced anything from two weeks to a month before the event. All are held at Alam’s family home in the west coast. Expect five to eight dishes at every dinner, plus a welcome drink such as homemade lemonade or tamarind juice. Recipes are home-style Bangladeshi recipes which Alam cooks with her mother. The upcoming supper will debut a family favorite of coconut, tamarind and crab.
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If you’ve had it with posing in front of monuments, why not do some good and get to really meet the locals.
Voluntourism is hardly new, but it’s only just catching on with Asian travelers, Sangklaburi, a small town on the Thai-Burma border in Kanchanaburi, has been a top destination for voluntourists for almost a decade. First-timers to Sangklaburi will certainly be surprised to see so many foreigners milling about working on projects to help the Mon communities. But Thais are more than welcome, too.
One of the most famous volunteer programs in Thailand is Kru Bannok, in Chiang Rai, under the direction of the Mirror Foundation, first formed in 2001. Supaporn Bangmung is a finance manager whose quest for new ways of traveling led her to get involved with Kru Bannok. “I just got bored of taking my own photographs at tourist attractions. Sure, it makes me happy, but I believe I can do something good for others, too, by being a giver, rather than a receiver.”
Her first trip was to Chiang Mai, where she ended up going it alone. “My friend couldn’t make it, so I had to go by myself. But as everybody there had a voluntary mind, I was welcomed warmly and without awkwardness. We taught children as well as prepared activities for them over a couple of days.”
Supaporn explains that nothing compares to the feeling of giving. “I’m not a kid person. But once I interacted with them closer, I was touched by their sincerity. I never thought that I would be so important to them. I proved to myself, too, that I can really do things to help others.”
On top of emotional fulfillment, you also get a chance to make new friends. “Volunteers come from all sorts of backgrounds. One I met was there to get over his heartbreak. Ages vary, too, from a five-year-old kid tagging along with his mother to retired executives. But all of them are friendly and willing to make new friends.”
Supaporn adds that in order to be a good volunteer it pays to have the right attitude—sage advice for any traveler. “You need to be an empty glass and just be happy with everything that goes your way—even if it’s not what you were expecting. Everything is a life lesson.”
Restoration Works
Kru Bannok. One of Thailand’s longest-running volunteer programs started out under the Mirror Foundation in 1991 aiming to educate children in rural areas. So far, Kru Bannok has organized more than 150 trips that have drawn thousands of participants. Volunteers are required to travel to the project’s headquarters in Chiang Rai, before moving on to designated villages. Periods of stay vary from three days to basically as long as you wish. Fees for short-term stays are B1,500-2,500, which pays for your meals and transportation. The next trip will be to Baan Mae Aok Tai, Sob Mei, Mae Hong Son, from Feb 22-25. www.bannok.com/volunteer
Restoration Works International. Formerly known as the Cultural Restoration Tourism Project, this organization seeks to create economic and social benefits for local communities by restoring culturally important sites in Chhairo, Nepal. Volunteers and locals work side by side to restore religious landmarks and exchange cross-cultural understanding. The upcoming program runs Apr 15-26 and costs you around B91,230 inclusive of all transportation and meals within Nepal. www.restorationworksinternational.org
Red Bull Spirit. Sponsored by the energy drink empire, Red Bull Spirit is celebrating its fifth anniversary this year with the Red Bull Unite 5 trip to Salak Phra Wildlife Reserve in Kanchanaburi on Jan 26-27. Volunteers will be helping officials to build dikes and barriers to prevent wildfires. There will also be a small live concert at the end of the program, too. There is no charge but it’s limited to 500 volunteers only. www.redbullspirit.org
Habitat for Humanity. An international non-profit organization that specializes in building homes for those in need. And as they don’t want house owners to sit back and watch us doing the dirty work, volunteers work shoulder to shoulder with them. In Thailand alone, they have already built some 8,800 houses. Programs and locations vary so check their website for more info. www.habitatthailand.org
Organic Farm. Laos’ Vang Vieng has shed its backpacker paradise image, making volunteering there much more pleasurable for peace seekers. Located north of the Song River, some 4km from Vang Vieng town center, the Organic Farm is the hub for several community projects including chemical-free mulberry tea farming and goat cheese production. It welcomes volunteers who can help out either working on the farm or teaching English to kids in the village. You can go anytime and stay as long as you wish. Accommodation is 30,000-250,000 kip (B120-1,000) per night, depending on how fancy it is (www.laofarm.org).
