We’ve been quietly holding a torch for this hole-in-the-wall Club Street joint for a while—the kind of crush that refuses to die in spite of all its obvious flaws. The place seats just eight (barely), the music playlist consists mainly of ‘90s college rock tunes, the counter staff don’t try to impress, and there’s a detectable patina of stickiness on all its surfaces. Nevertheless, we just keep coming back because it’s so much fun to mix and match its five Asian-inspired fillings and four Mexican-style vehicles. We’ve pledged undying devotion to the burrito with sesame rice and pork carnitas ($16), which seriously reminded us of retro canned pork cubes in the best possible way. The braised tofu rice bowl ($15) also had us doodling hearts and daydreaming; far from bland health food, its MSG-esque bursts of meaty umami will make vegetarians blush. Before you go too crazy, though, watch out for funky-tasting items—the tacos ($14), Mexican tomato rice ($5) and corn chips ($8) all tasted old. The feistysounding Asian slaw ($4) and Thai-style corn cup ($5) also didn’t quite deliver, and we had to smother them in Sriracha sauce. Drinks-wise, the boozy mescal mango slushie ($14) was fun to drink not absolutely to-die-for, but hey, you’re on Club Street, so it’s no biggie. You’ll either swoon or get burned (or both) here, but if you’re like us, you’ll still come back for more anyway.

Eat this at Pistola: Carnitas burrito. It's one of I-S Magazine's 50 things to eat before you die (2013).