In their pre-Islam days, the Malay community in Singapore had the perfect solution: The elusive “mak andam,” or traditional makeup artist. Often a beautifully groomed elderly lady with a slender kebaya-worthy figure, dark coiffed hair and beautiful jewels, the “mak andam” was believed to have magical powers. Natasha Ali, who hired a “mak andam” to specially prepare her for her big day some years ago, describes the experience as out of this world. “It’s eerie, mystical even.” Natasha reveals that she wanted to try the services of a “mak andam” because she always remembered how astoundingly beautiful the brides she saw during her childhood were. “They had a certain presence. And when they walked past you, you’d get a waft of something floral, like jasmine,” she says. Today, Malay women still keep up appearances by mixing exotic traditions with more modern techniques.

Makeup artist and owner of L.A.B Bridal Couture (80 Haji Lane, 9685-0165), Lynn Abu Bakar, has been in the Malay bridal makeup industry for the last 11 years. “The entire process may be very taxing on the bride because she has to be tied down by the rules of the “mak andam,” who may instruct her not to leave the house for days on end, lie down on the floor while she is being made up or take nightly flower baths believed to boost the radiance on her face,” Lynn continues. As this requires time, Lynn incorporates the organic nature of the traditions into her pre-makeup treatments to suit the hectic schedule of people’s lives today. “Creams and bases with plant extracts protect the bride’s skin, especially if she has allergies. That’s one of the best benefits of traditional makeup; it has no side effects,” says Lynn. “Most Malays now are Muslim, and their religion forbids them from believing in mystical beings that can help them look more beautiful. But we do apply some of the more technical traditions; like the elaborate eyebrow shaping procedures, the use of betel nut leaves and flower petals to enhance skin radiance and the refreshing use of ice cubes before the application of makeup. Of course many of us now have upgraded to using ampoules,” admits Lynn.

Fatimah Mohsin from The Wedding Gallery (3 Jalan Kledek, 6292-4565) understands the significance of traditional Malay makeup, but she also agrees that certain rituals do not suit the tastes of some women today. Take for instance the “mak andam” ritual of chewing on betel nut leaves to redden the lips and tongue. While it achieves this to great effect, most brides now are not impressed by the scent and taste of the plant. Instead, Fatimah first applies concealer on the lips of the bride before staining them with regular lipstick. One of her clients, Nur Hafizah, firmly stands by Fatimah’s method of achieving the same quality pigment of the good ’ol days with a modern mode of application. “Most makeup artists today use liquid eyeliner but I’m not a fan. I like that the Malay way of applying bridal makeup still requires that we use the classic kohl pencil, which lasts longer and rarely smudges,” says Nur.

Further reading: tips from wedding gurus