The Michelin star-studded chef stopped by to officially launch his latest dining establishment, db Bistro Moderne, at Marina Bay Sands. We sat down with the man himself for some insights into what makes him tick.

In your opinion, what does it take to be a good chef?
Passion, for sure. Dedication, compassion and motivation. You’ve got to be able to be understood, but also to understand your customer and your staff. If you’re not motivated to cook, to create and work hard, it can be very painful and depressing as a chef. It’s also really important to have a good team. Without my team, I’d be nothing. But you don’t get a great team just like that; you have to build it. A good chef is also someone who knows how to cook everything. But to be a great chef takes perseverance.

As the host of After Hours with Daniel, what are some of your favorite haunts?
If I want to be pampered, I go to my friends like Eric Ripert, Jean-Georges Vongerichten and Thomas Keller. When I eat casual, I like to discover places. For quite a while now, my wife and daughter have refused to go out with me because we’d arrive at a restaurant and the chef will want to show that he can cook. They’d send so much food out that finally, my family couldn’t stand it. They said, “No way. We’re not going out with you anymore.” After that, they put their foot down and insisted on ordering a la carte. It’s good to be well-treated, but sometimes, it’s good not to be known. It’s a real pleasure to just go out, eat and drink what you like. And it doesn’t take three days to recover because the chef wanted you to taste the entire menu.

Having been born in France and after spending a long time in the US, how has that influenced your cooking?
It motivates me to bring more of France to New York. I wanted to represent both countries in db Bistro Moderne, which is a chef-driven French-American bistro. I’ve always loved burgers and I wanted to represent America and France at the same time, so that’s how the db burger was born. I’m a big proponent of American food and culture. It’s like here, food is part of life.

You have been in the industry for a long time and seen it through its metamorphosis. What would you like to see more of?
I want to see more identity and authenticity, because food is about memory. You remember the dishes you enjoyed when you were young and look for a chance to have dishes that allow you to experience the same emotion and connection. We create dishes all the time, but the ones we are remembered for which make people come back, are the ones that are simple and recreate an emotional experience. I’m at an age where I’ve been cooking for more than 40 years and I’m still proving everyday who I am. So when I see young chefs, I just want to wish them well, because it’s not easy to get to and stay at the top.

 

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MBS' New Eateries; Barossa Opens 2nd Outlet

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I’m not much of a gambler (it’s not in my blood), but I’ve been to the IRs more times than I can count on my fingers and toes, not that I’m complaining. This time, it was for a tête-à-tête with charming celebrity chef Daniel Boulud (read the interview here).

Topics: 
restaurants
Author: 
Jalean Wong
Issue Date: 
2011 Jan 13 - 23:00
PullQoute: 

I’m not much of a gambler (it’s not in my blood), but I’ve been to the IRs more times than I can count on my fingers and toes, not that I’m complaining.

Images: 

We judge the best signature cocktails in town.

The revival of cocktail culture in Singapore has been a long time coming, with top notch bars such as Tippling Club and (the presently-shuttered) Klee upping the ante. With small, artisanal joints such as Bar Stories and Néktar also making their presence felt, we figure it’s time to put the various signature concoctions to the test. It wasn’t easy choosing one over another, but boy, was it fun.

1st Bitter Chocolate Martini
Find it at: Néktar  Annex Bldg., 31 Scotts Rd., 6836-9185.
The drink: After a most heated debate, we finally settled on this as our favorite. Fill a long glass with ice cubes, then take an ounce of Heavy Water vodka from Sweden, throw in another ounce of white crème de cacao, and top it all up with just a light trickle of crème de menthe. Stir briefly, then strain into a martini glass and leave unadorned. Sounds simple you say? Perhaps. But the end result is a crystal clear, colorless liquid that looks just like water and tastes amazing. The ingredients and preparation may be understated and straightforward, but the creamy texture on the palate (without the use of any dairy), a hint of chocolate and the subtle lingering peppermint aftertaste culminates in a smooth, harmonious drink that’s neither too strong nor too sweet. Don’t trust its seemingly harmless nature, this one’ll sneak up on you. Let’s just say that if we were on a date with this baby, someone would be getting real lucky tonight.
Damage: $20
Potency: 4/5
Pair it with: A sliver of 55 percent Valrhona chocolate. Be real nice to the boys behind the bar, and they just might be persuaded to dig into their secret stash of dark choc.

