An Italian staple still holding its own against an army of new young guns is Prego. When we went for lunch last week the place was cheek-to-jowl with corporate types tucking into no-nonsense hearty Italian fare. The décor hasn’t changed one bit, and it’s still a bright and breezy place to enjoy a long lunch, even if a bit noisy. We enjoyed the two-course business lunch consisting of oven-baked seafood pancake filled with pieces of fish, shrimp and mussels in a tasty squidink cream sauce served with parsley pesto. We followed this with a wonderfully robust and tender stewed lamb leg with olives, mixed vegetables and potatoes. From the a la carte menu the trusty old calamari with tartare dressing proved that it’s still a safe bet. The daily risotto with grilled garoupa and sun-dried tomato sauce was the perfect consistency and extremely delicious—we lapped it up. (Nonetheless, we really do question chef’s insistence that it was aborio rice; it’s a small gripe but something we’re particular about.) The other Italian litmus test, tiramisu, was big, moist, well-liquored and very satisfying—one of the best we’ve tasted around town. Throughout our visit we were served by well-trained staff who know the meaning of good knowledgeable service. Prego is still a good, no surprises standard.