Check out websites and webboards of volunteer communities to get the lowdown on upcoming projects; start with the Thai Volunteer Service Foundation (www.thaivolunteer.org), VolunteerSpirit Network (www.volunteerspirit.org) and Red Bull Spirit (www.redbullspirit.org).
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Home to long-time culinary stalwarts like Swee Choon Tim Sum Restaurant, Cheng Mun Chee Kee Pig Organ Soup, Beach Road Scissor-Cut Curry Rice and Lavender Food Square, this neighborhood has been a popular foodie destination for years. It’s also home to some of the city’s sleazier nightspots and other “establishments”. But with a new crop of hip eateries, cool bars and creative offices, the depth and sophistication of what Jalan Besar has to offer is growing. While it hasn’t taken over Tiong Bahru as an It spot—Harry Grover of 40 Hands (in Tiong Bahru) and Broadcast HQ (in Jalan Besar) agrees that it’s still “a year away” from becoming a destination in its own right—we reckon Jalan Besar won’t stay under-the-radar for long, especially with the MRT Station of the same name opening in 2017 (even sooner is nearby Rochor MRT Station in 2015). Here’s why.
Jalan Besar, which means “big road” in Malay, was once a swampland of betel nut, nipah palm and fruit trees owned by the Norris brothers in the 1830s. Shophouses, factories, and religious sites later took over the landscape with the onslaught of urbanization after World War I, together with like abattoirs (the street was also known as “the slaughter pig depot in Kampong Kapor”) and municipal refuse facilities. The now-conserved area, lined with Late, Transitional and Art Deco architecture, was also a place of entertainment: New World Amusement Park drew the night crowd with its host of cabaret shows, opera performances and boxing matches, while football fans gathered at Jalan Besar Stadium. For those who want to explore the neighborhood a little more, the National Heritage Board (www.nhb.gov.sg) relaunched its heritage trail of Jalan Besar in August last year, featuring new sites including Syed Alwi Road, Allenby House and International House, People’s Association (formerly Victoria’s School) and Holy Trinity Church.
One of the earliest to set foot in Jalan Besar was French patisserie Antoinette, which threw open its doors in June 2011. The Broers Café, a minimalist coffee house by barista brothers Kiat and Han, moved in a month later. Fast-forward a year on, Spa Esprit Group (the same people behind big-hitters like Tiong Bahru Bakery, 40 Hands and Open Door Policy) joined forces with the Grover brothers to set up Broadcast HQ, a modish bar-restaurant-retail space housed in a restored two-story shop house. Others loving and contributing to the nostalgic feel of the district include new arrival Kam Leng Hotel, wherechic American diner Suprette is located. The boutique hotel, restored and designed by local agency FARM, retains a ’20s retro vibe (afterall, it was originally built in 1927). Room rates are pretty affordable, too, from $130 per night. Then, there's Chye Seng Huat Hardware, a contemporary coffee joint with a 360-degree bar, a roaster and a tasting room that also made a point to keep its original Art Deco façade of the building. Located on the second floor of the same building is Tyrwhitt General Company where you can purchase handcrafted bags and accessories made by emerging designers. And the latest to mark their territory in the precinct: Windowsill Pies and Bellwethers, both shy of a month old. The former is siblingowners Jonathan and Sean Gwee’s first sitdown pie and tart shop (they were doing only takeaways and deliveries previously). “We were looking around for a relatively unloved neighborhood and finally settled in this location largely because it's on the cusp of both town and the east,” says Sean Gwee. “Also, it wasn’t clinically clean liketown and has a touch of wildness to it.” Bellwethers, meanwhile, is a new urbane bistro-bar located in the red-light district of Desker Road sharing a back lane with Broadcast HQ.
Jalan Besar Stadium, also known as the “birthplace of football”, is the home ground for the Singapore LIONSXII soccer team. Now on the field is the second season of Malaysia Super League 2013 and its next game between LIONSXII and Pahang kicks off on Feb 15, 7:45pm. Tickets are available at $88 upwards for the entire season or $4 upwards for indvidual matches from TicketBooth (www.ticketbooth.com.sg). Located within the same premises is Jalan Besar Swimming Complex, one of the very best public pools in the city, and a great place to cool off (its super-cheap admission at $1 on weekdays, $1.30 on weekends, is a major draw).