2nd MO Prague—Monastery Smoky Martini
Find it at: Axis, 4/F Mandarin Oriental Singapore, 5 Raffles Ave., 6885-3098.
The drink: Served in a cocktail glass, this golden straw-hued concoction appears innocent enough. With equal parts Tanqueray gin to Scottish Laphroaig single malt Scotch whisky, it’s finished with French Noilly Prat dry vermouth and garnished with a lemon twist. We can safely say this is a real man’s drink. It assaults your nose with its pungent aroma, then socks you in the mouth with its smoky flavor and alcoholic body, before burning its way down your esophagus and finally punching you in the gut. As unpleasant as that may sound, the distinct herbal flavor of the Noilly Prat furnishes the drink with an added level of depth and complexity that’s most inviting. So man up and drink it down. But have yourself a few of these, and we can guarantee blurred recollection as your souvenir the next day.
Damage: $20
Potency: 5/5
Pair it with: All your hairy-chested mates. See who can guzzle down the most of these heavy hitters before keeling over.

3rd The Tom Yum
Find it at: Loof, #03-07 Odeon Towers Extension Rooftop, 331 North Bridge Rd., 6338-8035.
The drink: Inspired by the quintessential Thai soup, this concoction is a bold and playful combination of vodka infused with tom yum spices, pierced with citrusy lime juice and accentuated by coconut liqueur. The large red chili that straddles the glass announces the heat and spice, which screams at you immediately as you sip it up a straw. A refreshing drink that’s an interplay of sour and spicy layers, what really gives this its unique taste is the tropical coconutty note at the end that makes for a clean, rounded finish. We can think of few things that we’d rather drink when we’re hungry. If the concept of a liquid diet speaks to you, then this intriguing potion will really tickle your palate.
Damage: $18
Potency: 2/5
Pair it with: A nice patio and a killer view.

4th Rosemary Tales
Find it at: Bar Stories 2/F, 57A Haji Lane, 6298-0838.
The drink: Created by mixologist-owner Ethan Leong, this is quite a stiff tipple that’s heavy on the good stuff (we really appreciate the use of good vodka and gin), with the integration of some simple syrup and a liberal splosh of tangy fresh-squeezed lemon juice for a serious zing. All that premium liquor is shaken up with ice, and we believe the true X-factor is due to the addition of a fresh, quickly flamed sprig of rosemary that heightens the sweet, sour and fragrant herbaceous notes for a light yet lethal alcoholic beverage.
Damage: $20
Potency: 3/5
Pair it with: A hot date, who appreciates quality, bespoke cocktails and witty conversation.

5th Tropical Chocolate Martini
Find it at: martini bar@mezza9 Mezzanine Level, Grand Hyatt Singapore, 10 Scotts Rd., 6738-1234.
The drink: This ain’t the strongest kicker on the block, but it’s undoubtedly one of the most drinkable and delicious. The acidic bite of fresh pineapple and lime juice, along with Bols triple sec, permeates the chocolatey richness of Bols Crème de Cacao White. But that’s not all. It’s brought together by the lightest spritz of falernum tincture (made from cinnamon, cloves and cardamom pods), with smooth Imperia vodka as its alcoholic base. Just a small sip reveals a complex tropical flavor, rife with lashings of cacao and spices. A real crowd pleaser, this is one for the ladies. But don’t write it off as a lightweight, this one will hit you when you least expect it.
Damage: $17
Potency: 2/5
Pair it with: Close friends who enjoy a mean drink and happy hour.
 

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What you need:

  • Orange zest
  • Mint leaves (to taste)
  • 15ml spiced syrup
  • 15ml lemon juice
  • 40ml freshly brewed, cooled tea (such as English Breakfast or Earl Grey)
  • 50ml Ron Zacapa rum
  • Handful of ice

Spice Syrup: 

  • Cane sugar
  • Cloves
  • Allspice
  • Boil spices in 2 parts cane sugar to 1 part water till sugar has dissolved, allow to cool. Then store in the fridge.

Method:

  1. Shake well and strain into a cocktail glass.
  2. Garnish with mint leaves.

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The culinary maestro was in town to introduce the new seasonal menu at his restaurant kunio tokuoka at Resorts World Sentosa, as well as teach a Chef Signatures master class. He shared what he’s learnt with us.

How does the Singaporean palate differ from the Japanese one?
I am still learning about Singapore and the local cuisine as I haven’t had a lot of free time to explore Singapore yet. As for the Singaporean palate, I’m learning about that on an experience by experience basis. In general, I’ve had to make the flavors stronger for my Singaporean guests.

Do you often experiment with different temperatures in your cooking?
I have a keen interest in the molecular structure of ingredients and how the application of heat affects it. As such, I am still looking to find the perfect temperature to achieve the heightening of flavor to the ultimate point, which involves manipulating naturally-occurring glutamic acid and inosinic acid in katsu and konbu, which I use to cook fish, meat and vegetables.

