The humble brasserie holds a special place in our hearts. Which is why we’re excited to hear about the real French deal opening in the old Table 66 space on Tras Street before the end of the year. In the meantime though (and probably for long after), we’ll keep coming back here, even if it’s less a true brasserie and more a well-executed spin on that most nebulous of concepts: International or “Euro-inspired” fare. They’ve certainly got a great space, up in another of Dempsey’s old colonials, though being stuck inside behind the bar is a lot less fun than perching under the fans out front. Service is discreet and informed (especially when it comes to the cocktail list), if a little stretched on our visit. What then of the food? If you’re looking to find fault you could argue that the menu is a little conservative: We’d rather see more things like the ribeye steak frites ($26) than the TDB Cheese Burger ($24), which feels like an unnecessary sop to local tastes (others, even within Dempsey, do it better). So stick to your guns, guys, and give us more fantastic dishes like the pot of mussels (starter $20, main $36)—we had the rouge sauce, but we’ll be back to try the three others—and the whole roasted poussin ($28) which, with its side of cranberry sauce and creamy mashed potato, tasted like Christmas come early. Drink list is strong, too; our only complaint being the relatively limited selection of wines by the glass. Better to go hard, with their crushed and muddled cocktails, or the alcoholic coolers—our favorite, The Dempsey Gunner ($15), sees Stoli vodka added to the old classic. Pretty hard to find fault then; provided you resist your craving for truffle fries and act like you’re in Paris. This place is the closest you’ll find, for now at least, to the real thing.