Art establishments, such as At Ease Gallery and The Artists Village, are adding another dimension to Jalan Besar’s eclecticism. Those seeking affordable art pieces should check out At Ease Gallery, which showcases contemporary works by local and international up-and-coming artists. Started by contemporary artist Tang Da Wu in 1988, TAV is Singapore’s first local artist colony. Originally from 61B Lorong Gambas in Sembawang, the community moved several times before settling down in Jalan Besar, where it continues to promote and encourage experimental and alternative arts in Singapore, having produced projects such as Public Art Library (2003).
There’s nothing like keeping costs low (unlike TB where rents have gone over the roof); no wonder smaller creative enterprises decided to set up offices along the big street. The crew here run the gamut from advertising to architecture—boutique “idea house” DoodleRoom (www.doodleroom.com), brand consultancy Consulus (www.consulus.com), PR agency 20twenty Public Relations (www.20twentypr.com) and interior design firm Kurios Interior Design (www.kuriosdesign.com.sg), as well as architectural firm FUUR Associates (www.fuur.com). The latter is responsible for designing Suprette at Kam Leng Hotel. “We moved here because it was relatively more affordable than the Arab Street area where we were previously at,” says Ken-Hin Teo, founder of FUUR. “Jalan Besar is an interesting neighbourhood, a bit under the radar, but places like Kam Leng Hotel and CSHH are drawing the attention it is getting now.” Holman Chin, who moved into the neighborhood in 2007, doesn’t quite agree that rent for residential properties is necessarily cheaper. “I know there’s another house with three bedrooms at $3,500 a month,” says the deputy director of NUS Development Office. “I was looking for an older place to renovate, and I got exactly that (with the conservation front apartment). It’s very spacious and private.” But renting old spaces, as Gilbert Chua of 9Frames Photography points out (the company moved two years ago to Sin Ming Lane), isn't without its drawbacks. “The landlord didn’t maintain the shophouse properly, though yes, rental is cheaper and sweeter, and the neighborhood is charming.”
Planning a getaway to Singapore? Here are some things to check out away from Jalan Besar.
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With slick dark wood furnishings, concrete floors and its name emblazoned graffiti-style across the wall, this tapas joint gives off a raw, urban vibe. Bites like boiled octopus with potato, paprika and olive oil ($14) and stewed beans with spicy chorizo ($9.80) are on the menu, alongside sweets such as crema catalana ($9.80) and the District 10 sour cherry sundae ($11).
A great option when you've over indulged, this raw food eatery serves healthy fruit entrees in six flavors: The berry-based Forest ($9.90), Mediterranean ($8.90), which includes fresh figs, Tropical ($7.90), a mix of rose apple and mango sauce, Summer Orchard ($9.90), featuring nectarines, Grapevine ($8.90) with apples and grapes, and Asian Fusion ($7.90), dragonfruit in ginseng dressing. Besides these fruit salads, there are also cold press juices ($6.80)—such as the Chestnut Cooler and Wild Wild Berries—enzyme shots ($2), including longan and beetroot as well as pineapple kiwi (to aid digestion), and side dishes ($2.50) like salsa with nut-based chips. Nothing is heated beyond 43 degrees Celsius to retain the nutrients.
Flavors like pistachio and lemon are the specialty at this respected Italian gelato chain making its Singapore debut at The Star Vista. Order a cup (from $4.80), cone (from $4.50) or—for an extra buck—get them to shape your gelato into a rose ($5.80). Don’t leave without checking out the quirky wooden Pinocchio statue and figurines at the back of the store.
Package coffee giant Owl’s debut café is a comfortable wood-covered space with signature sips like 100% Authentic Kopi Luwak ($18.90)—civet coffee with coffee caviar—and charcoal roasted coffee ($8.90). If you’re not a caffeine fan, there are also peach smoothies ($4.90) and soursop freezes ($4.90). Order food from a fusion menu with dishes such as spaghetti with laksa sauce ($9.90), as well as the roti bakar assam nanas ($4.50), toast with tamarind sauce, ham and pineapple.
At this 180-seat American smokehouse, chow down on the signature Sticky Bones ribs (full slab $36.90; half slab $24.90 —in Hickory BBQ, smoked peppercorn and spicy Tuscan flavors—or have them pulled in the Morgan’s Hot Rib Sandwich ($19.90). For lighter bites, there are salads like the chicken Caesar ($17.90) and snacks such as bacon-wrapped meatballs ($9.90). While you’re at it, throw back cocktails like the strawberry apple mojito and Long Island iced tea, available by the glass ($15.90) or by the pitcher ($38.90).
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This neighborhood is enjoying a resurgence, with many new openings in Bukit Timah. Restaurants such as New York-styled Little Diner, casual Mediterranean restaurant Onion, and Peranakan restaurant Violet Oon's kitchen have all opened in the past 12 months and quickly started rolling in the crowds.
The idea of eating raw food may turn some people off, but for the initiated, there is no better way to detox. And over at The Living Café, part of wellness and holistic center Balanced Living, you can do both in a white-washed, minimal setting. Everything about this Bukit Timah café feels welcoming, from the cheery, knowledgeable waitstaff to the very pretty dessert counter and smooth jazz and downtempo. Their signature dishes Living Café Roll ($12) and raw taco boats ($12) are nothing short of excellent. There are also sandwiches, pastas and meat dishes on the menu to suit more mainstream tastes.
The Living Cafe, 779 Bukit Timah Rd.
The Living Cafe's taco boats
Modeled after a casual New York-style restaurant, this latest addition to Bukit Timah opened just over three months ago. Brace yourself for large portions of comfort food such as Lafayette crab cakes ($13) and Rosario’s fried risotto balls with basil pesto ($10.50). To go with the food, there’s a pretty good list of wines (from $10/glass; eight house vinos), housed in their 4.7-meter-tall rack which holds a 950-bottle collection.
Little Diner, 789 Bukit Timah Rd.
Little Diner's fried risotto balls with basil pesto
This Mediterranean restaurant serves up fare such as chilled seafood platters (from $68.80), tapas like gambas al ajillo (Spanish tiger prawns with garlic and bell peppers; $10.80) and oysters with Cava ($12.80 for two). Onion Restaurant & Bar is a relaxed spot that even offers more substantial Western mains including roasted lamb rack with red wine sauce ($25.80) and braised chicken stew in rosemary-garlic sauce ($16.80).
Onion Restaurant & Bar, #01-01, 791 Bukit Timah Rd.
Onion Restaurant's seafood platter
The second outlet of this popular wine shop (they’ve recently launched their fourth and latest at Republic Plaza) houses about 800 wines, with an emphasis on France (specifically Bordeaux), Australia and Italy. Bottles start at a very affordable $28 for South African offerings, and there are even a few tables and chairs to enjoy wine if you want to have your purchases there. While they don’t serve food, they’re pretty chill about you ordering food in from the neighboring coffee shops and nearby restaurants.
1855 the Bottle Shop, #01-03, 8 Sixth Ave.
more restaurants in Bukit Timah
This informal café is relatively new to Bukit Timah and opened by the same folks who brought you Chums Steak House in Toa Payoh and Onion Restaurant & Bar. Early birds can pop by for classics like French toast ($11.90) and Eggs Ben ($15.60), while evenings see more substantial eats such as bouillabaisse ($27.90). They even have a sweet one-for-one happy hour promo on house wines (from $9) every Wednesday to Friday from noon to closing.
Chums - A Place Like Home, #01-06 Royal Ville, 833 Bukit Timah Rd., 6467-1939, www.chums.sg.
Violet Oon’s been keeping busy with her most recent venture, a welcoming family-run black-and-white outfit. As you’d expect, there are Peranakan items on the menu including full-flavored classics like ayam buah keluak ($22) and beef rendang ($22), made even better with some spicy sambal belachan. Alternatively, there are also Western items like shepherd’s pie ($17) and bread & butter pudding with whiskey sauce ($13), as well as local-inspired dishes like hae bee hiam panini ($16) and bubor cha cha panna cotta ($9) to be had.
Violet Oon's Kitchen, 881 Bukit Timah Rd.
Violet Oon's Kitchen's ayam buah keluak
It’s hard to find Greek restaurants in Singapore, and this one’s a real gem. Sure, the three-story setup makes a mean first impression and it boasts a charming Mediterranean vibe with a classic seaside white and blue color scheme, wooden tables and chairs. But it’s the authentic Greek food they serve that keeps us coming back; even the extra virgin olive oil used is made from handpicked organic olives from the Tsakiris’ family estate in the hills of Messinea.
Blu Kouzina, 893 Bukit Timah Rd.
Blu Kouzina in Bukit Timah
Raw yet chic, this five-month-old corner shophouse venue is populated with cool repurposed pieces like benches fashioned from wood flooring. Food-wise, it’s a bit of an eclectic mix with everything from the hearty 903 burger ($16) to fettuccine rendang ($16) to Outpost Wings ($12), marinated in Nyonya sambal. Aside from the usual suspects, this laid-back haunt also has six beers on tap including three craft brews (from $9/pint), bottled beers (from $6) and cocktails ($10), too.
Outpost 903 Gastrobar, 903 Bukit Timah Rd.
Outpost 903 Gastrobar in Bukit Timah
more bars in Bukit Timah
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In our Aug 17 issue, we asked, “What Really Pisses You Off Bangkok?” More than half of you picked traffic (57%) as your main grumble. That got us thinking about what it would take to fix your number one problem.
After all, we’re currently seeing more and more cars pouring onto our city’s streets (helped in part by government-sponsored B100,000 tax breaks). It appears our solution is to update the city’s infrastructure to make way for all those new cars, by building bridges, fly-overs and parking lots. This means pedestrians are forced to crawl, climb and duck past these cars in an attempt to keep the traffic moving. (Why don’t those two-legged shmucks buy a car already?) The end result is a gigantic traffic jam, terrible walkability, high pollution, high energy dependancy and a massive bill for all those infrastructure upgrades. Moreover, the traffic still sucks. That’s pretty much the model Bangkok is in right now—and its the situation that a lot of major cities like London, Singapore or Paris were facing 10 or 20 years ago.
The alternative solution that most of these cities went for was simple. Encourage people to stop using their cars. You build more and better public transport. You make sure walking is a better experience than driving (tear down pedestrian walkovers and let the cars wait at red lights, for example). You ensure public transport is a better experience than driving (let the cars sit in traffic jams while clean, air-con buses speed down their dedicated lanes). You basically say, “Hey, if you want to have your own personal vehicle, that’s fine, but we won’t sacrifice our city for your lifestyle choices.”
The problem with this alternative solution is it assumes you have a choice: either drive or use public transport. Many people in Bangkok don’t have that choice. Where they live, there’s no public transportation (or no good public transportation). As a result, you simply can’t ask those people to drive less. Here, we’ve listed why people are still dependant on their cars and what is currently being done to address that. Hopefully, it will inspire greater efforts to make Bangkok less reliant on cars so that this month’s Car Free Day is not just be a blip in a never-ending stream of traffic jams.
“I really want to use the BTS or MRT but there are no stations near where I live on Ekkachai Road. Instead I have to drive for over an hour to get into town when there’s traffic.”
Pasaraporn Mongkolruengrawee, 34, business owner. Drives from Ekkachai Road to town 3-4 days a week.
What’s being done: The opening of the BTS Silom line to Bangwa, scheduled for Dec 5, is just the first in a raft of extensions to the existing BTS and MRT lines over the next few years:
2016: Green line (Mo Chit-Saphan Mai, 19km), Blue line (Hualamphong-Bang Kae, Bang Sue-Tha Phra, 27.2km)
Pink line (Carai-Meenburi, 21km)
Green line (Bearing-Samutprakarn, 16.8km)
2018: Orange line (Bang Kapi-Meen Buri, 24km)
2019: Orange line Talingchan-Cultural Center 17.5km) and the Purple line (Taopoon-Ratchaburana, 43km).
Why it’s not enough: The BTS and MRT keep pushing into the suburbs, but nothing is being done to improve transport along the busiest roads in town, such as Phetburi, Ekkamai, Sathorn, Rama 3 and Rama 9—not to mention the lack of interconnections.
“The park and ride at Mo Chit is convenient for me but it’s prone to flooding during heavy rain. There are no basic facilities, like toilets, either. Also, it’s quite scary at night, as there are not enough security guards. They only show up at 1am to tell you that the parking lot is closed and that you cannot take your car home...Very helpful.”
Wanwasa Kaewchompu, 33, loan officer.
Drives from Rangsit to Mo Chit and takes the BTS to get into town a couple of times a week
What’s being done: The Energy Ministry gave B43 million to the BMA and State Railway of Thailand to create the park and ride parking lots at MRT Bang Sue and BTS Mo Chit, which both offer free parking to 3,000 cars each. At MRT Ladprao there is space for 2,200 cars, at a fee of B10 per hour.
Why it’s not enough: Overcrowded parking lots lead to damaged cars and women don’t feel safe in them. The bigger problem, though, is that park and rides don’t even exist at most end of the line stations, including Bearing, National Stadium and Wongwian Yai.
“I hate that there are so many things on the sidewalk. For starters, motorcycles always use the pavement as a shortcut. Things only get worse when it rains, especially when the drains don’t work properly. There are too many stalls on my route, too. I don’t want to smell like grilled pork when I have a date that night!”
Pannakan Jiramahakhun, 33, trade marketing.
Walks to and from MRT Ladprao daily.
What’s being done: Seemingly, nothing. The only plan to come out of the BMA for better walkability involved building a “Super Skywalk” that would run along parts of Rama 1-Sukhumvit, Ratchadamri and Phaya Thai, increasing the existing skywalk’s total length from 1.5km to 16km and ultimately 32km in a second phase. The project has since been quietly shelved.
Why it’s not enough: Pedestrian bridges offer terrible walkability: they’re disabled-unfriendly, they block views and they don’t offer comfortable walking because of the steep stairs you need to climb. According to experts, sidewalks should be 2.5 meters wide, with trees and disabled-friendly slopes (see below). Streets should have zebra crossings, not bridges.
“I would ditch my car if there was a nice public bus that didn’t look like a motorized wooden shack driven by idiots on amphetamines.”
Alisara Chirapongse, 26, online media manager.
Travels from Pattanakarn to Ploenchit daily.
What’s being done: Bangkok has a total of 7,500 buses, 3,509 of which are operated by the Bangkok Mass Transit Authority (BMTA) and 4,016 by private companies. Some 1,600 of BMTA buses are non-air-con. Finance Minister Kittirat attempted to revive the purchase order for 3,000 NGV buses from China at B3 million per bus but there’s been no news of a signed contract since.
Why it’s not enough: Bangkok needs more dedicated bus lanes so that people using public transport get rewarded with faster commutes, just like the BRT on Narathiwat (which is already packed during rush hour). The MRT, BTS and buses also need to share the same ticketing system, so that people who have to change systems three times to get to work don’t end up paying more than if they drove.
“I always have problems with taxi drivers. Whenever I tell them where I’m going, they reject me, giving me all sorts of reasons, whether it’s traffic or having to return their car. This one time I tried for hours before I eventually gave up trying to hail a taxi and had to spend another hour on a bus.”
Praorujee,23, official receiver. Commutes from Ratchapreuk Road to Lad Prao on weekdays.
What’s being done: Since this month, taxi drivers can now be fined B1,000 if they reject a fare. Register your complaints by calling 1584.
Why it’s not enough: Taxi drivers don’t take cars off the road, obviously, but good cabs do encourage public transport because they can act as a relay from public transport to your final destination—or take you home when you finish late for those who came into the city without a car. To be fair, taxis in Bangkok are cheap and plentiful, but still reject fares, particularly those most likely to drive into town because they live further away.
“I don’t understand why people who park their car in a bicycle lane don’t get a ticket from the police. Along Phra Athit Rd., I see everything from cars, metal fencing and even trash blocking the bike lane. The lane along the Ramintra expressway is also bumpy and gets slippery. There are no lights, which makes it even more dangerous. Bike lanes should be separated from the cars.”
Prutikorn Prajansakunee, 26, corporate communications officer. Rides his bicycle to town every week.
What’s being done: Bicycle symbols were painted on roads and sidewalks, such as on Ratchadamri.
What we’ve got: Unconnected bicycle lanes scattered over town, many of which have fallen into disrepair or are regularly blocked. It’s still dangerous to ride a bicycle in Bangkok’s traffic and the sidewalk bicycle lanes are used by motorcycle taxis and occupied by street stalls.
1.The width should be at least 2.5 meters so that two wheelchairs can pass each other comfortably.
2. The gradient from the sidewalk to road level should not exceed 30 degrees.
3Zebra crossings (crosswalks) at all intersections and every 100-120 meters.
4. Walking is entirely at street level: no skywalks or pedestrian bridges.
5.The Braille block path (for the blind) should be free of obstacles and consistently warn of intersections.
6. Vents in grates should be under a 1/2 inch and perpendicular to the direction of travel so that wheels on strollers or wheelchairs don’t get jammed in the grates.
7. Street vendors should have their own designated space, leaving the sidewalk to pedestrians.
8. Ideally, sidewalks should benefit from some kind of shade, either from trees or awnings. Trees also process carbon dioxide.
9. Bicycles lanes should be on the road, not the sidewalk. They should be one meter wide.
10. Surfaces should be smooth and free of any holes likely to make people trip.
Why does Bangkok have so many traffic issues?
It’s down to many factors. Bangkok has lots of laws regarding traffic issues, but the blame must go to both law enforcement officers and to the people who infringe them. We need to promote more moral and social responsibility. We must respect each other’s rights, and then we’ll have less traffic troubles. The BMA must make sidewalks more accessible for wheelchairs, introduce more lanes for bicycles, and ensure motorcyclists don’t take advantage of them. Sidewalks belong to pedestrians, not motorcycles or vendors. Law enforcement officers have a lot to handle so it’s better if everyone took more responsibility for their own actions.
Are there any plans for reducing the number of cars on Bangkok’s roads?
For the short-term we are focused on managing our roads. Hundreds of thousands of new cars are rolled out every year and it’s not possible to build new roads to accommodate all these cars. We need to better manage the existing roads to optimize their use. We’ve already installed LED road signs in 50 areas to keep people updated on traffic conditions. We also hope to develop a mobile phone app with iTIC (Intelli gence Traffic Information Center) to deliver commuters real-time traffic information to help them decide their route. We also just installed detectors which calculate the quantity of cars at 60 junctions throughout Bangkok so that traffic lights best meet the needs of the city. As for long-term plans, we aim to expand our mass transit system, namely the BTS and MRT, to cover all of Bangkok. We also have a plan to build a small monorail system covering the Soi Rangnam-Victory Monument-Dindaeng triangle now that the BMA has moved headquarters to Dindaeng. Finally, we plan to expand transport along the Sansaeb Canal further downstream to Minburi, too. We’ve already built the pier and we’re just waiting to test the route soon.
Are there any more plans to make Bangkok more bicycle-friendly?
We’re going to install a Bangkok public bicycles for rent scheme like what they have in Europe. People will use a smartcard that enables them to refill their money online. There will be 50 parking spots and about 300 bicycles available in Silom, Sathorn, Wireless Rd. and Pathumwan areas. The project just needs final approval. Hopefully we can implement it soon. But making Bangkok a bicycle-friendly city is a difficult task. Introducing proper bike lanes isn’t something that everybody is happy about, especially drivers. What we need is more time to open up people’s minds to such ideas.
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Astrid Dahl Studio Gallery
Located in one of Boat Quay's refurbished shophouses, Australian artist Astrid Dahl’s studio is quaint yet lively, with mixed media painting classes held every Tuesdays through Thursdays. Perk up your living room with one of Dahl’s colorful and impressionistic landscape works, available for sale from $800.
Absinthe Artisan
The fact that this elegant French spot would move to Boat Quay from Bukit Pasoh says a lot about the newfound optimism surrounding the Singapore river. It’s the perfect place to unwind with a glass of good wine and slices of cheese. For a hearty meal, don’t miss their signature Foie Gras Poêlé ($29), pan fried foie gras accompanied with warm blinis and morello cherries, or the Lapin ($39), braised rabbit leg Provencale-style, served with crushed potatoes and broccolini. Très magnifique.
Bar 57
Hole-in-the-wall establishment it may be, but its happy hour is, by far, one of the best in the area. On weekdays, happy hour runs all day (except Fridays, when it ends at 9pm), with standard house pours and bottled beers at $8, draft beers at $6 per glass, Stolichnaya vodka and Clan Gold whiskey at $98 per bottle, and a beer bucket of five bottles at $35. Ladies enjoy free flow of champagne, wines and vodka mixes all night on Wednesdays and Saturdays.
Colombo Restaurant
It might not be new, but it still has the best view on the Boat Quay strip from its fifth floor, rooftop spot, as well some of the most authentic Sri Lankan cuisine (think crispy onion-and-chickpea-flour fritters, hearty, mouth-numbing lamb dishes, and cheese-stuffed naan) in Singapore. Make sure you call ahead to reserve seats.
Heirloom Gallery
A must if you’re a serious timepiece collector. Owner Shawn Tan opened his shop here 10 years ago and continues to attract a following for his collection of rare vintage wrist and pocket watches dating from the 1900s. Highlights include supremely hard-to-find Rolex and Cartier pieces, and rarer brands like Germany’s A. Lange & Söhne. Prices are $600-25,000.
Hom Yoga
Bit of a buzz about these folks right now, with their new outlet just opened at Orchard. Here, you can ease into a variety of hot yoga styles, including Hot Yang, Hot Hatha and Hot Flow. Eco-conscious yogis will also appreciate the use of energy-efficient lighting, a filtered water fountain and eco-friendly cleaning products in the studio.
The Juban Stand
If you love Tokyo’s popular tachinomiya, or standing bars, this new watering hole with the same concept is a definite go-to. While not completely chairless (30 bar stools line the walls and outdoor patio), the minimalist, open interior lets people move around and mingle freely in the 1,000 sq. ft. space. Drinks are decidedly Japanese-focused, too, with beers like Asahi ($10 a pint), as well as a range of sake, umeshu, shochu and Japanese Nikka whiskey (from $7 per shot/glass).
Check out our review of new bar Fern & Kiwi.
Mad Dog Bistro & Bar
This recent arrival to Boat Quay features a casual, upbeat vibe and an Italian-fusion menu with signatures like beer battered fish and chips ($21.50) and Mad Dog Smoked Duck ($19.90). Choose from a wide selection of wines to go along with your mains, such as the Chateau Laffitte Laujac 2005 ($95 per bottle) while you’re here.
Nothing But Green
One of the latest organic joints in town, this opened in May. While its outlet at Tanglin Shopping Centre carries only organic retail products, the café here is slowly packing the office crowd in with a small but delectable range of organic food. The affordable set lunch at $12 gets you an appetizer, a main and a drink (choose from a mix of sandwiches or rice dishes), or try the “Spize Up My Life” curry chicken stew ($10.90) for something a little heartier.
PIMABS
This atelier by owner and designer Leslie Chia has been drawing in the likes of Dick Lee ever since 2004 with an exclusive range of custom shirts and jackets (yes, even before the recent preppy look actually took off). Chia customizes each piece based on his own ready-made collection, with suits from $1,500 upwards and shirts $300 upwards.
Ramen Bar Suzuki
While the ambiance at this unassuming, new 30-seater joint is nothing to shout about, the ramen is some of the best we’ve tried. Specialties include tsuke-men with tonkotsu soup ($14.90), which is limited to just 10 servings a day and only available during dinner service. Hakata-style Jet Black Tonkotsu Ramen ($16.20) is another highlight: the addition of squid ink, fried garlic and black miso make this a unique show-stopper.
Toni & Guy Essensuals
For a quickie hair fix, head to the latest Toni & Guy outlet, which opened in February. Style director Clement Lim charges $70 for a stylish rework of your coiffure while a regular cut is just $35. You can also go for the scalp treatments ($65)—popular among stressed-out bankers nearby—or coloring services (from $90).
Upper Crust
The organic bakery’s latest outlet is a cozy space with the same diverse range of sandwiches that’s perfect for both takeaway or eating in at one of its 50 seats. All sourdough and soft breads are handmade fresh daily, with creative sandwiches such as the special egg tofu ($8.90), roasted veggies ($7.90), and smoked salmon ($10.90)—a must for the health-conscious.
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