In your opinion, what is the best and most effective technique in enhancing umami?
The original meaning of umami is flavor. However, umami is also the word chosen to represent the fifth sense. Many people think the fifth sense is spicy, but spicy is a stimulant and not a sense. Scientists agree the fifth sense is umami. Both katsu and konbu have naturally occurring glutamic acid and inosinic acid, but the combination of the acids actually heightens umami by eight times. As an example, generally caviar is washed in salted water. However, I wash my own caviar not only in salt water but also in konbu dashi to enhance the flavor. 

How do you gauge a chef’s skill?
Taste is important but the most important thing to measure is guest satisfaction. If your guests are happy and satisfied, I believe that is the sign of great skill in a chef.

 

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Kunio Tokuoka's New Kaiseki Menu; New Froyo Stores

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The very short list of things I’ve resolved to do for 2011 is to eat shamelessly, drink endlessly and most importantly, spend more time with loved ones. It’s looking good so far as I’ve already had a chance to catch up with some of my favorite Sydneysiders, while pigging out at Restaurant Ember. A good mate of mine polished off two portions of chef Ng’s crispy homemade tofu with a divine foie gras mirin sauce ($16)—I almost didn’t get a bite.

Topics: 
restaurants
Author: 
Jalean Wong
Issue Date: 
2011 Jan 6 - 23:00
PullQoute: 

The very short list of things I’ve resolved to do for 2011 is to eat shamelessly, drink endlessly and most importantly, spend more time with loved ones.

Images: 

We help you start the New Year off right.

After the haze of boozing, partying and feasting has subsided a little, we often find ourselves wishing we hadn’t eaten quite as much as we did (although it always seems like a good idea at the time). This year, we decided to seek out a few wholesome alternatives to get us back on track. We can’t promise that they’ll help you detox or lose weight (we reckon it’s going to take a lot more than that), but these places should at least help you in the right direction.

The Diet Butler
#02-07, 10 Winstedt Rd., 6733-3250.
The brainchild of Owen Chong, this tidy little café opened late last year. Owen champions the philosophy that healthy food can still be tasty, and their menu certainly affirms that. They even have a nutrition consultant, Derrick Ong, on board. Of their salads, the blue cheese, pear and walnut ($9) and mango, sautéed shrimp and cherry tomatoes with couscous ($12) get our vote. The carrot, potato and leek soup ($6) is also a satisfying belly-warmer. For those desiring something more substantial, the oven roasted pork loin with turnips and pineapples in homemade apple sauce ($12), grilled dory with herb and lime butter (also $12) and risotto with basil, spinach, and scallops ($18) make for a filling meal that doesn’t leave you feeling uncomfortably full after. As an added bonus, they also do deliveries (for a nominal fee), so you can get their grub sent right to your doorstep.

The Green Bar
#01-16/17 Hitachi Towers, 16 Collyer Quay, 6493-6948. 
When we first discovered The Green Bar, we knew they’d be a success with their truly scrumptious salads and convenient location in the CBD. While salads aren’t the only option when you want to eat healthy, this place does a great job of convincing you to look no further. Owner Ca-ryn Lim ensures that your greens are cold, crisp and fresh, with a generous serving of toppings and dressed to impress. One of their more recent additions, Wicked Strawberry ($12.90), has really taken our fancy, loaded with heaps of strawberries, roast chicken and blue cheese. We stand by Tandoor Tandoor ($10.90)—a heaped bowl of super fresh leaves decorated with juicy chunks of tandoori chicken, cherry tomatoes, chickpeas, roasted potatoes and a divine honey yogurt dressing.

Heart Bistro
#B1-08/09/10C Palais Renaissance, 390 Orchard Rd., 6737-2148.
This is a restaurant for health-conscious individuals who want scrumptious food that doesn’t compromise on taste. The fact that it’s an international menu with Asian influences is refreshing, displayed in dishes such as pickled tea leaves with ripened tomatoes and mung beans ($12), poached seafood in a light spicy lemongrass broth with buckwheat soba ($24) and roasted black cod with wild mushrooms, aged balsamic and apple grape coulis ($28). Other standouts include marinated sashimi poke ($14), sesame-crusted Chilean sea bass with crab bisque ($28) and braised beef cheek ($34). Their range of freshly-squeezed juices (all $7) come in interesting combinations, such as Botox (watermelon, red grapes and mint) Calm-Me-Down (papaya, pineapple and orange) and Detox (red grapes, apples and Chinese pear).

