When it comes to Korean food in this town—with trashy but addictive fried chicken wings on one side and fancy barbecue buffets on the other—Gangnaroo isn’t a big part of the conversation. The menu is a hodge-podge of just over a dozen, beer-friendly dishes. The pa jeon (seafood and onion pancake, $15) is a total bust, mostly flavorless and doughy, and the dolsot bi bimbab ($16), despite the surprisingly tender beef, isn’t hot enough to form that nice crust of burned rice we like at the bottom of the stone bowl. But it’s nevertheless a great place to have up your sleeve after a night of boozing in Boat Quay—when you are desperate to get away from the tourist-laden seafood joints, the Bollywood dance bars and the sidewalks overflowing with punters. The place couldn’t be more adorably unpretentious. Think floral plastic tablecloths and water served in cheap, colorful jugs. The service is homey and kind, and as long as you steer clear of the aforementioned pa jeon, much of the food is exactly what you want to be eating in the late evening: greasy, starchy, spicy with little finesse but lots of strong flavors. We like the comforting yuk gae jang (kimchi, vegetable and beef stew, $16), and the japchae (stir-fried potato noodles, $15), though a bit oily, is generous with the veggies and nicely redolent of sesame oil. There’s not much by way of drinks, but the $8 Hite (Korean Budweiser pretty much) goes down well. The comforting, end-of-the-night vibe is completed by fellow diners—not a boisterous drunk in sight—quietly murmuring. It’s also worth noting that the place is open at lunchtime and packs quite a crowd.