Onaka @ Body With Soul
44 Rochester Park, 6778-0246.
Tucked away in Rochester Park, this laidback café is a great find for health-conscious folks. Onaka, short for Optimum Nutrition and Kitchen Arts, emphasizes the achievement of optimal health through nutrition. We’re still not entirely sold on all that, but we do enjoy their dairy-free smoothies. We recommend the yummy Omega Avocado ($6.50) and antioxidant summer berries power smoothie (also $6.50), a truly gratifying blend of mixed berries, bananas, organic rice milk and seed mix. Or pick from their range of vegetable juices (from $5) such as Morning After (apple, celery and ginger) and Green Peace (green apple, cabbage and celery). Of course, you can’t just rely on a liquid diet. Their low GI (glycemic index) grilled tofu salad ($9.50) is an incredibly substantial option, and tasty to boot. If you’re not in the mood for a salad, the Carribean burger ($9.50) consists of chipotle ketchup and a black bean and brown rice vegetable patty sandwiched between a multigrain bun, served with garbanzo bean mash. They also deliver, so no more excuses.

PiNK Dining & Bar
4 Craig Rd., 6222-5007.
Brought to you by the folks behind PiNK Nutrideli (a food and juice bar for gym-goers in the CBD), this is a more formal eatery that’s governed by the same health-conscious philosophy as that of their original eatery. We recommend Vietnamese rolls ($3.95), with fresh prawns and chilled crunchy carrots and lettuce, and particularly the oven baked white dory ($12.90), salad and rice included. The entire dish’s caloric count comes in at a mere 394. The brown rice is a dream, interspersed with briny olive bits; we could eat mountains of the stuff. The roasted chicken with shrooms and pepper sauce ($9.90) is also a winner. For those with a sweet tooth and a staunch refusal to give up desserts, they even have several low-fat and low-sugar choices such as a butterless & flourless brownie ($4.95). And if you feel even a twinge of guilt, you can hang about for a spot of salsa dancing every Monday and Wednesday night.

Super Secret Weapon
To start your day on exactly the right note, we recommend LINS Smoodees’ blended drinks, particularly Popeye and Peter Pan (made from 30-60gm and 60-90gm of greens respectively). These dairy-free smoothies are blended with organic leafy vegetables, fruits and filtered alkaline water, and can be delivered to your home or office every morning (from $7.90). Call 9007-8233 or log on to linssmoodees.com for details.

 

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I-S reflects on our island’s constantly evolving dining landscape.

For a long time, both locally and globally, French fare has been perceived to lord over other cuisines as the pinnacle of culinary excellence. Fortunately, perceptions are changing as people have started looking to other cooking styles.

The first half of the year saw Mexican joints springing up, with the likes of Casa Latina, Spruce Taqueria and Tomatillos—the latter two fashioned with fuss-free street grub in mind (reminding us that some of the best Mexican we’ve ever had was off a cart on the streets, often eaten standing up).

However, the revenge of the Spanish was swift—presenting itself in restaurants such as The Club Tapas, Octapas Spanish Tapas Bar, Sabroso Tapas Wine Bar and Don Quijote Spanish Restaurant’s Dempsey outlet, and not forgetting Santi by Michelin star-studded chef Santi Santamaria.

Moving beyond cuisine, a dining concept that has really flourished is that of communal eating. While it’s not at all unusual in Asian cuisine, when applied to Western food it certainly makes for a less typical dining experience. If you’re feeling generous, head to The Disgruntled Chef (European), Cocotte (French), Ku Dé Ta (fusion), Roast at One Rochester (European) or Stellar at 1-Altitude (international). Remember, sharing is caring.

The theme of steakhouses seems to be especially hot, with Parisian bistro L’Entrecôte, Argentinian Salta, Meatworks and Hippopotamus all setting up shop. One of the most notable openings on that front, is Wolfgang Puck’s Cut.

For those with a chronic sweet tooth, 2010 saw the arrival of even more dessert parlors. We’ll throw a few names out there just to jog your memory: Pavé, 3 Inch Sin, Dessert Ministry, Let’s Sweets and Flor Pâtisserie, not to mention the frozen yogurt craze with Swirl Art, Sogurt and Miki Yo!

Another notion that we’re hoping to see more of is guerilla dining. Things are just starting to heat up with lolla’s secret suppers, Social Candy and The Ping’s Illegal Diners Club, but only time will tell if this is going to be as big a thing as we hope.

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Asian Masters; Daniel Boulud's db Bistro Moderne

The month-long gourmet and lifestyle festival that is Asian Masters kicks off next year from Jan 3-30. Presented by American Express, it aims to showcase Asia’s culture and talents, with an incredible lineup of culinary maestros from around the region including Bobby Chinn, Otto Weibel and Justin Quek. It’s certainly something to look forward to.

Topics: 
restaurants
Author: 
Jalean Wong
Issue Date: 
2010 Dec 23 - 23:00
PullQoute: 

The month-long gourmet and lifestyle festival that is Asian Masters kicks off next year from Jan 3-30. Presented by American Express, it aims to showcase Asia’s culture and talents ...

Images: